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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 09:07 AM
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Hi, Ive read many times about a lot of you vette owners rebuilding your motors or adding a crate motor to your rides. I would like to rebuild my L82. 90000 miles on her, still runs good, starts up a little rough when cold and blows a little smoke. Im just looking for some insight as to how difficult it would be for me, who's motor experience is the equilivant of tune ups, oil changes and occasional part replacement Its a job would really like to tackle but I am worried about removing and reinstalling as well as what I'll be getting in to once I have it out.
Thanks in advance!
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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Before you even start, find out if you need it rebuilt.
The only reason to rebuild is because your oil pressure is low, or the rings are worn causing low compression or excessive oil consumption.
Most problems are caused by old carb or ignition parts. And oil smoke at startup is probably due to valve stem seals.
So why do you think it's time or rebuild?
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 09:19 AM
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An engine swap is not too difficult. If you've got decent mechanical skills, and the time, patience and tools... its a fairly easy task. Now, if your planning on rebuilding the engine yourself.... you may want to think about spending the extra few bucks to have someone else do it. Otherwise, you run the risk of having to do it twice

I'd say go for it. Look into a reputable machine shop in your area, usually this is a great way to go. Crate engines are good as well, but my preference is local.

Good luck.

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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 10:10 AM
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Keep your original L-82. Buy any of the how to rebuild a smallblock Chevy books and read through them. No rocket science involved in a rebuild.

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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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I wish I could get away with not doing it but its also leaking oil from the rear of the engine and I dont think it can be reached with the motor in.
I also just figured it would be ready for a rebuild at 90000.
Blows a little smoke after shes been running to occasionally.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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What color smoke? If white-blue then you're burning oil. If not then as stated might just need heads redone.
Glenn
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Sounds like rear main seal maybe?
That and a blue puff at startup still dont warrant a rebuild. I've had small blocks that were still running at 250K miles.
But if you're intent on a rebuild, and you're only going to rebuild 1 engine in your life. It's probably not worth the time/effort unless you just really want to do it.
It's not "rocket surgery", but you're going to make mistakes, and that can cost you time and money.
Swapping out for a crate motor is probably your best bet. It's difficult to rebuild a motor for the price of many crate motors.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by federij
Hi, Ive read many times about a lot of you vette owners rebuilding your motors or adding a crate motor to your rides. I would like to rebuild my L82. 90000 miles on her, still runs good, starts up a little rough when cold and blows a little smoke. Im just looking for some insight as to how difficult it would be for me, who's motor experience is the equilivant of tune ups, oil changes and occasional part replacement Its a job would really like to tackle but I am worried about removing and reinstalling as well as what I'll be getting in to once I have it out.
Thanks in advance!
"A journey of 100,000 miles begins with the first step" - or something like that?!?!

If you buy the book, invest in a few tools, and have a qualified machine shop available, you CAN do it. Your car will be out of commission for about twice as long as you estimate. The experience is well worth the cost IMHO. You will probably want to do it again once you do it once so keep that in mind.

Maybe you only need a baby step here. It sounds to me like you need a valve job for sure but the bottom end might be still serviceable. Removing the top end and having it reconditioned is an easy way to get started.

Good luck!

-Mark.
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:02 PM
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Or, you could remove the engine,..take the shortblock and heads to a good machine shop and have them do the rebuild. Figure from $1500 to $2500 for a fairly stock rebuild.

Then drop it all back in.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 08:09 AM
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I really appreciate all the opinions and feedback.
Thank you very much.
I have some thinking to do....
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 08:49 AM
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I too came to the crossroads of rebuild...or crate.
Being your first one....ask yourself three questions. What do I want from my motor, am I willing to spend the time & money to go the rebuild distance, do I realy want to learn how?
Question 1: Do I want a good dependable everyday motor, or a pavement pounder? This will dictate your choice of parts, rebuild costs, and rebuild practices.
Question 2: You WILL spend lots of time in the garage. Clearancing, checking, measuring and wrenching. Haste makes waste.
Question 3: You must be willing to learn before you procede. Don't do anything before you know exactly what and how. More time spent....
Doing a rebuild "right" yourself is NOT cheaper than crate. You'll NEVER convince me of that unless you have a relative in the parts & machine business. GOOD machine work is not cheap, neither are quality parts. It is very close to the same money as crate, and certainly does take longer. Satisfaction, pride, and knowledge gained while doing it yourself is the reward.
I researched my azz off for the best deal on parts throughout my build and found many parts substantially cheaper, and bought every book there is on rebuilding practices before proceding. Even then I have a ton of dough in my motor. Also made frends with an engine builder and picked his brain for tips & tricks on numerous occasions for info that was NOT in those books. Even then you are bound to make mistakes, so be prepared for more delays and extra costs.
Lots to decide on HUH...
Good luck with your decision.
Eddie
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:14 AM
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pulling and re-installing the engine is no rocket science. Rebuilding isn't either. I just did my first rebuild. Haven't installed or started the rebuilt engine yet
As for special tools, you'll need a good torque wrench and a ring compressor (I got the one specifically for my bore size (4.155).
I had the machine shop get me the bearings for the right clearance, so they did all the measuring..
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