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I'm a C2 guy but am building up a 400 sbc engine. .030 makes it a 406. The question I have is would you use 5.7" or 6" rods? Looking for streetable 425-450hp with 500+ torque on pump gas and the benefits of either length rod. Thanks
I'm a C2 guy but am building up a 400 sbc engine. .030 makes it a 406. The question I have is would you use 5.7" or 6" rods? Looking for streetable 425-450hp with 500+ torque on pump gas and the benefits of either length rod. Thanks
I've decided to go with 6.00" rods. There was a thread on rod length and 400 SBCs here a few months back, it might be in the archives already.
The 6 inch rods will put the piston pin up in the oil ring land. This will require a spacer for the oil ring. Not a big deal. I went with 5.7 rodsin my stroker buildup. The guy who machined my block also builds race engines and said the 5.7s will produce the pretty much same HP. He likes the 5.7 rods so that is what I went with. I'm not afraid to take it to 7000 rpm ad have done so many times. I don't think you will go wrong with either one, just get a good quality rod. I think that is most important.
If I had to choose between the 5.7 rod and 6.00 rod piston
with an oil ring support believe I would just go 5.7. But JE
and probably others have a piston using .043 rings instead of
the more regular 5/16 that uses a 6.00 rod and no oil ring support,
the thinner rings and probably pushed closer together makes it
work. thinner rings would mean less friction and they claim 70
percent of friction in an engine is caused by the rings. The new
LS/1 ZO6 uses thinner milimeter rings, my guess to create less
friction make the engine more efficient for both power and fuel
consumtion. original 50s 3.00 stroke small block had a 1.90
rod ratio, chevy never built a taller deck block took cheap way out
kept stroking enigine no new block. late model LS1 has taller 9.20
block 6.125 rods around a 3.90 stroke, took chevy long enough to
start doing it right. My guess is the original designers designing in a
1.90 rod ratio had it right. Just my 02 5.7 rod will work.
I'm a C2 guy but am building up a 400 sbc engine. .030 makes it a 406. The question I have is would you use 5.7" or 6" rods? Looking for streetable 425-450hp with 500+ torque on pump gas and the benefits of either length rod. Thanks
Go with the 6.00 rods and do not fear the pin intersecting the oil ring. I could not count the number of street engines we have built that way and I just do not see the problems that some claim.
The longer the rod, the less side loads on the piston and the slower the piston speed. The only time a short rod is preferred would be on a really heavy nitrous engine.
Thanks guys, I'm going with the powdered metal 5.7" rods. The ZZ4 uses them so they should be fine with my engine too.
Most higher end rod manufactures list HP rating for their I beam and H beam rods. Generally the gram weight of a rod is a give away as to its potential. lighter Oliver forged I beams @ 540 grams might top out at 500 max hp. Where 680 gram H beam forgings might exceed 850
Your best practice is to buy the pistons and rods as a set. That way you know that they work together.
Just something to check on these 400 blocks. I read a post earlier that some of the 400's were not drilled or tapped for the power steering pump bracket at the front of the blocks. It's an easy fix if you are at the building stage. Then after you drop it in and find out later
Will be picking up my motor this week (406). I used 6" rods to keep the pressure off the side walls. From researching it out, its a toss up between the 5.7 and 6. Anyway looking forward to the new power over the 355. As long as the weather permits.
Most higher end rod manufactures list HP rating for their I beam and H beam rods. Generally the gram weight of a rod is a give away as to its potential. lighter Oliver forged I beams @ 540 grams might top out at 500 max hp. Where 680 gram H beam forgings might exceed 850
Your best practice is to buy the pistons and rods as a set. That way you know that they work together.
I'm confused, shouldn't I be able to order any 400 ci engine piston for a 5.7" rod? I was going to use the ones with the teflon coating on the skirts, can't remember the manf right now, they have a lighting bolt on the side. Got them in my 355 now and they've been perfect.
Just something to check on these 400 blocks. I read a post earlier that some of the 400's were not drilled or tapped for the power steering pump bracket at the front of the blocks. It's an easy fix if you are at the building stage. Then after you drop it in and find out later
Good tip. I never even occured to me to check. Would have well and truly pi$$ed me off had I not noticed until it was installed.
For all of you 350/400 engine builders I have a "new" Moldex Tool Co. steel billit 4 1/8 stroked crankshaft available for those wanting more cubic inches.
I'm confused, shouldn't I be able to order any 400 ci engine piston for a 5.7" rod? I was going to use the ones with the teflon coating on the skirts, can't remember the manf right now, they have a lighting bolt on the side. Got them in my 355 now and they've been perfect.
Lightning bolt indicates a Speed-Pro brand. w/ 406 (3.75" stroke) ... I'd go 6" rod ... for your 450hp, Scat makes a good I-beam in 6" ( 2-ICR6000-7/16 ). Speed-Pro makes coated pistons for that combo in both Hyper & Forged ... Yes, most'll have an oil ring support rail ... & No, it's not a problem. Some of the newer S-P Forged 6" 406 pistons run a short metric 1.5,1.5,3 mm ringpak & do NOT require an ORSR. Typical ORSR is about 0.030"-0.035" thick. BTW, that same width ringpak is what comes OE in venerable iron vortec 350 truck motors and they last a LONG time & yield very little cylinder wall wear ... albeit those neither need nor have an ORSR.