igntion switch will not return to off position
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Burnaby BC
1). Yes the big tooth does match if it could get to that point. The big tooth gets to 4: 30 or 5 o clock.
2). Yes I just bought a new switch and both the old and new look good, I think it is something in the bottom collor that is wrong. Should it bulge when I shift and should it also rotate in one direction only?
Thanks so much.
2). Yes I just bought a new switch and both the old and new look good, I think it is something in the bottom collor that is wrong. Should it bulge when I shift and should it also rotate in one direction only?
Thanks so much.
Two things that come to mind.
1). Does the big tooth on the plastic sector gear match up to the big tooth pocket on the die cast rack? The sector gear teeth have to match the rack.
2). Are you sure that the ignition switch is adjusted correctly. There really isn't that much adjustment available in the slots on the switch bracket but possibly this might be the problem.
Jim
1). Does the big tooth on the plastic sector gear match up to the big tooth pocket on the die cast rack? The sector gear teeth have to match the rack.
2). Are you sure that the ignition switch is adjusted correctly. There really isn't that much adjustment available in the slots on the switch bracket but possibly this might be the problem.
Jim
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Mine would lock,but not go into ACC... adjusted the rod to the ignition switch...(Manual tranny)...real pita to do in vette...
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...InstrPage2.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...InstrPage2.doc
Last edited by rihwoods; May 10, 2007 at 12:31 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Here is a blowup of your T&T column.
The ignition switch rod #38 has a cast end (called a coupling). The coupling has a small pin that engages the die cast rack #37.
The Lock Tube Housing #58 has a gate inside of it that only allows the coupling end of switch rod #38 to pass all the way through it when it is rotated all the way counterclockwise (lower lever in full up position.) This allows you to rotate your ignition key and rotate the sector so that the coupling is pushed down. This allows you to rotate all the way to OFF-LOCK.
The bulge that you are reporting has to be the coupling hitting the closed gate in the Lock Tube Housing.
Could the lower lever just have rust and corrosion that is preventing it from reaching the full UP position?
Jim
The ignition switch rod #38 has a cast end (called a coupling). The coupling has a small pin that engages the die cast rack #37.
The Lock Tube Housing #58 has a gate inside of it that only allows the coupling end of switch rod #38 to pass all the way through it when it is rotated all the way counterclockwise (lower lever in full up position.) This allows you to rotate your ignition key and rotate the sector so that the coupling is pushed down. This allows you to rotate all the way to OFF-LOCK.
The bulge that you are reporting has to be the coupling hitting the closed gate in the Lock Tube Housing.
Could the lower lever just have rust and corrosion that is preventing it from reaching the full UP position?
Jim
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Burnaby BC
I soaked it last night in wd40 so I hope to have time to fix it tonight.
Am I correct that it is 3 1/2 inch head bolts looking down the column that need to be unscrewed to get into the lock tube housing?
The good thing is now that I have the dash apart I can change the light bulbs and dash glass(plastic) that are pretty beat up or dead.
Thanks I will keep you posted
Am I correct that it is 3 1/2 inch head bolts looking down the column that need to be unscrewed to get into the lock tube housing?
The good thing is now that I have the dash apart I can change the light bulbs and dash glass(plastic) that are pretty beat up or dead.
Thanks I will keep you posted
Here is a blowup of your T&T column.
The ignition switch rod #38 has a cast end (called a coupling). The coupling has a small pin that engages the die cast rack #37.
The Lock Tube Housing #58 has a gate inside of it that only allows the coupling end of switch rod #38 to pass all the way through it when it is rotated all the way counterclockwise (lower lever in full up position.) This allows you to rotate your ignition key and rotate the sector so that the coupling is pushed down. This allows you to rotate all the way to OFF-LOCK.
The bulge that you are reporting has to be the coupling hitting the closed gate in the Lock Tube Housing.
Could the lower lever just have rust and corrosion that is preventing it from reaching the full UP position?
Jim
The ignition switch rod #38 has a cast end (called a coupling). The coupling has a small pin that engages the die cast rack #37.
The Lock Tube Housing #58 has a gate inside of it that only allows the coupling end of switch rod #38 to pass all the way through it when it is rotated all the way counterclockwise (lower lever in full up position.) This allows you to rotate your ignition key and rotate the sector so that the coupling is pushed down. This allows you to rotate all the way to OFF-LOCK.
The bulge that you are reporting has to be the coupling hitting the closed gate in the Lock Tube Housing.
Could the lower lever just have rust and corrosion that is preventing it from reaching the full UP position?
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
You have to remove the Tilt Spring #17. Then pull the two Pivot Pins #35. Then walk the Bearing Housing #24 off of the steering shaft. Then you will have access to the four Screws #48 that hold the Bearing Housing Support #49 to the Support Plate Lock#55.
Then you will have be able to view the connection of the Shift Tube #66 to the Lock Tube Housing #58. The two parts are press fit together. I do not know of a good way to disassemble these two parts. In most cases you will severly damage the shift tube trying to get them apart.
Jim
Then you will have be able to view the connection of the Shift Tube #66 to the Lock Tube Housing #58. The two parts are press fit together. I do not know of a good way to disassemble these two parts. In most cases you will severly damage the shift tube trying to get them apart.
Jim
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Burnaby BC
Jim I am looking at the spring and it looks as if the last time buddy tried to fix this he messed up the spring retainer. From the pictures it looks like I should have a slot to turn the spring out is this correct?
The slot is now a circle or oval, can you tell me how much pressure is needed to spin the spring retainer out and if I need to push it as I turn?
I might have to destroy it more to get it out now.
I will call the local corvette shop and get a new used one from the junker cars when I am reassembling the column.
The slot is now a circle or oval, can you tell me how much pressure is needed to spin the spring retainer out and if I need to push it as I turn?
I might have to destroy it more to get it out now.
I will call the local corvette shop and get a new used one from the junker cars when I am reassembling the column.
You have to remove the Tilt Spring #17. Then pull the two Pivot Pins #35. Then walk the Bearing Housing #24 off of the steering shaft. Then you will have access to the four Screws #48 that hold the Bearing Housing Support #49 to the Support Plate Lock#55.
Then you will have be able to view the connection of the Shift Tube #66 to the Lock Tube Housing #58. The two parts are press fit together. I do not know of a good way to disassemble these two parts. In most cases you will severly damage the shift tube trying to get them apart.
Jim
Then you will have be able to view the connection of the Shift Tube #66 to the Lock Tube Housing #58. The two parts are press fit together. I do not know of a good way to disassemble these two parts. In most cases you will severly damage the shift tube trying to get them apart.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
From Page #2 of my T&T Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #3.
Remove Tilt Spring - Description #5
Replace the tilt lever and place the column in the full “up” position.
Caution: The Spring #16 is quite powerful, without the steering wheel to counterbalance its force, the column head can spring upward with a lot of energy.
Remove the Tilt Lever Spring Retainer #16 using a tool that just fits into the slot opening. Note, the picture on page #6 shows a screwdriver blade being inserted into the retainer slot for removal/installation. Early retainers have a slot, later retainers have a square hole. A medium size Phillips bit will fit the square shape quite well.
Caution: The spring is compressed with a lot of force. Press squarely on the retainer and press in approximately 3/16 inch, turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the Retainer, Spring, and Guide #18.
Remove Tilt Spring - Description #5
Replace the tilt lever and place the column in the full “up” position.
Caution: The Spring #16 is quite powerful, without the steering wheel to counterbalance its force, the column head can spring upward with a lot of energy.
Remove the Tilt Lever Spring Retainer #16 using a tool that just fits into the slot opening. Note, the picture on page #6 shows a screwdriver blade being inserted into the retainer slot for removal/installation. Early retainers have a slot, later retainers have a square hole. A medium size Phillips bit will fit the square shape quite well.
Caution: The spring is compressed with a lot of force. Press squarely on the retainer and press in approximately 3/16 inch, turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the Retainer, Spring, and Guide #18.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Burnaby BC
Thanks I will try this weekend if I can. Mothersday and all I am booked up. It is a shame to have the car like this when it is so sunny.
All the best
All the best
From Page #2 of my T&T Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #3.
Remove Tilt Spring - Description #5
Replace the tilt lever and place the column in the full “up” position.
Caution: The Spring #16 is quite powerful, without the steering wheel to counterbalance its force, the column head can spring upward with a lot of energy.
Remove the Tilt Lever Spring Retainer #16 using a tool that just fits into the slot opening. Note, the picture on page #6 shows a screwdriver blade being inserted into the retainer slot for removal/installation. Early retainers have a slot, later retainers have a square hole. A medium size Phillips bit will fit the square shape quite well.
Caution: The spring is compressed with a lot of force. Press squarely on the retainer and press in approximately 3/16 inch, turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the Retainer, Spring, and Guide #18.
Remove Tilt Spring - Description #5
Replace the tilt lever and place the column in the full “up” position.
Caution: The Spring #16 is quite powerful, without the steering wheel to counterbalance its force, the column head can spring upward with a lot of energy.
Remove the Tilt Lever Spring Retainer #16 using a tool that just fits into the slot opening. Note, the picture on page #6 shows a screwdriver blade being inserted into the retainer slot for removal/installation. Early retainers have a slot, later retainers have a square hole. A medium size Phillips bit will fit the square shape quite well.
Caution: The spring is compressed with a lot of force. Press squarely on the retainer and press in approximately 3/16 inch, turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the Retainer, Spring, and Guide #18.
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Mission TX
The cable will not return back to the lock position when put into reverse. I have to manually lift by hand. Where can I get a replacement cable or can this one be fixed? TIA
The GM part no. 3949073 shows to be DCed.
The GM part no. 3949073 shows to be DCed.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
From: ElP TX
http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/sear...=false&GiftID=
Last edited by GlockGuy; May 13, 2007 at 07:58 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
cc
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 306
Likes: 1
From: Burnaby BC
Thanks Jim I took it all apart and found that the cable was kinked in the housing, I fixed it, cleaned up every piece like new used locktite in places and geased others and now the column is like new. I even repainted it while apart. 
Now this motivated me to clean and repair everything in the dash since I have it all apart.
Thanks again for all your help
Now this motivated me to clean and repair everything in the dash since I have it all apart.
Thanks again for all your help
From Page #2 of my T&T Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #3.
Remove Tilt Spring - Description #5
Replace the tilt lever and place the column in the full “up” position.
Caution: The Spring #16 is quite powerful, without the steering wheel to counterbalance its force, the column head can spring upward with a lot of energy.
Remove the Tilt Lever Spring Retainer #16 using a tool that just fits into the slot opening. Note, the picture on page #6 shows a screwdriver blade being inserted into the retainer slot for removal/installation. Early retainers have a slot, later retainers have a square hole. A medium size Phillips bit will fit the square shape quite well.
Caution: The spring is compressed with a lot of force. Press squarely on the retainer and press in approximately 3/16 inch, turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the Retainer, Spring, and Guide #18.
Remove Tilt Spring - Description #5
Replace the tilt lever and place the column in the full “up” position.
Caution: The Spring #16 is quite powerful, without the steering wheel to counterbalance its force, the column head can spring upward with a lot of energy.
Remove the Tilt Lever Spring Retainer #16 using a tool that just fits into the slot opening. Note, the picture on page #6 shows a screwdriver blade being inserted into the retainer slot for removal/installation. Early retainers have a slot, later retainers have a square hole. A medium size Phillips bit will fit the square shape quite well.
Caution: The spring is compressed with a lot of force. Press squarely on the retainer and press in approximately 3/16 inch, turn 1/8 turn counterclockwise until the ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the Retainer, Spring, and Guide #18.
