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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 05:52 PM
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Default broken oil pressure line

I have a 1970 coupe with the 350 engine. I put in a new distributor and when I started the car, oil sprayed on the windshield. I found the plastic oil pressure line was broken close to the fitting below the distributor. I see that Ecklers and Corvette Central have replacement plastic line kits and Mid America has a copper line kit. I like the idea of the copper better but would like some input from the Forum. Will this be difficult to replace? Thanks, Rob
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RodTeq
I have a 1970 coupe with the 350 engine. I put in a new distributor and when I started the car, oil sprayed on the windshield. I found the plastic oil pressure line was broken close to the fitting below the distributor. I see that Ecklers and Corvette Central have replacement plastic line kits and Mid America has a copper line kit. I like the idea of the copper better but would like some input from the Forum. Will this be difficult to replace? Thanks, Rob
Copper is the way to go ... period. Just insulate any rub points with duct tape or a piece of vacuum line, held in place with zip ties wrapped tightly around the tube.

Replacing the line is easy once you get to the guage in the dash! That's the hard part.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
Copper is the way to go ... period. Just insulate any rub points with duct tape or a piece of vacuum line, held in place with zip ties wrapped tightly around the tube.

Replacing the line is easy once you get to the guage in the dash! That's the hard part.
Two comments: I believe that most auto parts stores sell replacement oil pressure lines. I know I have bought one and it worked well.

Secondly, I recall quite clearly that copper is a dangerous way to go because the copper gets brittle and will rupture, usually at the worst time. Do a search over at the NCRS DB Archives and here and see if you can find the original post. The folks who were talking about this were quite adamant that copper was an accident looking for a place to happen. Again, don't trust my memory, do a search.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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Get a plastic line at a local auto parts store. Copper will become brittle over time and break.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:47 PM
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I have run copper lines for years and never had one get brittle, burn through, get a hole rubbed in it or blow off the back of the gauge (a real mess). My vote is copper.......
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Frankly, I would use the plastic.
As for copper, in the Model T club we use it for gas and oil lines. The flared fittings break with vibration, but compression fittings seem to hold up well. Do put a couple loops between engine and firewall to absorb vibration.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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Thanks guys. So far it is 50% copper and 50% plastic...I will go by the parts store tomorrow and see what they have in stock. While I would prefer copper, since GM went with plastic that might be best. How about an electric conversion, any one? Ron
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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The sender is no problem. I do not know if anyone makes a 71 electric gauge conversion.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 11:34 PM
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If you really want to get exotic you can install a braided teflon sender line. Racers use them (I've got one on my vintage racer). The plastic lines get brittle from the underhood heat in a Vette and you don't have to bump them very hard to break them. I like the idea of copper with a loop in it to absorb vibration.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 12:03 AM
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I ran copper twice and both times it broke and pissed oil all over the place. I have nylon now and that has been fine for two years now...

Don't go copper.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 01:08 AM
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Nylon..had copper been better, GM's engineers would have specified the use of copper. I had a copper line break on my 57 Chevy.

For strenght, you can't beat the 1/8" steel line.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:24 AM
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just get a replacement ferule, and cap for the block fiting. then cut line back a little to get away from break. this will be easier than trying to get at the back of the presure gauge in the cluster. you can get them at any auto store. bring your old one so they can match it up...
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by fugawi
just get a replacement ferule, and cap for the block fiting. then cut line back a little to get away from break. this will be easier than trying to get at the back of the presure gauge in the cluster. you can get them at any auto store. bring your old one so they can match it up...
That is the way to go, unless the line you have there now is too brittle.
But after putting in a new dist. you probably tapped it with the dist gear, and only need to.do what is mentioned above! Very easy!!!
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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S/S Braided line from Summit - best of both worlds!!
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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I believe that there is enough evidence that over time copper gets brittle and more susceptible to failure. Even if you take a vote here and use the results, why would you take ANY chance that the copper line will fail and either cause an expensive repair or a big mess to clean up?

Don't take our word for it. Go digging and see what you can come up with. I doubt that you will find any copper lines on cars. Must be a reason for it.

Gary
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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I replaced the one in my 72 with another plastic kit from Paragon. I have the tubing here but the ferule is different then the type the auto stores have and it didn't fit tight enough and leaked. The one from Paragon or any good vendor works the best. I could have machined a brass ferule but it wasn't worth the time or trouble,get the kit.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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The original "copper" lines are copper plated steel. Their the ones to use.
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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WOW, what a mess. I went to NAPA and they had a VDO copper oil line for $10. Now I am looking for the plastic fix at other stores tomorrow. I also will try to stretch the original line if possible. What a PITA! It seems electric would be the most reliable. Rob
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Old Mar 10, 2007 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by w1ctc
The original "copper" lines are copper plated steel. Their the ones to use.
FINALLY, we have the answer. Yes, both the copper and the nylon/plastic lines will eventually break and usually at the worse time. And there seems to be a 50/50 chance of it breaking at the gauge and thus flooding the interior with oil (real fun) or near the engine so it flows over the exhaust, making lots of smoke.

The safest is the braided lines for racing, however, the copper and nylon both work if you keep an eye on them and replace them periodically.

The best is the copper-plated steel, and you can get that at several places, as it fits the easiest and is strong enough to last.

You should also check your local hydraulic hose supplier. Places like Aeroquip are many times higher than the local guy, and the stuff is the same in quality.
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by RodTeq
WOW, what a mess. I went to NAPA and they had a VDO copper oil line for $10. Now I am looking for the plastic fix at other stores tomorrow. I also will try to stretch the original line if possible. What a PITA! It seems electric would be the most reliable. Rob

DO NOT STRETTCH the old line!!! If you are short you will have to replace the line!!!
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