Heres what I have: 1976 L82 with 40k original miles, no AC, and a TH-400 tranny, All completely stock except it has and no smog stuff- all MIA. Really nice car with some gasket & rubber leaks. I'm repairing this problem along the way though...

Heres are the new parts in the garage already: Hooker side pipe header system w/ 2.25" Sweet thunder muffler inserts. A Performer RPM intake. A Holley 670cfm Street avenger w/ plumbing. Summit 1.5 roller rockers. Summit HEI Dist. A bunch of support stuff like gasket kits, lines, fuel pump, accel wires, plugs, hoses, water pump, motor mounts, arp bolt kits, filters, 3"K&N, etc.

Here is what I'm shooting for- A reliable, fun to drive car that has better power than stock and sounds good. I basicly have a short block sitting in the engine bay right now. I cleaned up everything I possibly could and am ready to reinstall things since its getting warm quick and I want to drive it. Cam goes in first though..

Heres what I need help with-

1) What Cam would be better than stock torque and HP wise but still have good street manners w/ vacuum and the stock 882 head? I'm thinking of a Comp Cam 268H or Summits #1104

2) What is my factory CAM duration and lift anyways?

3) I plan to purchase heads after the summer is over as I cant afford them now (new baby). What heads would you recommend then knowing all the above.. Keep in mind I want to put a cam in now, swap heads in the fall and have it all work better the wimpy stock 210 hp combo.

Thanks for your insight and help, I have the C3 BUG something terrible- Cant even sleep most nights (seriously!).

 

I originally had my 79 L-82 heads ported and polished(2.02/1.60) screw in studs and guide plates, weiand intake, 1 5/8th head man headers with slightly hotter cam. True duals no smog. I was dissapointed in how little gain it really seem to have.

So I saved my pennies and a year or two later I installed flat top pistons, 64 cc heads, and a little more cam. That is when that motor first began to roar. The heads and compression were probably the biggest factor. It had come from 225 stock to probably over 380 HP.

My kitted TH350 with 3.55 gears and rear 275 width tires could actually spin the rears on WOT 1-2 shift. With slicks at the track it was a consistant 12.70's car.

 

Lik I said, I do plan to buy heads because thats what will make the most but not now- in the fall when I get my bonus check. (new baby now= only money to buy a cam kit and reassemble!)

I need a cam now cause I can't do anything else until I get it in the engine..
Or should I just run the stock one and then buy heads and matched cam together in the fall???

 

I'm looking at the Summit Cam # 1105; catalog claims 224/234 duration at .050 and .465/.488 lift. Is this to much lift for the stock 882 heads?

Any thoughts... Anyone...Anyone.......... Buehler..

 

The stock L-82 cam was something like 222/222 114 lc and mid 400 lift. but the smaller gentle sloped ramps are not in the same league as modern lobe designs.

If you buy a cam. it is better to get the cam and kit. Which includes new lifters and matching springs/retainers.

I'm kind of a Crane cam fan and for 350's with sub 10:1 and iron heads the Crane 272 powermax is a good choice. bigger than 355 ci or over 10:1 jump up to the Crane 278 power max

 

Thanks for the info!

I should just order a set of heads on the Visa... I can say its for my son in 16 years right?..? better not. Not worth it...or is it?

I forgot to mention earlier that I also have new lifters, 3/8" guides, and 3/8" 4130 push rods. That why I said the #1105 Cam. The number one factory pushrod was slightly bent. Wobbed on the sheet of glass.

Still open for input pleeeeeease~

 

Anyone know who makes Summits CAMS? Good or Junk?

 

I would say get the heads. I didn't at first and the studs started pulling out of the stock heads with the higher lift cam and stronger springs, and it wasn't that much higher. Now that I have the new head I wish I would have gotten a better cam like the Crane Cam 278 Power max

 

[QUOTE=redwingvette;1559690600]I would say get the heads. I didn't at first and the studs started pulling out of the stock heads with the higher lift cam and stronger springs, and it wasn't that much higher. Now that I have the new head I wish I would have gotten a better cam like the Crane Cam 278 Power max[/QUote




What head do you recommend at a reasonable price?
Aluminum or Iron? What head gasket would I want to get too? Felpro?

I like the looks of the #s on that 278 Cam too!

 

If you do not buy heads (and you probably should) the 268H is an easy choice.

Once you DO buy heads, you will want a bigger cam to go with them.

-Mark.

 

Dart Platinums are a nice head for the money. Your '76 heads would be OK to have milled to 70cc's and freshened up with new guides and springs, seals etc. as long as you have a shop that won't screw them up. If you keep the stock pistons with the -16cc + dishes, I'd be looking at using a Fel Pro 1094 at .015" or the Napa Victor Reinz 5746 (0.026") thin composition head gasket to further bump the compression.

 

Thanks Scott and Mark, I just spent many hours getting the OEM heads cleaned up, new seals, polished, painted, seats lapped, etc. I think I'll just use them for now. I was under the impression the big valve882's were a decent set of heads.

Since its all torn down I'll put in a 268 cam with the thin Felpro gaskets. It will be way better than stock since the q-jet ran like crap and the exhaust pipes were factory. I'm not out to hot rod yet.. Just want it on the road for the summer.

Will I need to get any gasket adhesive for those felpro, or just install as is?

 

Are the head gaskets the steel shim type or FelPro permatorque? Shim types get a coat of hi-temp aluminum paint- Perma-torques go on dry.

 

I need head gasket still, Havent order them yet. I was going to go with the .015 ones- shim type i guess.

 

1094 gaskets and summit 1103 or comp 275DEH. ... 3/8" prs are way overkill for this ... a $35 set of 5/16" is more than adequate. Yields ~9.17:1 scr.

 

Fel Pro 1094's go on as is, without paint since they have a Hypalon coating.

 

Currently my father has his rebuilt L82 in his vette.
He had the block bored .030 and is running a compression ratio of around 10:1 with the stock 76cc heads that have been ported and polished and has the manley proflow valves (undercut vavles - more flow)

he has the Performer RPM cam accompanied with the intake & 750 carb

The engine runs very healthy and I love to start the engine up and listen to choppy idle . If your looking for a comfortable car, this is not your kind of set-up, the engine has the car vibrating left and right at idle. If you are a gearhead, I think you would like this .

As for power is concerned, Edelbrock rates this package at around 420 HP, but either they have underated their package or not enough time was spent truely building their engine. I would say this engine produces around 450 - 500 HP. In my opinion it is a very respectable set-up for a 350. I would not even be afraid to take on these newer vettes.

Downsides:
Stock Cooling is out of the picture- you must have the BEST cooling system or your engine will run hot.
Another is the gas mileage - with a 3.70 posi-trac your lookin at 8 MPG on the highway

 

 

Don't overlook the aluminum L89 heads. I have these on my ZZ4 and they work very well. If budget is an issue they are worth a look. Not worth doing the motor work i.e. pull cam if you're not going to replace heads.

I did a ZZ4 swap in my L82 but you have other budget options.

Cam, heads and raise the compression a bit (9.5 to 1 or 10 to 1 with aluminum heads.

 

I rebuilt mine to make an estimated 350hp - 375hp at the crank. Exact numbers have not been confirmed. A former owner did some of the work -including headwork -, so I do not have exact specs on the heads, valves, and rockers. It makes a great driver. Some of the specs can be found in my profile. Best part is it didn't break the bank, and I was able to remain married. I only spent about 3k on a complete rebuild, and it still has the numbers matching engine.