The pedal brackets just aren't accessible without these items removed.
Keisler 5spd conversion - pedals
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Keisler 5spd conversion - pedals
Who has done it ?? Who has removed the auto pedal and installed the clutch/brake pedal for the 5spd conversion ?? Please share your experience....
I removed the five nuts that seem to connect the pedal bracket to the firewall.... brake booster is loose but doesn't come out....
I think I need to drop the steering column for better access....
I removed the five nuts that seem to connect the pedal bracket to the firewall.... brake booster is loose but doesn't come out....
I think I need to drop the steering column for better access....
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Intermediate
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
To get mine off the 76, I removed four bolts that you access from up top in the winshield wiper well and the four from the brake booster. I took my column out. I had replaced my brake booster without removing the column before so I did not want to mess around this time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 3
From: Tennessee
Who has done it ?? Who has removed the auto pedal and installed the clutch/brake pedal for the 5spd conversion ?? Please share your experience....
I removed the five nuts that seem to connect the pedal bracket to the firewall.... brake booster is loose but doesn't come out....
I think I need to drop the steering column for better access....
I removed the five nuts that seem to connect the pedal bracket to the firewall.... brake booster is loose but doesn't come out....
I think I need to drop the steering column for better access....
Richard
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Binnie's website is saved and printed - great info 
It is simply painful to work under the dashboard
Looking at Binnie's pics it is very clear now: I did not take the brake pushrod/pin off.... no wonder the pedal is not coming off....
It is simply painful to work under the dashboard
Looking at Binnie's pics it is very clear now: I did not take the brake pushrod/pin off.... no wonder the pedal is not coming off....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
You don't "need" to remove the upper dash pad and instrument cluster. If you remove the instrument cluster screws top and sides, and pull it forward just a bit, you should be able to get to the 2 upper bolts. To get my pedals out I had to remove the steering column and loosen up the support bracket. There are 10 bolts that hold the pedal bracket in. 4 at the booster, 4 more in the wiper cavity and there are 2 at the steering column support. I did not have to remove the cast steering column support but I had the remove the 2 upper forward bolts that you can see between the front instrument cluster and the top dash pad and left 2 support rods that bolt to the lower left corner. This allowed me to drop it and pull it a bit forward enough to get that damn pedal bracket out. This was for a 1972. If you totally remove the upper dash pad and instrument cluster, getting it all back in and aligned properly will be a major PITA. BTW, if you try to remove the upper dash pad, plan on forking out 400+ for a new one after you crack it.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
When I originally installed my kit I used the pigtail on the TKO for the safety lockout which I connected to the plug that went to the neutral safety switch for the automatic. I discovered later that I did not like having to put the car in neutral to start it. I prefer the the original setup where the clutch pedal must be pushed to start. I purchased the original type C3 lockout switch kit which mounts on the clutch pedal assembly. It is a real pain to install these switches after the assembly is installed back in the car. It can be done and I did it but I also invented several new words in the process. So decide on how you want your lockout to work and if you do indeed want the clutch switch, install it now before you put the assembly back in. Oh, you will need to make a little wiring harness to run from the switch to the plug that use to connect to the auto safety switch under the console unless you want to hack up your wiring harness which I do not recommend.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
I can remember driving cars and trucks that did not have a lockout switch on the clutch, so when I swapped the 350 auto to a T5 manual I just wired the wires on the tranny together. Now you can start the car in gear but that is not an altogether bad thing. I can also remember using the starter to roll the car out of the street when it would not start. Just a thought.
Bernie
Bernie
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Maybe $1000-$1200 .... but that's not going to include painting the bellhousing or wirebrushing/sandblasting/painting your old rusty parts...
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,738
Likes: 53
From: Bogart GA
You should find someone who knows Vettes. Changing the pedals out and installing the hydaulic clutch is the hardest part of the job. Unless you don't have a removable X-member. If you don't, I would say labor will be closer to 2000.00. Being in Orlando doesn't help.
Last edited by KJL; Apr 5, 2007 at 03:57 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs Colorado
I pulled the instrument cluster when I did mine. Just gives you more room to fight the good fight.
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder mounting can be a bit tricky but not too difficult.
Cheers,
Crunch
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder mounting can be a bit tricky but not too difficult.
Cheers,
Crunch
