Door stuck need help!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 2
From: Arkansas
Door stuck need help!
Hi all,
I did a search and didn't find what I need. I was working on my 82 passenger door and and now it won't open.
I'ts like it's stuck in "Lock" mode and both the inside and outside latch won't work.
The door lock pull and outside cylinder seems to be moving ok, but not actually unlocking/locking the door. It's doesn't seem dissengaged in there anywhere. Looks normal.
I have my door panel off so I can get access to the latch mechanism and pushing down on that release lever isn't working either.
I had this problem before and took a flat tip screwdriver inside the latch somewhere and it popped open, I was so frustrated at the time I couldn't remember what I did.
Any tips or ideas
I did a search and didn't find what I need. I was working on my 82 passenger door and and now it won't open.
I'ts like it's stuck in "Lock" mode and both the inside and outside latch won't work.
The door lock pull and outside cylinder seems to be moving ok, but not actually unlocking/locking the door. It's doesn't seem dissengaged in there anywhere. Looks normal.
I have my door panel off so I can get access to the latch mechanism and pushing down on that release lever isn't working either.
I had this problem before and took a flat tip screwdriver inside the latch somewhere and it popped open, I was so frustrated at the time I couldn't remember what I did.
Any tips or ideas
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Look for play in the lock & open rods when connected. Disconnect the lock rod from one end. Now move the lock mechanism in the direction of unlock & try open. If not, disconnect the open rod from handle & move rod to try again. The rods which lock & open are adjustable.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
See the arrow? Put a LONG and wide flat head screw driver on that tab closest to the bulk head. Give it a good push and the door will pop right open.
It may slip off a few times so stay at it.
Be prepared to replace the door latches. They are $80 or so for good new ones. Chinese ones are cheaper, but don't last. You may get by with a good cleaning and adjustment...but more often than not you need to replace the door latch and locking mechanisms.
It may slip off a few times so stay at it.
Be prepared to replace the door latches. They are $80 or so for good new ones. Chinese ones are cheaper, but don't last. You may get by with a good cleaning and adjustment...but more often than not you need to replace the door latch and locking mechanisms.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
What usually happens is the handle doesnt come back up far enough or the rod is adjusted too tight. You need to check the adjustment of the push rod to the release from the handle. There is a slot in there that needs to be aligned for the lock to work correctly. If you adjust the push rod too tight it will not work. This only happens after the lock is activated and then the handle is pushed down. Most of the time, I can get it to release by quick operation of the inside handle about twenty times, very quickly. Then unlock the door before pushing in the outside handle.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 11,891
Likes: 3
From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Here is a link to my thread last year. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1554696003
My problem ended up being the Teflon pad tat the striker rides on became wedged between the latch and the striker. I finally gave up and decided to use a sawzall to cut the striker from inside the car. Yes, it's possible to do without hurting the body of the car. Once I could open the door I could remove the latch from the door and inspect it. I had to use a dremel to trim the pad down so it wouldn't happen again.
The only real downside was that it would have been impossible to diagnose the problem without cutting the striker.
My problem ended up being the Teflon pad tat the striker rides on became wedged between the latch and the striker. I finally gave up and decided to use a sawzall to cut the striker from inside the car. Yes, it's possible to do without hurting the body of the car. Once I could open the door I could remove the latch from the door and inspect it. I had to use a dremel to trim the pad down so it wouldn't happen again.
The only real downside was that it would have been impossible to diagnose the problem without cutting the striker.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 2
From: Arkansas
Thanks for the advice and comments (even the funny one's 
)
I came home for lunch and went out there to try the "Open the inside latch really fast" trick and all it did was make my clip fall off and the rod fall down in the door
I do believe I have the outside handle adjusted down too far, I did that on purpose to make the door pop open with less pressure But it makes sense that it could put the door lock mechanism in a bind.
I'll unhook that rod tonight and see what happens
)I came home for lunch and went out there to try the "Open the inside latch really fast" trick and all it did was make my clip fall off and the rod fall down in the door
I do believe I have the outside handle adjusted down too far, I did that on purpose to make the door pop open with less pressure But it makes sense that it could put the door lock mechanism in a bind.
I'll unhook that rod tonight and see what happens
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 2
From: Arkansas
Here is a link to my thread last year. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1554696003
My problem ended up being the Teflon pad tat the striker rides on became wedged between the latch and the striker. I finally gave up and decided to use a sawzall to cut the striker from inside the car. Yes, it's possible to do without hurting the body of the car. Once I could open the door I could remove the latch from the door and inspect it. I had to use a dremel to trim the pad down so it wouldn't happen again.
The only real downside was that it would have been impossible to diagnose the problem without cutting the striker.
My problem ended up being the Teflon pad tat the striker rides on became wedged between the latch and the striker. I finally gave up and decided to use a sawzall to cut the striker from inside the car. Yes, it's possible to do without hurting the body of the car. Once I could open the door I could remove the latch from the door and inspect it. I had to use a dremel to trim the pad down so it wouldn't happen again.
The only real downside was that it would have been impossible to diagnose the problem without cutting the striker.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 2
From: Arkansas
Update:
I just got home and went out to look at my latch mechanism again. I unhooked the rod going to the outside latch, popped the lock rod to the unlock postion and what do you know......it came open!
Took me about five minutes to do!
I guess the outside rod was adjusted a little too far down because the door lock lever travels a little farther now.
Thanks for the help from everyone, couldn't have done it without your input
I just got home and went out to look at my latch mechanism again. I unhooked the rod going to the outside latch, popped the lock rod to the unlock postion and what do you know......it came open!
Took me about five minutes to do!
I guess the outside rod was adjusted a little too far down because the door lock lever travels a little farther now.
Thanks for the help from everyone, couldn't have done it without your input