Dash lights won't work
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 9
From: staten island ny
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,353
Likes: 787
From: Redondo Beach, California
Defective headlight switch?
The headlight switch also contains a wire-wound reostat (old fashioned word for an electrical potentiometer). It often (eventually) will burn out (open circuit), this causes the dimmer function to fail. However, even if the wire is burn out, the gauge lights should still operate at maximum intensity. Turn the headlight switch to the maximum clockwise position (or is it maximum counterclockwise). If the wiper on the reostat is ok, you will get the lamps to glow at maximum intensity. However if the wiper on the reostat is burn out (open citcuit), there will be no power to the lights regardless of where the headlight switch is rotated too. A failed headlight switch wiper is a possible cause of your problem.
...........
My reostat wire burnt out on my 68. This wire can get very hot, as evidenced by heat damaged discoloration on the headlight switch connector. I installed a new NOS switch. I replaced my center consol gauge lights with LED's to reduce current draw and hopefully heat loading on my new reostat. I left incandescent lights in the speed and tach. (The stock dimmer function will not work with all LED's.)
The headlight switch also contains a wire-wound reostat (old fashioned word for an electrical potentiometer). It often (eventually) will burn out (open circuit), this causes the dimmer function to fail. However, even if the wire is burn out, the gauge lights should still operate at maximum intensity. Turn the headlight switch to the maximum clockwise position (or is it maximum counterclockwise). If the wiper on the reostat is ok, you will get the lamps to glow at maximum intensity. However if the wiper on the reostat is burn out (open citcuit), there will be no power to the lights regardless of where the headlight switch is rotated too. A failed headlight switch wiper is a possible cause of your problem.
...........
My reostat wire burnt out on my 68. This wire can get very hot, as evidenced by heat damaged discoloration on the headlight switch connector. I installed a new NOS switch. I replaced my center consol gauge lights with LED's to reduce current draw and hopefully heat loading on my new reostat. I left incandescent lights in the speed and tach. (The stock dimmer function will not work with all LED's.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 269
From: S.E. MI
St. Jude Donor '15
I had the same problem no blown fuses and the switch was good. I was losing power on the wire feeding the dash lights. I just ran a jumper wire from the fuse block to the dash lights. There is a terminal on the fuse block that is for the dash lights.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Defective headlight switch?
The headlight switch also contains a wire-wound reostat (old fashioned word for an electrical potentiometer). It often (eventually) will burn out (open circuit), this causes the dimmer function to fail. However, even if the wire is burn out, the gauge lights should still operate at maximum intensity. Turn the headlight switch to the maximum clockwise position (or is it maximum counterclockwise). If the wiper on the reostat is ok, you will get the lamps to glow at maximum intensity. However if the wiper on the reostat is burn out (open citcuit), there will be no power to the lights regardless of where the headlight switch is rotated too. A failed headlight switch wiper is a possible cause of your problem.
...........
My reostat wire burnt out on my 68. This wire can get very hot, as evidenced by heat damaged discoloration on the headlight switch connector. I installed a new NOS switch. I replaced my center consol gauge lights with LED's to reduce current draw and hopefully heat loading on my new reostat. I left incandescent lights in the speed and tach. (The stock dimmer function will not work with all LED's.)
The headlight switch also contains a wire-wound reostat (old fashioned word for an electrical potentiometer). It often (eventually) will burn out (open circuit), this causes the dimmer function to fail. However, even if the wire is burn out, the gauge lights should still operate at maximum intensity. Turn the headlight switch to the maximum clockwise position (or is it maximum counterclockwise). If the wiper on the reostat is ok, you will get the lamps to glow at maximum intensity. However if the wiper on the reostat is burn out (open citcuit), there will be no power to the lights regardless of where the headlight switch is rotated too. A failed headlight switch wiper is a possible cause of your problem.
...........
My reostat wire burnt out on my 68. This wire can get very hot, as evidenced by heat damaged discoloration on the headlight switch connector. I installed a new NOS switch. I replaced my center consol gauge lights with LED's to reduce current draw and hopefully heat loading on my new reostat. I left incandescent lights in the speed and tach. (The stock dimmer function will not work with all LED's.)
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
