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New Brake Caliper problem

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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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From: Austin Tx
Default New Brake Caliper problem

Just replaced the RR brake caliper. Trying to bleed the brakes, but no fluid is coming out when my partner pumps the brakes.just a few drops, then nothing, no bubbles, no fluid, no pressure. When I remove the conn at the line at the frame, fluid is just dripping out, but when partner pumps, nothing coming out except a trickle. What is going on?
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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Check for collapsed lines of any kind.

Jack up the rear, and check to see if the LR caliper has stopping force when the pedal is pressed. If not, there may be a blockage on the rear circuit somewhere.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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How long did you let it sit with the bleeder screw open? After replacing the caliper, you need to let it gravity bleed first, which can take some time.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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I'll check the LR. I forgot and left the cover off the MC when we were pumping but it never ran dry. Could I have gotten air in the MC?
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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Did you fill the caliper before you bolted it on?

There is a lot of fluid in a caliper and if you are relying on the fluid flow from the MC then it will take awhile to get fluid flow started from a bleeder.

Before I put the caliper on the car, I have a very small funnel that will fit the inlet pipe port. Holding the caliper vertical (in a vice) I poor fluid into the funnel and work the pistons back and forth. You can really fill the caliper this way and when you attach the hard line, there is very little bleeding necessary. Just let it gravity bleed and then go drive.

Usually results in a very firm pedal.

HTH

Bob
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gage
I'll check the LR. I forgot and left the cover off the MC when we were pumping but it never ran dry. Could I have gotten air in the MC?
It should not have gotten any air in it if the fluid stayed above the brake lines leaving the MC. If the level dropped below that, then you probably took in some air.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 11:16 PM
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the fronts are not getting hardly any fluid out either. The brakes were fine until on caliper broke, now I'm not getting any pedal and no fluid anywhere....fluid looks dirty too, it was clear before
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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I took the MC out and put it on a vice. Began bench bleeding (never done this before) As I push the bore in with screwdriver, awful lot of air coming out, a little fluid. how did all this air get in?
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Gage
I took the MC out and put it on a vice. Began bench bleeding (never done this before) As I push the bore in with screwdriver, awful lot of air coming out, a little fluid. how did all this air get in?

You did cycle the fluid through with a pair of nipples and some plastic tubing right?

All that air is in the bore, where the two front to back pistons are. One front and one back. They both will have air and that's what you're pushing out.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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From: Austin Tx
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no, I need to go to auto parts store to get some tubing. While I am there I'm just going to get a new MC since this one is old and they are cheap anyway.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Gage
no, I need to go to auto parts store to get some tubing. While I am there I'm just going to get a new MC since this one is old and they are cheap anyway.

Make sure they give you the bench bleeder kit. They have them and even some new masters come with them.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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replaced master cylinder, bled the brakes again, now i have a solid pedal and great brakes...I guess the mc went out on me and was sucking air. Nice thing is the new mc came with bleeder screws so i don't have to remove it from the car to bleed it.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:06 AM
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I had a similar problem with my original rear calipers...turned out they were jammed full of rust particles.

Glad ya got it fixed...safety is the most important thing.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Glad ya got it fixed...safety is the most important thing.

The plungers inside, or pistons, if not sealed right, can let all kinds of air get by. Glad to hear it's all good now.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:15 AM
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I would follow the GM factrory bleed sequence. I have read where the proportioning valve will allow a large bubble to just move back and forth continually if not bled properly. I think if you go through and bleed them in the correct sequence the air will push out. If you had a restriction I would think after bleeding you would still get a hard pedal, but a pull when braking due to inaction of the brake. The other thing could be is that you are sucking air in from someonwhere on a pedal depression and release. If you replaced hoses or lines check all of the fittings.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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The two common bleed sequences are always rear first.

Driver Rear
Passenger Rear
Passenger Front
Driver Front

Or

Passenger Rear
Driver Rear
Passenger Front
Driver Front
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