Brakes went out help!!!?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Oak Park IL
Brakes went out help!!!?
I was taking out the car for the first time after the winter thaw for a spin around the block when the brake pedal went to the floor when I tried to brake and you can guess the car did not stop! thank god I was going slow.
Anyhow I'm not sure what to do first should I upgrade the system and if so any suggestions? Or should I just replace the lines and bleed them? how can I tell if I have power brakes?
Anyhow I'm not sure what to do first should I upgrade the system and if so any suggestions? Or should I just replace the lines and bleed them? how can I tell if I have power brakes?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
If you have power brakes, you will have a big doughnut shaped power booster between the firewall and master cylinder.
I would imagine you have a lot of air in the system, probably due to runout caused by wobbly rotors.
If you are not comfortable doing this kind of work, I suggest dropping it off at a brake shop.
Things that need to be done.
Rotors removed and checked. They need to be true. If they are not they need to be turned or replaced.
Bearings need to be checked and replaced or repacked if needed. Runout is what you're trying to avoid and that comes from bearings being out of tolerance and rotors that may be unevenly worn or warped.
After all that, bleed thoroughly and monitor brake fluid level.
I would imagine you have a lot of air in the system, probably due to runout caused by wobbly rotors.
If you are not comfortable doing this kind of work, I suggest dropping it off at a brake shop.
Things that need to be done.
Rotors removed and checked. They need to be true. If they are not they need to be turned or replaced.
Bearings need to be checked and replaced or repacked if needed. Runout is what you're trying to avoid and that comes from bearings being out of tolerance and rotors that may be unevenly worn or warped.
After all that, bleed thoroughly and monitor brake fluid level.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Oak Park IL
have worked on brakes before but...
If you have power brakes, you will have a big doughnut shaped power booster between the firewall and master cylinder.
I would imagine you have a lot of air in the system, probably due to runout caused by wobbly rotors.
If you are not comfortable doing this kind of work, I suggest dropping it off at a brake shop.
Things that need to be done.
Rotors removed and checked. They need to be true. If they are not they need to be turned or replaced.
Bearings need to be checked and replaced or repacked if needed. Runout is what you're trying to avoid and that comes from bearings being out of tolerance and rotors that may be unevenly worn or warped.
After all that, bleed thoroughly and monitor brake fluid level.
I would imagine you have a lot of air in the system, probably due to runout caused by wobbly rotors.
If you are not comfortable doing this kind of work, I suggest dropping it off at a brake shop.
Things that need to be done.
Rotors removed and checked. They need to be true. If they are not they need to be turned or replaced.
Bearings need to be checked and replaced or repacked if needed. Runout is what you're trying to avoid and that comes from bearings being out of tolerance and rotors that may be unevenly worn or warped.
After all that, bleed thoroughly and monitor brake fluid level.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
You can do it all yourself but go slow, take small steps, and don't get overwhelmed. Work on one corner at a time kind of thing.
It might be a good idea to replace the stock calipers with newer S/S sleeved calipers, $69 at Autozone after core. They come with a lifetime warranty and have the S/S sleeves so you won't have to worry as much about pitting in the old steel sleeves.
Replacing the flex lines is also a good idea...and maybe even upgrading to S/S braided flex lines.
Rotors may or may not be a problem but you won't know for sure unless they are checked by a brake shop and turned if needed.
Sometimes to get a good bleed, you have to do it several times in a row. Start at the back system furthest from the master, and then do the front system, furthest from the master. Gravity bleed first, then pump. Check valve bleeder valves also speed things up and make it easier to bleed by yourself.
It might be a good idea to replace the stock calipers with newer S/S sleeved calipers, $69 at Autozone after core. They come with a lifetime warranty and have the S/S sleeves so you won't have to worry as much about pitting in the old steel sleeves.
Replacing the flex lines is also a good idea...and maybe even upgrading to S/S braided flex lines.
Rotors may or may not be a problem but you won't know for sure unless they are checked by a brake shop and turned if needed.
Sometimes to get a good bleed, you have to do it several times in a row. Start at the back system furthest from the master, and then do the front system, furthest from the master. Gravity bleed first, then pump. Check valve bleeder valves also speed things up and make it easier to bleed by yourself.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Check for juice, is it clean? Clear? If so, good, if not, suck it out and refill with new and do a complete bleed until you get clean, clear in the calipers. Pull the wheels and look over the calipers and rotors, check them for runout, should be less than .001.You will probly find a bit of air, doesn't take much.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Oak Park IL
Feel like an idiot!
all good points and things I should have done before posting this thread will pop all the wheels and look at the issue in front of me. thanks for the tip on the S/S I think I will upgrade to those calipers and lines since I need to redo it all anyhow. Also thanks for the bleeding advice.
Another question is if I were to upgrade the system what do you all recommend? which I will save for another thread.
Hey durango thanks again I also noticed that your in on a lot of threads you are a true asset to the forum especially for idiots like me
Another question is if I were to upgrade the system what do you all recommend? which I will save for another thread.
Hey durango thanks again I also noticed that your in on a lot of threads you are a true asset to the forum especially for idiots like me
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,652
Likes: 80
From: Lakeland Florida
Did you notice any brake fluid puddles under your car? Look for signs of leaking. If one of the calipers is leaking, then it should be evident at that particular wheel. You should pull each wheel off and look for the obvious.
Of course if it was leaking that bad, then the fluid level in your master cyclinder should be low. The front bowl is for the front brakes, the back bowl is for the back brakes.
If you are going to rebuild your brake system, the stainless steel flex hoses are not that much more than the rubber OEM hoses. Usually about $40 more, but it should help with keeping a firm pedal, or so the books say.
SS lines that go from the hose to the calipers should be about $10 -$20 each depending where you get them from.
If you have not rebuilt the piston calipers before, it may be easier to get a rebuilt set. These should be around $100 per caliper. And you will be charged a core charge for each one.
kdf
Of course if it was leaking that bad, then the fluid level in your master cyclinder should be low. The front bowl is for the front brakes, the back bowl is for the back brakes.
If you are going to rebuild your brake system, the stainless steel flex hoses are not that much more than the rubber OEM hoses. Usually about $40 more, but it should help with keeping a firm pedal, or so the books say.
SS lines that go from the hose to the calipers should be about $10 -$20 each depending where you get them from.
If you have not rebuilt the piston calipers before, it may be easier to get a rebuilt set. These should be around $100 per caliper. And you will be charged a core charge for each one.
kdf
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Oak Park IL
Master cylinder?
I spoke to a tech and he mentioned that it may be the master cylinder the tell tail sign he said is that when you brake they just go to the floor which the pedal does and when you pump you get no restored which is what I have. I havn't looked over the wheels yet but will tonight for any leaks so if there are no leaks than do you all think it may be the master cylinder?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
If it is a master cylinder, then you have two options. First, is buying a remanufactured unit. Usually these are around $45, and come with good warranties. Next, is a rebuild kit. A rebuild kit only costs around $25 and will only take about an hour from taking out the master to bench bleeding. It's not hard at all, but make sure you do bench bleed as leaving air in the master can cause issues when you try to bleed the system.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
It's not normal, but it happens to the best of us. That very same thing is why I tore down my braking system and redid everything. I suspect runout and fluid loss and air gain.
Try filling it up, bleeding, and priming the pedal for pressure.
It should hold. Then take it for a nice long drive, and check the fluid level when you get home. If it's dropped, then you know you have a leak somewhere.