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I took the Corvette out for a drive today. I was about a mile from the house when the engine began to have an intermittent misfire, and the tach started to jump. I turned around an went back to the house.
My first thought was a lose coil feed wire, but when I popped the hood I heard a strange rhythmic electrical chirping noise coming from the remote coil/distributor area.
I found a crack in the distributor cap near the coil tower when I stuck my finger on the top of the cap to see if it felt like it was being hit by the rotor (the visible spark jumped 1/2 inch).
I changed the cap and rotor, and still had the jumping tach, and the electrical chirp. I started listening with a piece of rubber hose, and could hear the chirp coming from the coil in the tach lead connection area in time with the jumping tach.
I'll change the coil in the morning, but this experiance is a first for me. I have never heard a coil make any noise in all my 15+ years of turning wrenches.
YES, if you take a HEI outta the car, and hook it up to 12 volts, clipped across a battery....and spin the shaft, looking out for the cap leads, you will hear a distinct clunk from the coil for every pulse......
second off, check your grounding on that, sometimes forgetting the ground strap/clip/wire off the coil frame to that center terminal on the 3 wire plug and the coil then arcs to the bat or tach terminal with HV....see the burn marks.....
another thing to watch for is the crimped leads on the HV coil...the red and yellow/white lead...they are not soldered from the factory, but crimped right through the formvar of the copper wire, can be a lousey connection...caught one some years ago, pants down/proved it...and soldered it for several years use outta that coil....
YES, if you take a HEI outta the car, and hook it up to 12 volts, clipped across a battery....and spin the shaft, looking out for the cap leads, you will hear a distinct clunk from the coil for every pulse......
second off, check your grounding on that, sometimes forgetting the ground strap/clip/wire off the coil frame to that center terminal on the 3 wire plug and the coil then arcs to the bat or tach terminal with HV....see the burn marks.....
another thing to watch for is the crimped leads on the HV coil...the red and yellow/white lead...they are not soldered from the factory, but crimped right through the formvar of the copper wire, can be a lousey connection...caught one some years ago, pants down/proved it...and soldered it for several years use outta that coil....
I solder all them now....
This was a first for me. The noise coming from the remote coil was loud enough that it could be heard over the side pipes when the hood was up. It was a sound like the crack of a high voltage arc.inside the coil itself.
I just found it strange that this noise is the sign that the coil was begining to fail. Usually they just leak oil, or don't produce a spark.
OH, you got a small cap HEI, I missed that, my comments are not valid then....sorry....yeh, an arcing inside that external type coil is terminal failure....but how do you know it's clunking or an actual sound of an electronic arc?? if you sure ti's a high freq sound of a arc...well, time for a new coil....IMO....damn surely try one anyway....
OH, you got a small cap HEI, I missed that, my comments are not valid then....sorry....yeh, an arcing inside that external type coil is terminal failure....but how do you know it's clunking or an actual sound of an electronic arc?? if you sure ti's a high freq sound of a arc...well, time for a new coil....IMO....damn surely try one anyway....
I listened around with a piece of rubber hose to find the noise. What I could hear through the hose was like the crack of the high voltage arc when you have a spark plug wire off a plug every time the coil would fire. When I first heard the noise I was so loud I thought the rotor was hitting the inside of the cap because it was in rythm with the engine. At least I know what is the problem. Time to spend $40.oo on a new coil.
I was able to get the coil swapped out this afternoon. The tach works correctly now. The noise is gone also, and I only spent $15.oo instead of $40.oo since they were out of the more expensive coil. The car is running better also. The intermittent trouble code #43 ( ESC fault ) that I would get when I was hard on the accelerator didn't rear its head during the test drive. So the problem is solved, and I'm Happy with the car again.