Cam mechanics, need advice!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
what makes you think we still don't! 
still, interesting info. i did no such thing with the double roller i just installed in my roller motor. since the subject hadn't come up at the time, i never inspected the rollers but i sure don't recall them being split, as i think that would have caught my attention.
granted the split may last just as long, for the 1 out of 1000 odds, wouldn't you rather just spend the extra $10-20 on the solid rollers?
and regarding what you mentioned about the chain slop and landing high on the teeth, on disassembly of the early engine, half the teeth were missing from my cam sprocket. this was on an aftermarket "budget performance" set from summit that was less than 20k miles old. the mileage isn't what gets it, it's the rapping the engine up to 5-6000rpm for long periods of time that did it. so something for you to remember if you're building a high hp/ high rpm small block is make sure both gears are steel. many sets use a cast iron cam gear, they go away after a while.
still, interesting info. i did no such thing with the double roller i just installed in my roller motor. since the subject hadn't come up at the time, i never inspected the rollers but i sure don't recall them being split, as i think that would have caught my attention.
granted the split may last just as long, for the 1 out of 1000 odds, wouldn't you rather just spend the extra $10-20 on the solid rollers?
and regarding what you mentioned about the chain slop and landing high on the teeth, on disassembly of the early engine, half the teeth were missing from my cam sprocket. this was on an aftermarket "budget performance" set from summit that was less than 20k miles old. the mileage isn't what gets it, it's the rapping the engine up to 5-6000rpm for long periods of time that did it. so something for you to remember if you're building a high hp/ high rpm small block is make sure both gears are steel. many sets use a cast iron cam gear, they go away after a while.
Solids are better quality chains.
Melling Engine Parts' Dan Bass says "Most of the high performance units get away from the silent type and go with a roller design. You can go with two designs. The Standard design means the roller does not roll on the chain and is pressed in place on the pin. The British design works with the roller portion of the chain actually rotating on its axis on the chain.
From there, you can get a seamed or seamless roller portion of the chain. From what I've seen, most builders go with the seamless type and most people think they are the most rugged. Most of the more expensive timing sets will include a seamless set up. You're probably going to get more even roller-to-sprocket contact with a roller."
From there, you can get a seamed or seamless roller portion of the chain. From what I've seen, most builders go with the seamless type and most people think they are the most rugged. Most of the more expensive timing sets will include a seamless set up. You're probably going to get more even roller-to-sprocket contact with a roller."
