Finished disassembling the engine tonight.. Pulled out the crank and will bring it to the machine shop next week.. I'll also bring the rod that spun the bearing to the machine shop to have it checked and resized.
I'm planning on having the crank polished at the mains and cut at the rods and will use oversized rod bearings but standard size main bearings.

Here are the components that will go to the machine shop:



Here are all the other components removed from the engine:







The next step will be to clean the block from any debris etc. from the spun bearing. Once I'll get the crank and rod back from the machine shop, I'll start re-assembling the engine. Am I forgetting anything?
I'll still have to get all the correct torque specs for all components that have to be torqued when re-assembling..

I'll still have to decide on which heads to go with for the rebuild as my old heads will be used on my new build.. I'm thinking in getting RHS Heads with 235cc intake runners. Those are supposed to be the best flowing 23 degree heads out of the box. I'll do some porting/matching before installing them.

 

If that 406 is going to be a street motor the 235 is too big. Take a look at the new AFR 195's (I think that is the one am talking about). I am not a small block guy but AFR has a new head out that is killer for a street /strip car. I saw a build on another forum where they made 600 hp with a pump gas 383.

 

The 195s Eliminators would be a good head for the street. A lot depends on what you want from the street motor. Cam choice will be a big part also. Everything else looks pretty good in the motor.
I hope that is not the kitchen floor you are working on.

 

Well, the cam is pretty big and needs heads that flow good.. I'll probably end up making it a race engine with similar specs as the previous build and either sell it ot keep it as spare engine..
I'll probably go with 11.6 : 1 compression (64 cc heads) which works good with the cam...

 

Don't let the runner size fool you. Check the flow numbers!

 

I did check and the flow numbers of the RHS 235cc heads are better than any other out of the box 23 degree heads..

 

On a street motor velocity is at least as important as flow #'s.

 

Hey I agree with John . Don't get caught up in the flow numbers game w/o knowing velocity . Port v. is very important .

 

It won't be a street motor!

 

Sorry Oliver, I missed that.

 

Hey Olivier,

What crank and rods are u running in that? Just curious. Also, I am needing an oil pan that can work with a 4" stroke and stock location starter, any recommendations on that?

What kind of times are you running with that motor, looks like you hook up well, Tom's IRS or stock?

 

AFR 195 Competition ported head flows 140 CFM intake and 115 CFM exhaust @ .200 lift. 300 CFM intake and 225 CFM exhaust @ .600 lift with great port velocity. (out of the box 23 degree head). Those huge exhaust flow numbers work great with nitrous as does the higher port velocity to properly atomize the A/F mix and blend with the F/NO2 mix!

 

Those 235 heads do not flow real well for something that size. My old AFR 190 heads flow pretty much the same numbers right to the .500 lift. Over 500 the 235s flow a little better. If you got the Eliminator 195s they flow way better than my 190s they would be enough. The 210 Eliminator would be just about right for a race 406. I would expect a 235 size head to flow way bigger than those numbers. Are the 235s priced good?

 

I can get a fully assembled set of heads with .700 lift springs for $1075 and $1395 with roller rockers, stud girdles and fabricated valve covers..
I will do some extensive porting to those heads and match the intake runners to 1206 gasket and I'll also do some exhaust porting and smooth out all accessible parts of the runners etc...

 

My initial thought was to make it a street motor for the yellow Vette but if I'll put a 500+ HP engine into the yellow car, I'll have to spend much more $$ upgrades and I really want to keep the yellow '68 a street car and therefore the new build will either be a spare engine or I'll sell it after I'll have the engine dyno tested..

 

Oliver......don't forget to at the very least take the oil pump apart and check for shrapnel. No nicks or scratches on gears, housing or cover.

Better to replace it.

Make sure to pull all the galley plugs out and pressure wash down them to get junk out.

The mains look pretty decent in that picture from what I can see. Do the lower halves look good? Any detonation would show up there possibly.

Wash cam, lifters and rockers EXTREMELY well. Roller lifters don't like fuzzy metal running around in them. Clean out the bypass in your oil filter adapter...I think you said it wasn't plugged. Really spend time blowing through min bearing oil feed holes since they come from cam bearings. Easy for debris to be trapped back up there and come back to haunt you later. Actually best to pull cam bearings to clean and make sure when debris goes through motor. Bearings are $15-20 and a little labor.

I'm having a hard time figuring out this plan for the heads. Before I would keep the current heads for the new bad boy motor, AND buy a new set of heads for the old motor....I'd just stick this motor back together as is and go get some REAL KILLER 18* or whatever heads to go on the new motor. Gotta be at least 100 HP in some better stuff. Put the money toward better/faster parts instead of just buying more of the same. Look around and get some SB2 heads or something like that.


JIM

 

3.75 stroke Eagle Crank and 6 inch Eagle rods. Check
http://www.summitracing.com and do a search on oil pan and they have plenty of pans and they specify what kind of stroke those pans clear.
With the engine that I'm rebuilding, I ran a best of 10.07 on a 100 shot of spray and a best of 10.35 on engine. 60' times are in the 1.39 - 1.42 range. I'm using Tom's IRS setup (differential and axle/half shaft kit with 1480 series u-joints).
I'm having a 447 ci small block built with 14.5 : 1 compression and a 250 shot of nitrous (fogger) which should get me into 8's on spray and 9's on engine.

 

well, the ported heads are $$$.. I will do some extensive porting on those heads and they'll flow a lot more than they do out of the box. I won't buy any ported heads as I can do the porting myself.. I rather spend a few days porting than spending $1k more to buy ported heads.. Porting is very simple (aluminum) but time consuming..

 

I'll definetely go through the pump.. The mains show minimal wear but I'll replace all main bearing anyways just to be on the save side. Everything will be cleaned before re-assembly.. I won't pull the cam bearings as I doubt that I can re-install them myself..
I thought about going with 18 degree heads but it's just not in my budget right now.. A nice set of 18 degree heads with titanium valves and shaft rockers + intake will cost me at least $3k USED and I'll have to spend another $1000 - $1500 for headers.. It's much cheaper to make the additional power to run 8's with nitrous.. If I want more power, I'll just go with a bigger shot of spray for a lot less money.. My engine internals on the new engine will easily hold up to 1200+ HP (race block with Callies crank and rods etc...)

 

Oliver.....are you serious about porting the heads ?? Not busting on you, but do you know anything about porting heads? It is NOT just simply removing aluminum. There is absolutely a science to it