I know how the HB is hooked up, I have one and made all my lines.

The lines on the stock steering system are all 5/16 (if I remember correctly) you can flare them to a 5/16 37 degree taper and then use a 5 an tube sleeve and nut and then a 5 to 6 an adapter.. but WHY? It'll look like a total cluster F, for the same amount of money or effort you can make a new line (or have one made) Also, since you have to slide over the tube sleeve and nut and then have to be able to stick it in the clamping block to DOUBLE FLARE (this is not seamless tubing) you may run out of tube length before you can flare it.

How are you going to flare this yourself? With a cheap *** summit/chinese flare tool? They don't do double flares and a quality tool that will do double flares will cost upward of 400$ running up to a 1000 or so.

The valve fitting is what..a simple 5/16 inverted flare??, nothing super fancy.

 

I don't recall exactly because I bought my line kit from Hydratech. I did end up making one of the lines myself as I did not like the length and how it was going to route. I think it was the 7/16"-24 to 4AN.

I have a double flaring tool, no it wasn't cheap, and yes it's tight working on that short of a tube. I've done that a few times when I had to make a new double flare for a Mopar pressure line. It can be done if you don't mess up. No room.

It is easier to buy the lengths and adapters and make it but if money is tight a hydraulic shop can use your old fitting to make a new line for under $25 plus parts.

 

7/16-24 is the tube nut size, not the line size.
Is your flaring tool a 45deg or 37 deg flaring tool?

 

Mine is a kit, with two replaceable tips. One 45deg and one 37deg.

 

so you swap the cone to make either a 45 or 37 deg. flare?

 

Yep. It'll do single and double flares, and comes with a variety of seats so I can flare a multiple range of soft metal tubing, and a few sizes of hard metal tubing. It's a very trick kit. It has done very well for me, and was made here in the US.

 

seats? what's different about the soft and hard metal ones? which kit is it?

 

Yeah, the seats that have a small nipple that's fitted to different sized tubing. It'll do hard metal but they need to be smaller diameter or they will crack. Or so I was told.

 

My cheap little Chinese-made Harbor Freight flaring tool makes nice double flares. I've made quite a few brake lines with it, and the first one I made was the only one that has leaked. Once I figured out what I did wrong, it's been fine.

 

You didn't go down long enough and the flare was not at the right angle right?

 

Your cheap chinese thing only does 45 degree flares (ordinary brake and fuel system flares), not 37. Only the cheap summit thing does 37 degree single flares.

The nipple is a flare button, it pre formes the flare into a <> shape so you can then go in with the flare cone and fold the upper part in to create your double flare.

one of the cheapest 37 degree double flaring tools is the tool from imperial eastman and the I E 400F is a better tool as it also does stainless.

I call BS on the kit that does both type of flares because you would need 2 flare cones, a 37 and 45 degrees and 2 sets of flaring dies and also 2 sets of flare buttons if you want to do double flares, so in essence you now have 2 seperate flaring sets minus the vise.

 

Call BS on whatever you like. This thread is not about who has the better flaring tool, and all you had to say fifteen posts ago was that you wanted to win the contest. Yes, you have the mother of all flaring tools, and regardless of ours working just fine for everything we have done...they will never measure up.

That's fine, I can accept that if you can.

 

It's about providing false info, telling people they can flare their stock line for use with AN fittings... HOW? First they have to buy a proper double flaring tool that does 37 degree flares, the cheap chinese one isn't going to cut it, summit's thing only does single flares. The stock tubing is NOT seamless and thus a single flare will leak, guaranteed. THAT is what this is all about, so that otehrs don't start cutting up their stock lines in the hope that they can flare it, which they can NOT without spending at least 400$ on a proper tool. your info is a danger to anyone working on these cars, will you pick up the tab for new lines after they cut theirs up and discover it's now completely useless?? It's not about who has the best tools mister, it's about who has the PROPER tool for the job, there's a world of difference.

 

I said the old line could be used to make the new line to the Hydrobooster. I never said for them to do it them selves and I think I even mentioned that they should have it made at a hydraulic shop, where they would have NO PROBLEM flaring it correctly.

Also, just because you say my flaring kit is BS doesn't mean I'm providing bad info. It just means you don't trust people and you want to listen to your own opinion even after you've asked someone something. Why do you even ask me anything at all when your first response is it's BS.

 

Right... So.. you have to cut your old one and then they can use that to make a new one, when in all reality they have all the tools to make a brand new one from scratch? RIGHT!!!!!

 

Does it say for them to flare it themselves? NOPE.

 

read above

 

Up until the start of this thread, the adapter was hard to find. The stock line has the fitting already on it. Using the old line, flaring it for a new fitting, and attaching a new line to that new flare and fitting will get around having to find the mystery fitting.

Now, I have not provided any false info, and all you seem to want to do is pick fights and argue. So go ahead, finish this and get the last words in. I don't want your trouble to lock another thread or get you banned. Just accept that people have the choice of buying the adapter from Summit, or using the end of their stock line and have a new line made out of it.

 

the valve uses a standard 45 degree flare nut, nothing fancy. You write these articles but clearly haven't done this yourself or you would know that the fitting that is hard to find is on the HYDROBOOSTER side, it's the pump return fitting, which uses a BOLT thread It's that tiny 5/16-24 o ring sealed one and one only way to do it is to buy a fitting or find a box with the stock line on it, this is not the line on the steering valve, it's the return to pump. So, now people start cutting the stock control valve line for what? For a fitting that's not even there?

I couldn't get that adapter here either (even though aeroquip hydraulic supplies clearly lists it in the master catalog) so I cut the old fitting off (that came w/ the line supplied w/ the box) and tig welded a -4 AN fitting on it. It was however not hard to find up to the start of this thread, hydratech has been selling it for quite some time and everyone who has the aeroquip master catalog will be able to find it also.

So, I will get banned for cleaning up your mistakes? But that was jus what I was suspecting, that you were trying to lure some of us into saying something to get us sent to camp. I didn't say anything that I am not allowed to say, or can we not clean up errors? If so, we'll all have to tell that 1980 guy that he can't install a big block in his car cuz you said so.