Be Cool Radiator kits
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From: Santee CA
Be Cool Radiator kits
So, I was looking at buying a Be Cool aluminum radiator and electric fan kit, as our radiator is completely trashed (there's burn marks on it where it looks like sections of it got overheated, the drain plug on it disintegrated when my dad tried to take it out, and the bottom of the radiator shows serious corrosion and leaking). We also have the radiator support that holds it up in pieces, as there were rust holes in it that basically caused it to snap in half when we were pulling it out of the car.
My questions for those who have installed one:
1) Do I need to shell out the $300+ for a new radiator support, or do the Be Cool kits come with everything I need to mount this sucker in? I'm not looking forward to shelling out $1200 for the Be Cool kit and then having to spend another $300+ for a radiator support.
2) Where would I tap in the wiring for the fans?
My questions for those who have installed one:
1) Do I need to shell out the $300+ for a new radiator support, or do the Be Cool kits come with everything I need to mount this sucker in? I'm not looking forward to shelling out $1200 for the Be Cool kit and then having to spend another $300+ for a radiator support.
2) Where would I tap in the wiring for the fans?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
It sounds like you do need to replace the radiator mount to have a safe reliable install. BeCool is a very expensive option. I used a DeWitt radiator and am very pleased with it. They have spall fans to go with them too and I believe you will save some money! Several have used Lincoln Mark VIII fans with great success too that can be had in salvage yards for less that $100.00. There are several places to get 12 volt power. I would pull a wire from the alt to a buss bar and use a relay.
Good luck!
Bernie
Good luck!
Bernie
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
I just finished putting in a new radiator support this winter, but my radiator just needed a pinhole fixed. If I were you, or if I would have needed the radiator too, I would have sprung for the Be Cool. If for no other reason to get the shroud out of there.
I ran into a friend with a 65 vert (driver)at a recent car show and he had a Be Cool w/fan installed. Told me that regardless of what time of the year it was, the thing ran 160. WOW! Looked really good too. Lots more room.
Believe me, spring for the $300 and replace the support, they're known to rust out. I would also go for the Be Cool w/fan, that shroud is no easy task getting back in. Gets rid of a lot of stuff too, shroud, fan blade.
As far as the wiring, It's probably no big deal.
I ran into a friend with a 65 vert (driver)at a recent car show and he had a Be Cool w/fan installed. Told me that regardless of what time of the year it was, the thing ran 160. WOW! Looked really good too. Lots more room.
Believe me, spring for the $300 and replace the support, they're known to rust out. I would also go for the Be Cool w/fan, that shroud is no easy task getting back in. Gets rid of a lot of stuff too, shroud, fan blade.
As far as the wiring, It's probably no big deal.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
i originally purchased a be cool aluminium radiator and a support from ecklers. the mounting studs on the bottom did not line up, there was a 1/2 inch difference in the spacing. also the water outlet on the bottom of the radiator made contact with the frame. sent it back and got a support from dr rebuild and a dewitts, and they fit perfectly.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Here is a link for our radiator/fan combinations
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...s.asp?catID=15
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...s.asp?catID=15
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Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
I just finished putting in a new radiator support this winter, but my radiator just needed a pinhole fixed. If I were you, or if I would have needed the radiator too, I would have sprung for the Be Cool. If for no other reason to get the shroud out of there.
I ran into a friend with a 65 vert (driver)at a recent car show and he had a Be Cool w/fan installed. Told me that regardless of what time of the year it was, the thing ran 160. WOW! Looked really good too. Lots more room.
Believe me, spring for the $300 and replace the support, they're known to rust out. I would also go for the Be Cool w/fan, that shroud is no easy task getting back in. Gets rid of a lot of stuff too, shroud, fan blade.
As far as the wiring, It's probably no big deal.
I ran into a friend with a 65 vert (driver)at a recent car show and he had a Be Cool w/fan installed. Told me that regardless of what time of the year it was, the thing ran 160. WOW! Looked really good too. Lots more room.
Believe me, spring for the $300 and replace the support, they're known to rust out. I would also go for the Be Cool w/fan, that shroud is no easy task getting back in. Gets rid of a lot of stuff too, shroud, fan blade.
As far as the wiring, It's probably no big deal.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 0
From: Santee CA
Well, I spoke with the man in charge of the checkbook (wait...I forgot to add 2 letters to that: it should read "wo"man) and it looks like we're going to go with a DeWitt radiator (as soon as we can get the cash together, that is...Taxes were not kind to our household).
My father, a space systems engineer (he builds and designs parts that go onto rockets) is working on a piece that will go in to replace the original radiator support. Since we've got a nice welder in the garage, he's going to weld something up that will be able to hold up to the torque and keep that front end together...He said he wants to do this because he can't justify shelling out $330 to Eckler's or Zip for the radiator support when he has the know how and the tools to do it for around $100.
My father, a space systems engineer (he builds and designs parts that go onto rockets) is working on a piece that will go in to replace the original radiator support. Since we've got a nice welder in the garage, he's going to weld something up that will be able to hold up to the torque and keep that front end together...He said he wants to do this because he can't justify shelling out $330 to Eckler's or Zip for the radiator support when he has the know how and the tools to do it for around $100.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Here is a recap on who does what.....
Griffin (hand tig welded, pressed form tanks, and epoxied)
Be-Cool (machined mig welded, box tanks, no epoxy)
Northern (machine migh welded, formed tanks, no epoxy)
DeWitts (Hand tig welded, pressed tanks, GM channels, and no epoxy)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
Not sure I agree with the bearing temperature/180 degree thing though. Thermal expansion/running clearance isn't going to know that little of a difference. Also, the engine is generating enough heat/friction to keep the bearing surfaces where they're designed to run at. The cooler the block is kept, the more HP you get and the better mileage too!
I'm not a know-it-all by any stretch, just my $.02
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
I just installed a set of Toms' Dual Spals....they move some air...
and I will report what happens with my cheepie GM type replacement radiator in there, later this summer when 'ts 100 f outside, and I do a freeway run and idle stop/go throug traffic a bit, with a/c on....
I may well need more radiator....but I damn sure going to give it a shot...
and I will report what happens with my cheepie GM type replacement radiator in there, later this summer when 'ts 100 f outside, and I do a freeway run and idle stop/go throug traffic a bit, with a/c on....
I may well need more radiator....but I damn sure going to give it a shot...
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
It's really about removing the condensation that builds up in the oil pan. 160 is not hot enough to vaporize any water and you can get excessive water build up. Therefore, I agree, everyone should run a 180 stat.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Actually it's Griffin that uses the epoxy, not Be-cool.
Here is a recap on who does what.....
Griffin (hand tig welded, pressed form tanks, and epoxied)
Be-Cool (machined mig welded, box tanks, no epoxy)
Northern (machine migh welded, formed tanks, no epoxy)
DeWitts (Hand tig welded, pressed tanks, GM channels, and no epoxy)
Here is a recap on who does what.....
Griffin (hand tig welded, pressed form tanks, and epoxied)
Be-Cool (machined mig welded, box tanks, no epoxy)
Northern (machine migh welded, formed tanks, no epoxy)
DeWitts (Hand tig welded, pressed tanks, GM channels, and no epoxy)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,855
Likes: 2
From: Grovetown GA
In the process of wiring in an electric radiator fan - where are some "clean" installation tie ins for the battery and ignition wires for the relay?
Also any recommendations for a underhood location for the relay. The fan wires come off on the driver's side.
Photos of above a real plus!
thanks
jeff
Also any recommendations for a underhood location for the relay. The fan wires come off on the driver's side.
Photos of above a real plus!
thanks
jeff