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clutch linkage problem

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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 05:44 PM
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Default clutch linkage problem

I'm gonna fix this with a gallon of gas!!! I just swapped a motor into my 75..I come to find out a lot of things are different from a regular 350..water pump, fuel pump, motor mounts, water pump pulleys, crank pulleys now I put a new clutch and throwout bearing in. The linkage is the same the trans is the same, yet when I push on the clutch it doesn't fully release. I have no adjustment left on the rod.what's wrong? when we put the throwout bearing in we pu the lever forks in the groove of the to bearing. is this the wrong spot? could it have slipped out when sliding the trans in? I see it pushing against the throwout bearing help
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 05:50 PM
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Maybe throwout bearing is facing wrong direction? Or ball stud for fork is different as well, like shorter/longer? Correct pressure plate?
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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Here's a photo of TO bearing install. Other issue could be the pivot stud. Is it in all the way?

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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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If everything is in as it is supposed to be, the problem could be the fork pivot ball length or height. I had to switch to a Mr Gasket adjustable clutch rod to get the clutch fork to travel enough to disengage the disk. Seems my pivot ball a different height.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1ARACE
Maybe throwout bearing is facing wrong direction? Or ball stud for fork is different as well, like shorter/longer? Correct pressure plate?
I didn't know the throwout bearing could face the wrong direction.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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Default Corvetteforum comes through again

I think I have the answer. there was a nother thread about this identical problem...It seems it's fairly common...and it does have to do with the pivot ball. I had my flywheel cutdown, which brings the bolting surface even with the clutch disk surface plus a hair more to cut the glazing and make it a uniform surface. That makes the whole clutch pack further forward, requiring more clutch travel...so I can put the longer ball in.....if I seperate trans from bellhousing...But I think I can cheat! I'll get a clevis pin setup to thread onto the clutch pedal rod...this will effectively give me a longer rod, i.e. more adjustment in the linkage...Woo hoo!!! my vette will be on the road in time for....snow global warming my ***!!!
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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Glad you got it
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 12:51 AM
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BTDT, thinking seriously about possibility of installing the "Rod Links" trick linkage w/heim-joint ends from www.speeddirect.com

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 30, 2007 at 08:03 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 09:06 AM
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I would opt. to change the piviot stud. I had the same problem it caused the same problems you mentioned plus a hard pedal. I tried the speeddirect option yes I could shift it but the pedal just didn't feel right. Junked the speeddirect fix and put in the correct stud and all is good. Has something to do with pivot angles that I understand but can't explain.
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Artsvette73
I would opt. to change the piviot stud.


Here's a thread that was helpful to me.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1640205
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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didn't fix it!!! something is wrong insode the bellhousing.. now it'll release with heavy foot pressure and makes noise like a bad throw out bearing this is my hobby.. I enjoy this...it relaxes me... where's my gun??
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Old Apr 13, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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Is your clutch plate in backwards. It happens.

Last edited by Retro78; Apr 13, 2007 at 10:54 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Is your clutch plate in backwards. It happens.
Bitest thou tongue!!!
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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A adjustable pivot is what you need!!
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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The problem is you don't have enough clutch "total travel" you can lengthen the rod all day long and you will never effect this travel distance. To get a longer total travel you either need a longer pivot ball or lengthen the the lower "ear" on the clutch cross shaft. I went through this and extending the lower ear will give you additional travel but the clutch pedel will be harder to push with your foot

Last edited by PinHead; Apr 14, 2007 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
A adjustable pivot is what you need!!
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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well i'm gonna back out the trans and double check the disk, and put in the taller GM ball...that should fix it..
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Is your clutch plate in backwards. It happens.
Mine was when I bought the car. Took a LOT of foot pressure to push the clutch in. It all worked fine except the extra effort and some noise on disengagement. So much extra effort required I broke my clutch pedal off the bracket on the inside of the car. Fixed that, Drove it 5000 miles and discovered the disk in backward when I disassembled it to restore. Bubba was here!

Last edited by 63mako; Apr 15, 2007 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:34 PM
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When you get the tranny out, you need to pull the bellhousing as well and measure from the bellhousing/block to the ball tip. It needs to be 4.750 (4 3/4) inches. Just lay down a straight edge across the bellhousing and measure to the tip of the ball stud.



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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Mine was when I bought the car. Took a LOT of foot pressure to push the clutch in. It all worked fine except the extra effort and some noise on disengagement.!
EXACTLY WHAT I HAVE!!!
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