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Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (74jack)
I tried the sawzall (rented) and didn't make it before my time ran out.
I think I can get in there and shave off the bolt with a 6 inch cutoff wheel on my massive hand-held grinder - I just need someone to stand by with the water...
Then I should be able to push the bolts out with a bent punch or screwdriver.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (74jack)
A Sawzall and a few Bimetal blades will cut right through those bolts. Hopefully, you were able to get all of the shims out first. If you don't own a Sawsall, most "U Rent" type stores rent them.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (Monty)
I had to rent a sawzall to remove mine. When you can remove the shims, cutting the bolt is very easy. When you can't, then it's an ugly job... Anyway, the sawzall will solve your problem.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (Pedro'74)
You guys are using the wrong type of blades. USE A BIMETAL BLADE. It has high speed cutting steel for the teeth and a steel back. Very hard teeth wit ha back that will not break. I work for American Saw. We make Lenox (No not the heater guy) saw blades. You should need 1 maybe 2 blades for the whole job. If you are using Carbon blades it will take you forever and you will use a ton of blades. I have cut through hardened steel bolts in about a minute with these type of blades. Use about a 10 or 14 tooth BIMETAL blade and you should have no touble with these bolts. I have done it a few times with this.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (Gordonm)
Uh, Gordon, that's the exact blade I recommended about an hour ago.
74Jack, One thing I would recommend when you put it back together - think stainless steel. The kits that are sold by the warehouses do not use a stainless bolt. I ordered a set of ARP stainless steel bolts and nylocks and used those. Also, I'd recommend the use of some anti-seize. After finally get those trailing arms out, you'll never want to fight that battle again.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (74jack)
Rent a sawzall. I used the bimetal blades mentioned, but it still took a goodly number of them. The scariest part is the first few minutes, then you get used to it. I had to saw the trailing arm off first, so that I would have room to reach in a get to the bolts. I wore eye protection because I snapped off several blades when I hit the frame with the tip of the blade. It took me about 4 - 6 hours for both sides. I had to cut each bolt two times, one for each side of the trailing arm since the bolts wouldn't slide out even though they were cut. I actually ended up cutting through the old spacers also, since they were in the way.
It's worth it though to get the new TAs in there with stainless bolts, ss shims, and even ss cotter pin. I won't have to do this ever again... :yesnod:
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (Z-man)
That is roughly consistent with a local shop that gave an estimate of six hours+. Why would you need to cut the trailing arm? I understand that the problem with the old shims is that they were not slotted as seen below but that the pivot bolt went through them. Thus they cannot be removed before cutting??.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (paul79)
Thanks for help... I think.
I will definitely use the bi-metal blades. I'll take a look tonight and see if I have the slotted shims. I doubt it though. If not, the job may have to wait for the winter. Cutting through the shims sounds like quite a job.
Once everything is out of car, sitting in a pile of metal shavings, how hard is it to get them back in after their rebuilt? I can barely get a wrench on the bolt now, it must be difficult pushing that bolt back on through the bushings & arm.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (74jack)
Monty is right. Bi-metal should do the job if you use the proper technique. Don't lean on the sawzall.. let the blade cut. After you get the feel of it, you should be able to move the saw foreward and backward, holding the blade on the work for a while at different parts of the blade. (tip through to the bottom) This uses up all the teeth...not just the ones by the guard!! Hope this helps..... :D :cheers:
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (74jack)
Hi.... Alternate Method:
I'm in the process of doing my arms now. Both bolts are seized.
My shims are not slotted. I purchased two bi-metal blades for a sawzall
(Not high speed) and promptly wore the teeth off both and only
cut 1/4 of the bolt.
I took my drill and drilled a 1/8" hole in the shims/bolt. Then followed up
with a 1/4" drill, then with a 1/2".
At that point the bolt was mostly cut. One hit with a hammer and punch
finished it. (If my aim was better, the drill would have finished the job)
I now have a new "high speed" blade for the sawzall and will try it on the
other side. If this doesn't work, then back to the drill.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (jcanney)
The shims that were on my car were slotted, like those in Paul's pic, and I believe they were the stock shims. Now, non-slotted shims must make the alignment a real nightmare!
Jack: talking about alignment, when you remove the old shims, tape them and label them, so you can use the same amount of shims when you put everything back together. I did that, and the alignment was so close that the alignment shop guy did not have to do anything on one side, and only had to do some fine tuning on the other side.
Re: Need Moral Support - Contemplating Rear Trailing Arms (daily_driver)
DD,
I can't get to the bolt -- stock shims. I can't see burnin' through them as well. I used an oxy acyt torch to remove my rear shock mounts. It is a thrilling experience.
Pedro,
Thanks for the tip with remembering their existing setup. I'll do that.