Rear Body Mounts
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Rear Body Mounts
The rear body mount reinforcements on my 1970 have rusted out. What is the process for replacing these mounts? Is there any secret in getting the bolt out? I'm hoping to do this without having to take the entire body off. Thanks for the help.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 300
Likes: 0
From: Joplin Missouri
I am also in the process of changing my rear mounts. What Ive read in the forum is that it is possible to raise the body up a couple of inches without completely removing the body. Becareful I dont remember which mount it is that if you snap the bolt you must remove the body.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
From: Gander Newfoundland
Number 4 mount (just rear of the rear wheels) can be accessed from inside the cargo area. Number 3 (just ahead of the rear wheels) is a pita if it spins in its cage. You can loosen all mounts on the side in question and raise the body just enough to get the rubbers clear and then replace with new.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 240
Likes: 58
From: Jacksonville, Florida
I have the same question and was curious. The rear mounts behind the rear wheels are dry rotted and cracked. What problems could that cause? Do they "need" to be replaced, or can I just get by?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Don't even bother trying to unscrew that #4 body mount bolt. Just cut it out with a grinder or sawzall and replace. Access the top portion of that bolt & cage nut through the inside rear cavities. Depending on year of car, remove/loosten #3 body mount bolt (behind kick panel) remove all bumper supports, rubber fuel lines, battery ground, & loosten P-Brake cable, (might be more stuff...check). You should be able to lift the rear body the required couple of inches to access that #4 mount.
I was able to repair the mount fiberglass, replace the metal support (screwed in with stainless), and change the entire mount (poly with stainless bolt)with the body only one inch up. Lots of guys don't use the cage & nut on the inside...a big washer works just fine. I fabricated a square piece of stainless that fits down in the rear well...along with a washer under the nut for added strength.
Not a hard job...but time consuming
Good luck
Eddie
I was able to repair the mount fiberglass, replace the metal support (screwed in with stainless), and change the entire mount (poly with stainless bolt)with the body only one inch up. Lots of guys don't use the cage & nut on the inside...a big washer works just fine. I fabricated a square piece of stainless that fits down in the rear well...along with a washer under the nut for added strength.
Not a hard job...but time consuming
Good luck
Eddie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
All the vendors carry that replacement body mount to weld onto the frame. If just the top of it is rusted away you could cut some 12-14 gage sheet metal to fit the opening and acess it from below and weld it in. Then cut your mounting hole for the rubber or poly cushion. I just repaired mine but the body is off and as already stated, skip the caged nut, use a stainless washer, stainless bolt with a regular grade 5 polylock nut. Remember that Stainless on Stainless galls together.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 892
Likes: 0
From: GA
I feel for ya... I have a 70 Vert... so it was a little involved.
#4 is a PITA... Definately cut it. Raise the rear of the body... be sure to loosen the #3 and #2 as well. Sawzall the bolt as is is sandwiched between mounted plate and frame. Then "climb" inside and have at it. I had to drill the cage nut rivets and replace the whole assembly. I even replaced the mount that rivets to the body from underside. Got all my parts from Paragon... perfect fit.
You will find, if the bolt is rusted that bad... the cage nut will most definately be rusted as well. Also, now is a good time to check for those water leaks. Like I said, mine is convertible so my rear deck lid gasket was bad AND... the fiberglass was cracked where the water drains...
I purchased a bucky bar and air hammer tool to put back stock aluminum rivets...
ONE other note... be careful threading the #4 bolt back in... keep the body up off the mount a little and it will go right in. Then tighten and it will slowly pull the body back down... DON'T forget the shims...
Good Luck... TAKE YOUR TIME... it is a pain... but good work will produce really nice results...
#4 is a PITA... Definately cut it. Raise the rear of the body... be sure to loosen the #3 and #2 as well. Sawzall the bolt as is is sandwiched between mounted plate and frame. Then "climb" inside and have at it. I had to drill the cage nut rivets and replace the whole assembly. I even replaced the mount that rivets to the body from underside. Got all my parts from Paragon... perfect fit.
You will find, if the bolt is rusted that bad... the cage nut will most definately be rusted as well. Also, now is a good time to check for those water leaks. Like I said, mine is convertible so my rear deck lid gasket was bad AND... the fiberglass was cracked where the water drains...
I purchased a bucky bar and air hammer tool to put back stock aluminum rivets...
ONE other note... be careful threading the #4 bolt back in... keep the body up off the mount a little and it will go right in. Then tighten and it will slowly pull the body back down... DON'T forget the shims...
Good Luck... TAKE YOUR TIME... it is a pain... but good work will produce really nice results...
