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Ok, getting things back together under the hood after detailing all winter. I had it running earlier and the temp gauge went up to the edge of the red in just a couple of minutes after starting. I shut it off and haven't restarted it since then. Every hose and the radiator were stone cold, but the anitfreeze in the radiator was bubbling almost immedieately, so I'm thinking water must be flowing, or am I wrong? Some more background: the temp sensor was not removed, just the electircal connector unplugged. Water pump was off and reinstalled, and a new Edelbrock intake installed. The car has always gone close to the red just like it did today before the thermostat opened, but it just seemed like it jumped up to that point quick, but it hung there for a while before I shut it off. After it ran, I came back out and the radiator was a little low on antifreeze, so I fillled ti back up. Also, it sucked most of the antifreeze out of the overflow bottle. Anyone want to throw any suggestions out?
what about the bubbling in the radiator, wouldn't that indicate coolant was moving?
Not necessarily. Bubbles = air.
Have you replaced your water pump? Is it possible that you got a reverse flow pump by mistake?
It's also possible that you have air trapped in the system, and for some reason, the pump won't prime. That doesn't sound right though, if it's blowing air bubbles.
If it is a reverse flow, it will take up whatever water it can off of the top. When you look at the level, it will have went down, but only to about the level of the top left hose. It will be sucking air, and blowing bubbles through the lower right hose.
Same water pump as before, just removed for painting then reinstalled. I've done a search on air pockets and will take advice shown there to see if that can be the problem.
I had the same thing happen when I replaced my waterpump. I had the radiator completely full and I started it. The gauge quickly climbed up. I shut the car off and my hoses were cold. The problem is that I was air locked. I let the car sit a little and it pulled more water into the engine. I started the car and watched the gauge and it got hot again. I left it sit a little and carefully opend the cap again to see it was low. I did this a couple of times and that seemed to prime the pump until it worked. That was probably not the best way to do it. I think I should have just unhooked the upper rad hose and try to fill it through there.
Drain the coolant and remove the thermostat. Fill the system until the coolant level touches the bottom of the thermostat. Re-install the thermostat and housing and top off the coolant. You may want to run the engine with the cap off as you let it warm up. You will probably have to add more coolant. Air gets trapped easily under the thermostat and it won't open.
Here is a pic of a Robert Shaw thermostat. Stewart pumps sells them with 3 holes 1/8" drilled as shown. It lets air escape while filling.
You can do this to any thermostat. 1 hole is enough for air pockets. Jacking up the car a bit or aiming it uphill will also help, then let it run with the rad cap off until hot and all the air escapes. When the thermostat opens you should see a lowering of the level in the rad of several inches and add more and you should be all set.
BTW, the thermostat shown is the best available and only $9.00 a Advance Auto
PROBLEM SOLVED! Every thing I've done lately trying to get the car back on the road has been 1 step forwayd, 2 steps back and I've been getting really frustrated lately. Words can't explain how good it was to just stand behind the car listening to the rumble of flowmasters, a big cam and headers again. Too bad I bent the heck out of the power steering pulley trying to put it on a new pump yesterday or I'd be driving it right now, but at least that's the last mechanical thing to do, then I just have to clean up and paint the underside of the hood before reinstalling it. Thanks for the help guys! Forgot to mention, it must have been an air pocket.