New Caliper Problem

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Mar 19, 2007 | 09:54 AM

1B.DZ

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 253

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From: Winter Haven Florida

New Caliper Problem

Hey guys,

Got my S/S lines and S/S & O-ringed Calipers from VB&P Saturday. They looked amazing. S/S lines installed very well minus the RR, which was a pain b/c I couldn't get the original line out of the recess. But everything else went well until I got to the Calipers. They wont bolt down without pinching the rotor. I compared them to the originals and the new ones taper down towards the rotor and the originals go straight down or slightly taper away from the rotor. Also the new calipers have tabs on them where it meets the rotor. My questions are concerning my idiocy. Am I doing something wrong here? Am I suppose to grind the tabs off? Has anybody else run into this?

Hopefully I'm just dumb and forgot something. We'll see. Hopefully Pattie will get back to me about them and help me out.

TIA,

Josh

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:00 AM

Durango_Boy

Team Owner

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 24,125

Likes: 15

From: Columbia Missouri

Front and rears are different in small ways. Rear calipers are different than front calipers just like the rotors are different too.

Rear rotors will have the E-brake adjustment holes along with the rivet holes, and the front will not.

Rear calipers have different mounting tabs, and have two and sometimes three bleeder valves and front only have one.

Check everything to make sure you have the correct rotor and caliper at the front and back.

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:13 AM

1B.DZ

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 253

Likes: 0

From: Winter Haven Florida

The bleeder valves were the correct numbers on all calipers in each place. Will the rear rotors work with the front calipers? Just wondering if a) the rear rotors are on the front and front on the rear. or b) The guy who did my brakes before used just front rotors all around. I'll check next time I go to work on it.

Thanks,

Josh

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:20 AM

Durango_Boy

Team Owner

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 24,125

Likes: 15

From: Columbia Missouri

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1B.DZ

The guy who did my brakes before used just front rotors all around. I'll check next time I go to work on it.

Thanks,

Josh

This will not work at all. This is probably part of your problem. Replace the rear rotors with correct rear rotors. Wow...that's very Bubba, I hope he wasn't a friend of yours.

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:42 AM

redvetracr

Race Director

Joined: Aug 1999

Posts: 18,126

Likes: 174

From: WI

front & rear rotors are different...the "hat" the part the wheel studs go through are thinner on the rear rotors....

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:48 AM

1B.DZ

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 253

Likes: 0

From: Winter Haven Florida

I'll have to check those rotors. They are not riveted anymore, but they are still locked onto the hub pretty tight. Hopefully they weren't welded on. Is there a possibility that if I got the rotors off that I could machine the inside of the "hat" to make it thinner. I think that would work. It was only hitting on the outside part of the rotor. This kind of thing always seem to happen when I work on this car.

Thanks,

Josh

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:51 AM

Durango_Boy

Team Owner

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 24,125

Likes: 15

From: Columbia Missouri

Machining the rotors would be a lot harder and more time consuming than stopping off at a local parts store and buying two new rear rotors.

Mar 19, 2007 | 10:54 AM

1B.DZ

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 253

Likes: 0

From: Winter Haven Florida

True, Probably needs it anyway. I didn't get to measure them to check thickness, but might as well assume they are crap. Like always, your on top of things, man.... er....boy.