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Front Driveshaft removal from Differential

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Default Front Driveshaft removal from Differential

Can someone tell me HOW to remove the driveshaft FROM the differential on an 80' ? I have the shop manual but I am not clear on what it is telling me .... I cannot remove the center bolt as I cannot get behind to hold onto the bolt to remove the nut & the driveshaft is still connected so there is not much room.

I have everything else OFF, except for X-member & driveshaft and the FRONT bolt that holds DIFF to center frame cross.

Taking out the differential so that I can have 3 broken leaf spring mounting plate bolts drilled out and removed AND a drain plug installed.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 04:44 PM
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I took the bolts off the straps on the U-Joints front and rear, Use a 1/4" 12pt socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet, might need an extension
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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Transmission in neutral and rear wheels off the ground?

You should be able to rotate the driveshaft by spinning wheel, to a spot where you have easier access.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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Default Did you remove entire driveshaft then?

So you disconnected it both in the Tranny and at the differential?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:16 PM
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The wheel shafts are already off the wheel ......
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tomard
So you disconnected it both in the Tranny and at the differential?
Yes.

I did the tranny first. Makes rotating the differential easier.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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i'm not clear on what you're asking.
are you removing the drive shaft from the differential yoke?
or are you removing the front bolt on the differential tongue?
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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I think this is what everyone is saying, but having just done it last week, let me try to make things clearer. Unbolt it from the tranny first so you can move it around. Get a 1/4" 12 point socket (got mine at Sears), a ratchet and two long extensions. Reach back down the tunnel and you should be able to unbolt it from the yoke. God bless, Sensei
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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I will do exactly that either LATE tonight when I get home or tomorrow .... Thanks much ....

P.S - do you have your HEAT SHIELD that screws into the strut assembly under the spring? I need to get a template so I can have one made .....

At what point does the cover/crossmember open up, so I can drain the old fluid? I have all the bolts out but it seems tight??????
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by clutchdust
i'm not clear on what you're asking.
are you removing the drive shaft from the differential yoke?
or are you removing the front bolt on the differential tongue?
I am trying to remove it at the diff yoke - will try to remove shaft from tranny first and see if I have enough room to get in there that way.

Another question: why "mark" the shafts? They seem to be same size any which way ..... and unless one side is somehow heavier than other so that there would be a "balance" issue, I don't understand what that is all about ......
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 08:33 AM
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Default heavy duty cover

tomard,
Rather than re-drill your stripped holes, for about $70 (I think) you can get a heavy duty cast iron rear cover that should make it impossible for the threads to strip again. If I was going to all that trouble to pull the diff out, that's what I'd do.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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What vendor would I get that from? The holes that I am talking about are the 3 bolts that hold the Leaf spring mounting plate (that holds spring up in place), that looks like it is part of x-member.

Is the rear diff cover and xmember 1 piece or 2 ???
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