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The proper torque spec should do the trick, but add the blue Loctite mentioned previously, it allows for easier removal than the more permanent red Loctite.
I would not use any, should have lock washers and considering the rubber compression when tightened the bolts won't back-out.
Originally Posted by 82collectorshark
The proper torque spec should do the trick, but add the blue Loctite mentioned previously, it allows for easier removal than the more permanent red Loctite.
One of mine was missing when I pulled them out and another one was loose! I've read quite a few posts with people saying that the bolts loosened without using Loctite. Plus, I'm using poly...
One of mine was missing when I pulled them out and another one was loose! I've read quite a few posts with people saying that the bolts loosened without using Loctite. Plus, I'm using poly...
When I was doing some inspections last season I found one of mine backed out a couple threads, I used the blue & new lock washers for peace of mind.
I too used poly bushings, and two of my bolts loosened up. I later went back and used blue loctite, Oh yeah I had to replace the lock washers as they broke when re torqueing
Not very familiar with all of the numbers mentioned above, But I would suggest #262 threadlocker or blue #242 thread locker. These are the two most popular numbers I use on some of the parts I make in my machine shop.
use the blue gel loctite... works like a charm and doesnt drip off....... i've had tuff times trying to unloosen bolts fter i used that stuff.....put it on everything.....
Use the red. If you put in poly, they are going to out live you.
Yep, using poly and I finally managed to track down a shop that sold Loctite so I've gone with the #262. It has (so the blurb says) high strength and is suited for areas of high vibration and #5 or #8 bolts. Sounds like it was designed with control arm bolts in mind...
Thanks again guys
Last edited by saudivette; Mar 18, 2007 at 12:07 PM.
Problem with the bolts loosening is the Poly Bushings don't have serrations on the inner sleeve like the OEM bushings. The serrations bottom on the control arm shaft and washer then act to lock the inner sleeve/shaft and washer assembly from rotating. Anyone running Poly should use 271 "Red" locktite and check bolts frequently.
Just to clarify for those not familiar.
Info taken from bottle labels.
Loctite # 242 (Blue...Removable Strength)
Loctite # 262 (Red...Permanent Strength)
Problem with the bolts loosening is the Poly Bushings don't have serrations on the inner sleeve like the OEM bushings. The serrations bottom on the control arm shaft and washer then act to lock the inner sleeve/shaft and washer assembly from rotating. Anyone running Poly should use 271 "Red" locktite and check bolts frequently.
Which poly bushings are you talking about? I think my ES sleeves had the serrations, but it's been a while since I assembled them. I might pull them apart again and use a higher-strength Loctite, though.
I think it'll be fine with #262 Loctite, a split washer and 50 ft. lbs. of torque. I can always put a small dollop of tell-tale paint on the bolt head and washer to show any movement...