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Have 79 L82 Auto. Am able to start in park without any problems when engine is cool. After driving and engine warms up, when I turn the engine off, the car will not restart. Have full battery power, when key is turned to the start position nothing happens. The starter does not engage. Wait about 1 hour and retry a start the car starts without hesitation. I originally thought it was the park lock not engaging not allowing the starter to engage. Anyone have a helpful thought?
The solenoid on the starter is getting hot, and not engaging properly when you tell it to. Common problem, most people call it heat soak, and others just call it a wives tale.
The fixes range from a heat shield of some kind, and replacing the starter with a smaller GM high torque mini starter.
Make sure both connectors at the battery are clean and TIGHT. Solved my similar problem. Previous owner always disconnected the pos terminal for storage. Never checked the neg one. Wasn't loose at all but redoing the connection was all it took to stop the no start when warm problem. He had told me he sometimes needed to jump it, seems messing with the jumper cables on the "bad" connection would allow it to start.
It is heat soak and is caused by the solenoid requiring more current to engage it as it ages. These solenoids also require more current when hot. When this occurs the ignition swtich starter circuit can't supply enough current when the car is hot.
Replacing the current starter (starter and solenoid) or just the solenoid will help however it may come back. The fix that worked for me going back 20+ years was to add a relay on the firewall that switches battery directly to the solenoid S terminal. The relay uses the ignition lead to close the relay (wire normally on solenoid S terminal). I then add a second wire where the batter lead connects to the starter which gives me a high current 12volt source. This lead connects to one side of the relay. I then connect a thrid wire to the other side of the relay to the solenoid S terminal. Oh and don't forget the 4th wire which is grounded on the relay coil.
The solution above costs about $10 and works great.
Like everyone said its the common heat soak problem..and to verify this really is your problem just drive the car and return home..park it next to your hose in your driveway....when the car does not start just squirt a little water from the hose directly on the starter...
Fixes:
I replaced the spring in the solenoid with a light weight spring ACDelco spring (about 5 bucks) ..I did this in all 3 of my C3's never had the problem again...However I understand GM discontinued this spring....
You can also use a remote solenoid and locate it away from the exhaust..(like ford does)... works fine..
Or use a heat shield...which sometimes works and sometimes does not...
The spring was my choice but if GM no longer makes it
(I do have the part number for the light wieght spring) I think I would go the remote selenoid route...
The above posts are right. You can usualy get it to crank by using a screwdriver to short out the terminals on the solenoid so you know the problem is due partly to electrical losses in the start circuit, not just heat. It is a combination problem that includes high resistance in the circuit, heat, and a solenoid design that was right on the edge of adequate for the application. This is a common problem now and it was pretty common years ago too but it has gotten worse for us over time due to age of the equipment. Band aids range from mini starters to adding a relay. The relay will do the trick for a lot less money than the mini starter but is just as effective. Heat shields are marginaly effective but definately do not hurt.
I add the relay to my GM cars when this happens. Not expensive, not difficult, not pretty but they will ALWAYS START UP.
i've got a 79 L82. struggled with the same problem for a long time. the final fix was a gear reduction mini-starter (Powermaster XS) and a starter relay. totally fixed the problem. i also run unwrapped/uncoated headers.