remote starter solenoid location
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: Hartland WI
remote starter solenoid location
I ordered the following kit from Jegs for a remote starter solenoid..
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...50789_-1_10395
Trying to cure some problems I have with hot starts. Thought I would try this before buying an expensive mini-starter. For those of you that have this where did you mount the solenoid? I'm looking for the most convenient location with a minimal amount of wire cutting/etc. Trying to avoid having it look like a bird's nest under my hood. Any suggestions? Pictures always appreciated
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...50789_-1_10395
Trying to cure some problems I have with hot starts. Thought I would try this before buying an expensive mini-starter. For those of you that have this where did you mount the solenoid? I'm looking for the most convenient location with a minimal amount of wire cutting/etc. Trying to avoid having it look like a bird's nest under my hood. Any suggestions? Pictures always appreciated
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,477
Likes: 1,495
From: Little Rock AR
You need to be sure the solenoid is attached to a good ground.
The small purple wire can be re-routed uncut directly to the small "S" terminal on the new relay as long as you mount it close enough.
You can fab up the other (2) wires from stuff in the kit. One end is added to the fat hot terminal on the starter while the other end goes to one of the fat terminals on the new relay. The other fabbed wire runs from the second fat terminal on the relay back down to the starter and attaches where the small purple wire used to be.
No original wire harness modifications this way.
You turn the key, that sends power to the relay which energizes the circuit to send a full 12V to the solenoid. The solenoid now has enough juice to push the bendix into the flywheel and energize the stater motor.
Your directions may be somewhat different but this the way I do it. No copper strip is required. Just wire, terminals, and a Ford relay.
-Mark.
The small purple wire can be re-routed uncut directly to the small "S" terminal on the new relay as long as you mount it close enough.
You can fab up the other (2) wires from stuff in the kit. One end is added to the fat hot terminal on the starter while the other end goes to one of the fat terminals on the new relay. The other fabbed wire runs from the second fat terminal on the relay back down to the starter and attaches where the small purple wire used to be.
No original wire harness modifications this way.
You turn the key, that sends power to the relay which energizes the circuit to send a full 12V to the solenoid. The solenoid now has enough juice to push the bendix into the flywheel and energize the stater motor.
Your directions may be somewhat different but this the way I do it. No copper strip is required. Just wire, terminals, and a Ford relay.
-Mark.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: Hartland WI
After looking around my engine bay I think I found a good place to mount the solenoid with minimal wire cutting. Problem is that area of the engine compartment is fiberglass. Can I ground the solenoid by running say a 14-16 gauge wire from one of the mounting screws to the frame or a bellhousing bolt or something? Would this be adequate to ground the solenoid or would I need a larger gauge?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,477
Likes: 1,495
From: Little Rock AR
After looking around my engine bay I think I found a good place to mount the solenoid with minimal wire cutting. Problem is that area of the engine compartment is fiberglass. Can I ground the solenoid by running say a 14-16 gauge wire from one of the mounting screws to the frame or a bellhousing bolt or something? Would this be adequate to ground the solenoid or would I need a larger gauge?
I use the relay only for the 12V signal to the GM solenoid. Not much power going through it that way so you can use all small gauge wire with minimal modifications. If your starter will crank using a screwdriver across the starter terminals when it will not crank using the key, this setup works fine and is preferred IMHO.
If you use the relay the same way Ford does, then the cables on the large relay terminals need to be the same guage as the battery cables (heavy). The relay ground wire need not be that heavy. Maybe 12 ga stranded copper would do it. Use the same guage as the purple wire. This setup has all the power to drive the starter flowing through the Ford relay and down to the GM starter motor. Just another way to skin the cat. This requires more big wire and more modifications
-Mark.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: Hartland WI
You need to be sure the solenoid is attached to a good ground.
The small purple wire can be re-routed uncut directly to the small "S" terminal on the new relay as long as you mount it close enough.
You can fab up the other (2) wires from stuff in the kit. One end is added to the fat hot terminal on the starter while the other end goes to one of the fat terminals on the new relay. The other fabbed wire runs from the second fat terminal on the relay back down to the starter and attaches where the small purple wire used to be.
No original wire harness modifications this way.
You turn the key, that sends power to the relay which energizes the circuit to send a full 12V to the solenoid. The solenoid now has enough juice to push the bendix into the flywheel and energize the stater motor.
Your directions may be somewhat different but this the way I do it. No copper strip is required. Just wire, terminals, and a Ford relay.
-Mark.
The small purple wire can be re-routed uncut directly to the small "S" terminal on the new relay as long as you mount it close enough.
You can fab up the other (2) wires from stuff in the kit. One end is added to the fat hot terminal on the starter while the other end goes to one of the fat terminals on the new relay. The other fabbed wire runs from the second fat terminal on the relay back down to the starter and attaches where the small purple wire used to be.
No original wire harness modifications this way.
You turn the key, that sends power to the relay which energizes the circuit to send a full 12V to the solenoid. The solenoid now has enough juice to push the bendix into the flywheel and energize the stater motor.
Your directions may be somewhat different but this the way I do it. No copper strip is required. Just wire, terminals, and a Ford relay.
-Mark.
Right now I have 2 wires on my main batt connection. One, obviously is the main power. The other has a fusible link. I'm not sure where that one goes. Would I just leave that in place using your method?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,477
Likes: 1,495
From: Little Rock AR
Let me see if I'm understanding you correctly. What you do is leave the main batt wire on the starter mounted solenoid. You remove the S wire and mount it on the new remote solenoid at the S terminal. You fab 2 wires. One goes from one of the large terminals on the remote solenoid and back to the big batt connection on the starter solenoid. the other goes from the other large terminal on the remote solenoid back to where s connection on the starter solenoid. Correct so far?
Right now I have 2 wires on my main batt connection. One, obviously is the main power. The other has a fusible link. I'm not sure where that one goes. Would I just leave that in place using your method?
Right now I have 2 wires on my main batt connection. One, obviously is the main power. The other has a fusible link. I'm not sure where that one goes. Would I just leave that in place using your method?
BTW - Be sure you do not use the metal strap that comes in the kit if you wire it this way.
-Mark.
