I'm going to flush my brake system. I want to replace all the fluid with Wagner Severeduty DOT 5.1. This stuff is non-silicone, same as the fluid in it now. I can't find a patient volunteer to work the pedal- so how does this gravity method work?

 

Just fill the master up, open the bleeders, and let gravity pull the fluid down through the system. Put pans under each caliper to catch the dripping fluid, and check the fluid level so it doesn't get too low.

I have seen it take upwards of 48 hours to do correctly. After the gravity bleeding method, a pedal bleed is a good idea.

Start furthest away bleeding the rear system. Then, keeping furthest away first, bleed the front system.

Buying check valve bleeders from Autozone or Oreilly will make pedal bleeding a one man job.

 

I have done the bleeding myself. Get a broomstick that will fit tightly between brake pedal and seat-back (cut to length if need be) Simply pump-up brake pedal, insert stick between pedal and seat (being careful not to damage cover), Go bleed caliper. Repeat for all other calipers removing stick, pumping (and checking fluid level). Job done with no family arguments.

 

even more precise and efficient than the broomstick method is the Pressure Bleeder. It has a piece that you clamp on to the master cylinder and it has what looksl ike a gardening sprayer container on the end of it which you put your new fluid in and pump it up. Then go along and loosten the bleeder screw and out comes a steady stream. Its the most efficient and most reliable method ive ever seen and it has adapters that can be used with any master cylinder. One of the best investements ive made!

JAMES

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
shop around and you can find a cheaper one

 

Thanks guys. I don't think 48 hrs will work for me. I like the idea of pressure bleeding. I also think I'd better get the check valve bleeders and be prepaired to do it myself.

Does anyone have input on a preferred brand of QUALITY bleeders like this?

 

There really is only one brand makers of those check valve bleeders, and I believe they are the HELP brand. The Autozone brand vacuum bleeder is also a good unit, maybe $25 and you can still use it when you;re done to diagnose any vacuum leaks with your headlights and such.

 

me personally, i have never had any luck with the vaccume bleeders and have always ended up pulling air bubbles and having to redo everything. The only pressure bleeders ive ever seen are the ones made by motive and its a pretty substantial piece of equipment very versitle and will bleed any car you have 100% air free.

 

Here's a couple of links I had saved.

The Making of the Inexpensive Brake Pressure Bleeder
1 Man Brake Bleeding

The pressure bleeder would need to be fitted with the correct master cylinder lid, but looks like it'd work.

 

ME, being basically a cheep bastard, drill holes in the metal top, and reinstall with good intact gasket....take you air hose and hit one section at a time with air pressure to force the rubber down and displace fluid to the open caliper...., do it all around, make sure you don't run it dry....

good as any money spent on bleeders, better than most....

but the single largest thing, Oring pistons/rings in calipers, NO SPRINGS, new pads, decent rotors, and Hydroboost brake booster...

 

The Motive Bleeder is the only way to go and sells for around $60. Not much money at all. It cost me that much to fill my work Van up with gas.

 

I have on and works great for more modern cars as well. Only trick for this is forget the wimpy chains it comes with to seal to the top of the master cylinder and just use wood and some clamps. Works pperfectly if you do this.

 

Hey Gene, explain the hole drilling part...I'm kind of lost on that one.

 

do an internet search for "Speed Bleeders" they replace your bleed screws and make bleeding brakes an inexpensive one man job, I have a sympethetic wife when it comes to my car but I have heard good things about these.....you will need 6 bleed screws.
...redvetracr

 

Heard a lot of bad things about Speed Bleeders over the years on the C-2 forum. For a little more money the Motive Power Bleeder could be had and at least you can use the Motive Bleeder on other cars as well saving you tons of headaches with these old Vettes. I have used my Motive Bleeder on both my 67' and 73'. Never had such a good pedal before the use of it.

By the way it is nice that you have a wife that doesn't give you a hard time when coming out to help bleed the brakes. Me I am in a different position. Both my wife and daugther gave me a song and a dance everytime I needed the help. In your older years its even hard to find one of your friends around to give a hand at bleeding the brakes but with the Motive Bleeder there is no need to even ask anyone. You bleed the brakes when you see fit and that is the best thing about it other then the fact the Motive Bleeder for the money is 2nd to none from my own experience. As I said in another thread I wish I had this Motive Bleeder 30 years ago actually 37 years ago when I purchased my first Vette a used 67' Vert at 3 years old. Back then we had to rebuild our own Calipers and the addition of Stainless Steel Sleeves didn't come to many years down the road from then. We just did the best job we could with the corroded cylinders that we had cleaning them up as best as possible before replacing the inner and outer seals. It would buy you a couple of years of time before they starting leaking again. I actually got my first set of SS Sleeved calipers having my original calipers SS Sleeved on my 73' Coupe back in 1990. Just got done rebuilding them again roughly 2 years ago with new seals.

 

That method may indeed work, but you'll still have to d!ck around with refilling the master, replacing the cap over and over.
The Motive bleeder is a one shot deal

 

This worked like a charm for me...............

 

thats quite a boiling point for dot 5.1 is it expensive?

 

I use my steering wheel CLUB locking bar to press the brake pedal when bleeding the brakes. Pump up the brakes and place the club on top of the brake pedal pad and the other end with the two piece vee under the steering wheel and turn the key to lock it. Go bleed the brake caliper. Repeat as necessary.