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After installing my Muncie this weekend, I think I may have to change motor mounts back to a stock style instead of the solid ones I bought and installed . The problem is that when you put it in second gear, the shifter hits the console plate and won't go in gear. I have to shim the tranny over about an inch and a half and that's not gonna happen with those solid mounts. I had to force the trans over to even get the bolts in the tranny mount.
Anyone ever run into this?
YES YES. Our alignment of the drive train is not very good. The motor/tranny actually often point towards the rear passengers wheel. If you install solid mounts they dictate this alignment and it screws things up.
I installed the passengers solid mount first. I then aligned the drivetrain and the stock poly mount installed fine, really no side forces on it but then when you do the drivers side it is way out of alignment and it is cut and weld time.
With poly/rubber engine mounts you do the motor first and then pry the tranny over, you have good leverage and the tranny mount drops into place with a little prying.
With solids if anything is off it shows and you run into problems. Rubber mounts just hide this miss alignment.
I don't want hassels over this. I have run into it. I did fix it and took alot of greif from the forum over this.
If you want everything to align right and at the same time not put torsional forces on the frame and your tranny cut and weld the drivers solid mount.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Mar 12, 2007 at 11:52 AM.
Holy crap Norvil. No way am I getting involved in all that mess. I'll just go back to a stock type mount and try to line things up. Thanks for confirming my theory. Looks like I'll be busy again tonight.
I have to tell you that I have had Moroso solid mounts in two SCCA race Corvettes and NEVER had to cut a thing to install the trans or have shifter issues.
Not to say that it couldn't happen, aftermarket parts are often not to manufacturers specs.
I would call the engine mount manufacturers and let them know about the problem. They may not know it exists. If they do and havn't done anything about it, get your money back and go with a different brand. Otherwise, they may send you a new pair of mounts that have been checked on their fixtures to make sure you are getting a good product. Give them a chance to make it right.
Other than a race application, why would you want solid mounts?
If its a race application, get some mounts that are machined properly.
I don't believe it is the mount. The frame and the frame mounts could be out? Something over the years can be bent? It doesn't take much when you are trying to align the 3 mounts for a slight misalignment to really magnify itself over a distance.
Alot of people have problems installing the drivers mount weather it is poly or rubber if you do it last.
If you are doing poly mounts do the passengers first, the drivers second and then the trany.
If you have the tranny mount done before the drivers mount you have nothing to pry on to align the bolt. If you do the 2 motor mounts first and then pry the tranny over it can be done but it puts both motor mounts into bind.
Again it is not the mounts but the frame
Guys if you ever put the car on stands, mis adjusted the steering control valve and then started the engine so the steering wheel oscolates??? back and forth you would be suprised at the movement in the frame. It is truely scary how flimsy our frames really are.
It is truely scary how flimsy our frames really are.
That may be what my problem is since I did all the work while the car was up on my scissor lift. I'm going to try to loosen everything up now that it's on the ground and see if everything lines up.
After installing my engine and bolting everything up my shifter is doing the same thing. I thought I gooned up the linkage and would adjust it out but now it's a whole new ball game. I even used the old engine mounts and a new tranny mount. Oh well.
YES YES. Our alignment of the drive train is not very good. The motor/tranny actually often point towards the rear passengers wheel. If you install solid mounts they dictate this alignment and it screws things up.
I installed the passengers solid mount first. I then aligned the drivetrain and the stock poly mount installed fine, really no side forces on it but then when you do the drivers side it is way out of alignment and it is cut and weld time.
With poly/rubber engine mounts you do the motor first and then pry the tranny over, you have good leverage and the tranny mount drops into place with a little prying.
With solids if anything is off it shows and you run into problems. Rubber mounts just hide this miss alignment.
I had the same issues on mine when I bought it. The PO had installed solid engine and tranny mounts which put everything including the shifter in a bind. His solution was to leave out the tranny mount bolts. My solution was to install rubber mounts. I've read that solid mounts can actually put stress and warpage into the cylinder walls.
Guys if you ever put the car on stands, mis adjusted the steering control valve and then started the engine so the steering wheel oscolates??? back and forth you would be suprised at the movement in the frame. It is truely scary how flimsy our frames really are.
I can agree with this! I did it and thought the whole front of my car was going to fall off, the amount of flex was amazing!