383 shortblock advice
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: fairfax va
383 shortblock advice
Im ready to buy a 383 shortblock and am looking for advice. I want a street/STRIP motor runs pump gas but can be sprayed with 100 shot for fun. will top with 195 AFR heads. Please give opinions on who to buy from and what parts to be used. I want a shortblock and i can do the rest although i would like cam already degreed. thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Short blocks are usually cam less. I have installed a few cams without degreeing the cam. Degreeing the cam is more of an accuracy check. You are insuring that the cam is what the cam card says.
It is not a big deal to line up some dots and the timing chain paperwork will have a drawing.
just buy forged parts within your budget. lower grade or priced forged parts are better than the best cast or hyperthuretic(SP?)
Strong cranks are nothing when installed in a weak block.
So I have always used ARP studs even in 4 bolt main caps
It is not a big deal to line up some dots and the timing chain paperwork will have a drawing.
just buy forged parts within your budget. lower grade or priced forged parts are better than the best cast or hyperthuretic(SP?)
Strong cranks are nothing when installed in a weak block.
So I have always used ARP studs even in 4 bolt main caps
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
Im ready to buy a 383 shortblock and am looking for advice. I want a street/STRIP motor runs pump gas but can be sprayed with 100 shot for fun. will top with 195 AFR heads. Please give opinions on who to buy from and what parts to be used. I want a shortblock and i can do the rest although i would like cam already degreed. thanks
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I have a forged bottom end 385. Eagle crank, Scat stroker rods with 7/16 bolts and forged SRP pistons. A big solid cam and AFR 190 heads. It makes 400+RWHP and I would not hesitate to run a 150 shot of Nitrous on it. It was not cheap but not outragous either. I think I paid around 1700 for the stroker kit.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 293
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
look in my signature for what I have done.....basically a cast bottom end.....I wouldn't hesitate to throw a 100 shot on the car.....I don't think I'd ever go much more than that though....
I've ran the crap out of this little motor for the past few months......for the price, you can't beat it for a street car.....i paid $540 for the stroker kit....cast scat crank, forged ibeams, HE pistons.......oh yeah, if it helps...it's a 2bolt main...note though, I built the motor and with this kit it does require clearancing...
ryan
I've ran the crap out of this little motor for the past few months......for the price, you can't beat it for a street car.....i paid $540 for the stroker kit....cast scat crank, forged ibeams, HE pistons.......oh yeah, if it helps...it's a 2bolt main...note though, I built the motor and with this kit it does require clearancing...
ryan
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Eagle lightweight 3.75" 4340 forged crank Machined by AMS $400, Callies Comp star 4340 forged, polished 6" H beam stroker clearanced rods with the best rated 7/16 cap bolts. $720, Mahle forged flat tops with rings and pins $500. King bearings $60. Balanced easy with no heavy metal $200. Billet 4 bolt main caps $120. ARP Main studs $80, Line bore $100 Total Balanced, forged bottom end. $2180. Should handle lots of boost or a big shot of NO2 with no worries.
