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Tie rod ends and tubes replacement

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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 05:37 PM
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Default Tie rod ends and tubes replacement

I'm getting ready to put my front end back together and was wondering about the tie rod ends and tubes. I haven't installed the new ones yet but am I missing something when I thought I would just assemble the new ones to the same length as the ones I removed? Once the front end's all in, I'll be heading off for an alignment anyway but is that alright to assemble and fit the new tie rod ends and tubes by comparing to the old ones?

Thanks
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 05:43 PM
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That's how I've always seen it done. Unless they were WAY off....
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end. Screw the new one on the same number of turns. That will get you close enough to do an alignment.
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 10:54 PM
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the only thing to watch is that both sides are within 1 thread of each other (2 at the most) Mine were off enough that when I went to get it aligned the tech had to take one tie rod end out and adjust just that one end...

I didn't explain that very well...understand though?
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 77BuffaloVet
...understand though?
Yep, got it thanks guys. I thought that's all there was to it but then wondered if I was overlooking something. My book talks about changing the tie rod ends but not the tube
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 02:59 AM
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If all else fails, measure between front tires at the front and rear. Front (leading) edge should be 1/16" to 1/8" narrower. (With equal lenth threads).
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 09:17 AM
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I have always just set them to the same length on both sides until I have the front end assembled, then adjusted with a tape measure from there loke Bird says to get it close enough to go to alignment. The only other thing is make sure you have the same number of threads sticking out of the sleeve on both ends (it doesn't matter how many are inside the sleeve) this ensures you will have the same amount of adjustment available on both ends of the tie rod
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
...The only other thing is make sure you have the same number of threads sticking out of the sleeve on both ends (it doesn't matter how many are inside the sleeve) this ensures you will have the same amount of adjustment available on both ends of the tie rod
That's about the only thing the book does say. I'll set the new ones up the same length as the old ones but just make sure the ends have the same number of threads sticking out...
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 06:22 AM
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Default Another tie rod question

I was assembling the tie rods this morning and like a good fiitter, I referred to the book. What I found was this:




Is all that absolutely necessary? It seems like an overly complicated way of assembling some clamps
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 07:35 AM
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Its the same thing your already doing, it just looks complicated on paper. I told you about the equal thread thing and the only other thing (I didn't mention) is the clamp position, the bolt should be away from the slot in the sleeve. Note that the directions say "between these angles" not "Exactly these angles". When you get it together make sure and swing the suspention lock to lock to make sure the clamp bolts clear everything
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 07:52 AM
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The Corvette AIM describes the correct orientation of the tie rod clamps. The assembly sheet is very complete but it certainly isn't that easy to understand. About a year ago I decided to try and analyze the drawing and write a paper as to my interpretation of the specifications.

Here is a link to the paper.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...-Rev21JA06.doc

I hope that the paper makes it a bit easier to understand.

Jim
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 11:07 AM
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I'd just upgrade to the modern-style VB&P tubes. That clamping system is unnecessarily complicated in an almost Rube Goldberg-ish fashion.
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Old Feb 28, 2007 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by saudivette
I was assembling the tie rods this morning and like a good fiitter, I referred to the book. What I found was this:




Is all that absolutely necessary? It seems like an overly complicated way of assembling some clamps
Ha Ha...I studied that picture for hours and decided it made more sense upside down!!! J/k...In the end, the biggest point it pushes is to make sure the the clamps don't hit anything when you turn the wheel...at least that is what I got out of it!!!
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
The Corvette AIM describes the correct orientation of the tie rod clamps. The assembly sheet is very complete but it certainly isn't that easy to understand. About a year ago I decided to try and analyze the drawing and write a paper as to my interpretation of the specifications.

Here is a link to the paper.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...-Rev21JA06.doc

I hope that the paper makes it a bit easier to understand.

Jim
Yeah, that picture is quite confusing. But I get it now - basically, the clamp slots shouldn't be in line with the tube slots but also positioned in such a way that they don't foul anything when the steering's turned lock to lock!

Thanks guys
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by saudivette
Yeah, that picture is quite confusing. But I get it now - basically, the clamp slots shouldn't be in line with the tube slots but also positioned in such a way that they don't foul anything when the steering's turned lock to lock!

Thanks guys
http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=521

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 08:23 AM
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In a nutshell, here is a six step summary on how to position production clamps and tie rod ends according to the AIM. (You must use shop manual or AIM torque specs and cotter pins as specified for all fasteners.)

1). Production adjuster tubes have a groove on one end. Assemble the tie rod assemblies to the relay rod so that the groove is located outboard on each side. (Left hand threads outboard on each side.)
2). Tip the outer tie rod ends rearward. Tip the inner tie rod ends down.
3). The inner tie rod clamp bolts should be positioned under the tube, horizontal, with the nut rearward.
4). The outer tie rod clamp bolts should be positioned to the rear of the tube, vertical, with the nut down.
5). Locate the center of the clamps 1/2 inch from the adjuster tube ends.
6). If necessary rotate a clamp a maximum of 45 degrees either direction so that the slit in the adjuster tube is not in line with the slot in the clamp.

Jim
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bondoboy
Count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end. Screw the new one on the same number of turns. That will get you close enough to do an alignment.
Thats what I did,when I put it on the alignment rack at work it was pretty darn close to where it was before.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Shea
In a nutshell, here is a six step summary on how to position production clamps and tie rod ends according to the AIM. (You must use shop manual or AIM torque specs and cotter pins as specified for all fasteners.)

1). Production adjuster tubes have a groove on one end. Assemble the tie rod assemblies to the relay rod so that the groove is located outboard on each side. (Left hand threads outboard on each side.)
2). Tip the outer tie rod ends rearward. Tip the inner tie rod ends down.
3). The inner tie rod clamp bolts should be positioned under the tube, horizontal, with the nut rearward.
4). The outer tie rod clamp bolts should be positioned to the rear of the tube, vertical, with the nut down.
5). Locate the center of the clamps 1/2 inch from the adjuster tube ends.
6). If necessary rotate a clamp a maximum of 45 degrees either direction so that the slit in the adjuster tube is not in line with the slot in the clamp.

Jim

Thanks Jim, that's perfect
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