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I just finnished installing the new calipers on my car and im having trouble getting the brakes to bleed.
How much fluid does it take? I just started on the left rear inside and i have already sucked 32 oz of brake fluid thru with my M vac. and im still getting air
Im sucking thru speed bleeders if that matters?
Could there be something wrong with the master cylinder? I checked all my line connections and everything is tight.
any brake issues prior to the caliper replacement? is the brake master also new and was it bench bleed? i have tried manual bleeding and a mighty vac without good sucess.
the motive pressure bleeder is the tool of choice when bleeding brakes on a C3
Hey....check this out before you buy more equipment......I just replaced my pads last week, and ran into an interesting issue with the bleed fittings. I was using a vacuum and collector jar to do the job, since I was alone at the time.....the fronts went fine. When I got to the first rear fitting, it sucked air as so as it was cracked open!! It was not air in the system, but pulling air from around the threads of the device. SO....I had to rig up a quick bar to fit between the brake petal and seat bottom. It was long enough to hold petal to floor after pumping. Needless to say, I may many trips back and forth to pump it up.....but in the end, it worked out great. No squeal, killer brakes, gotta love it.
I'm on my Sunday afternoon rant, it's the only time I get on the net.
I had to replace the calipers on ours.(80) We had a problem with pump up. We (my wife and I) just kept at it (pump the brake till it tops out, bleed, repump), got all of the air out of it, and everything is fine.
Had the same problem on my '75 some years ago. Same thing. We just had to stay with it and get the air out. Seems Vettes have a harder problem with brake bleed. Hope this helps.
Are you bleeding brakes because of system malfunction or normal maintenance? I ask this because you may only have a problem with your warning light indicator switch or what is often mistakenly referred to as the proportioning valve. If this switch has internally shifted to illuminate dash warning light then your system pressure will remain misdirected until such time as this switch has been recentered.
You are probably sucking air from the bleeder screw threads. I went through this also....The Mighty Vac will work to suck the fluid through the lines OK, but now you must prressure bleed it, whether by peddle-pumping or pressure bleeder, to get the last bits of air out. It just won't work for the final 5% with a vacuum pump.
You're just gonna have to go in the house, hang your head, and with your best soulful look, say "Honey, darling, could you please come help me?" Athough if she knows much about how long brake bleeding takes, you'll probably have to promise her several dinners at a nice restaurant to bribe her into helping......
John
PS. A power bleeder is on my Christmas list, too.
It's a real pain to bleed dry calipers.
a pressure bleeder sure helps. also I like to bang on the calipers with a plastic mallet to shake the bubbles loose.
Also make sure you bench bleed the MC before putting it on!
If you got the time, gravity bleeding works. Even using the pump I gravity bleed each wheel starting with the right rear. If your system is leak free and the lines are open it get's the pedal nice and firm!
I was having similar issues then got "taught" by a very experienced 69 owner ( he's had 6 of them ) you have to lock off other 3 brake hoses with the proper tool ( round bar - nothing flat so you don't damage inner hose walls - I went & bought 3 at a local autoparts store ) and pump pedal SLOWLY - painfully slowly to give the spring a chance to rebound.