Poly front bushing vs rubber bushing
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 779
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From: San Bruno California
Poly front bushing vs rubber bushing
Hi all, which would you recomend for the control arm, sway bar bushing ( poly or rubber ). I plan to rebuild my front end and some say that the poly bushing over time squeeks and you have to squirk grease or some kingd of lubericant to stop it from making the noise.Where as the rubber doesn't. Dont plan to autocross, or do heavy twisty. But would like it to handle well. I have the VBP monoleaf in the rear with the Bilstein sport shocks. I plan to put the # 460 coil springs up front and the 1 1/8 swaybar from VBP. Does the poly squeek alot?? Tony
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 342
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From: Onley VA
I'll add a little trick though. The sway bar mounts are low and can get hit with alot of splashed water so if they become a problem, instead of dissassembly you can install grease zerk fittings, which you can do later when neccessary. Drill a hole (the proper size for your fitting, of course) into the mount and through the bushing untill you hit the bar. Clean it out good, then tap it, and screw in the zerk. Just make sure you use the proper grease and cap the zerk.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I'll add a little trick though. The sway bar mounts are low and can get hit with alot of splashed water so if they become a problem, instead of dissassembly you can install grease zerk fittings, which you can do later when neccessary. Drill a hole (the proper size for your fitting, of course) into the mount and through the bushing untill you hit the bar. Clean it out good, then tap it, and screw in the zerk. Just make sure you use the proper grease and cap the zerk.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,155
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From: San Diego California
I'm sticking with rubber replacement bushings- especially for a street driven car. I put the greased poly bushings on the control arms in my 93, and they would frequently give an anoying squeek- especially in cold weather. If it was a drag or road race vette, then I'd want a firmer suspension and probably use the poly.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I'm sticking with rubber replacement bushings- especially for a street driven car. I put the greased poly bushings on the control arms in my 93, and they would frequently give an anoying squeek- especially in cold weather. If it was a drag or road race vette, then I'd want a firmer suspension and probably use the poly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
Also it is much easier to install the poly bushings in the A-arms.
For the rubber crap, you need a press.
I also think that the A-Arms moove much more unrestricted and free with the polys .
Günther
Also it is much easier to install the poly bushings in the A-arms.
For the rubber crap, you need a press.
I also think that the A-Arms moove much more unrestricted and free with the polys .
Günther
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
...that movement being more consistent and in the wanted directions, not the unwanted ones like rubber. Oh, but you do need to get the original rubber crap out first. 
My poly's came with new outer sleeves which I tack welded to the arms, per instructions. It's worth whatever little trouble you think it might be to do.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
Tack-weldet ???
My polys also came with outer sleeves. Why would you want to weld them ? They are pressed in till the end and held by the bolt on the opposit side.
Must they be welded ? Did I do this wrong ? Safety ?
The old rubber bushings are normally so worn, that it is easy to get them out, also without a press.
Günther
Tack-weldet ???
My polys also came with outer sleeves. Why would you want to weld them ? They are pressed in till the end and held by the bolt on the opposit side.
Must they be welded ? Did I do this wrong ? Safety ?
The old rubber bushings are normally so worn, that it is easy to get them out, also without a press.
Günther
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 342
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From: Onley VA
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,227
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From: Atlanta Ga
Hi
Tack-weldet ???
My polys also came with outer sleeves. Why would you want to weld them ? They are pressed in till the end and held by the bolt on the opposit side.
Must they be welded ? Did I do this wrong ? Safety ?
The old rubber bushings are normally so worn, that it is easy to get them out, also without a press.
Günther
Tack-weldet ???
My polys also came with outer sleeves. Why would you want to weld them ? They are pressed in till the end and held by the bolt on the opposit side.
Must they be welded ? Did I do this wrong ? Safety ?
The old rubber bushings are normally so worn, that it is easy to get them out, also without a press.
Günther
i think the tack weld to help hold the sleeves from rotating which could cause a noise.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Hi
Tack-weldet ???
My polys also came with outer sleeves. Why would you want to weld them ? They are pressed in till the end and held by the bolt on the opposit side.
Must they be welded ? Did I do this wrong ? Safety ?
The old rubber bushings are normally so worn, that it is easy to get them out, also without a press.
Günther
Tack-weldet ???
My polys also came with outer sleeves. Why would you want to weld them ? They are pressed in till the end and held by the bolt on the opposit side.
Must they be welded ? Did I do this wrong ? Safety ?
The old rubber bushings are normally so worn, that it is easy to get them out, also without a press.
Günther
Anyway, mine came from Guldstrand, back before poly's became widely accepted beyond hardcore enthusiasts. As much as I'd like to impress everyone with a fine technical explaination (
), I can't recall exactly why Dick told me to secure them by tacking them into place (other than to secure them into place). But, I did so and the sleeves certainly don't move or squeek. I don't think I'd loose sleep over not tacking them in if your kit didn't specify it.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Apr 17, 2007 at 10:09 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 13
From: Europe , Luxembourg
Hi
Puhh, OK.
The rubber bushing sleeves where not welded and there is certainly more rotational force on those as there is on the polys.
The new poly sleeves required some press work as well. I can't see them turning. The poly itself yes, contrary to the rubber just twisting.
Günther
Puhh, OK.
The rubber bushing sleeves where not welded and there is certainly more rotational force on those as there is on the polys.
The new poly sleeves required some press work as well. I can't see them turning. The poly itself yes, contrary to the rubber just twisting.
Günther
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,802
Likes: 241
From: Niles, MI
Here's a good archived thread discussing the pros and cons. Let's Settle This Poly vs. Rubber Bushings Debate
Racer
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 491
Likes: 12
From: Los Altos Hills, CA
I’m in the camp of selecting the bushing material by application. On the front A-arms, these bushings only see rotational motion. The way rubber works in this application is it twists as the A-arm moves up and down. Poly, which I’m not a big fan of, acts as a bearing material, the bushing sleeves rotate around the poly as the A-arm moves up and down. No one has mentioned a third choice, and that is Delrin. Delrin is a hard, self-lubricating plastic. It is far superior to poly as a bearing material. Global West makes Delrin bushings for the corvette.
On the rear trailing arms, these bushings see not only see rotational motion up and down, they get “twisted” as well. A spherical solid bushing is the ultimate competition solution, short of that rubber makes the most sense. Poly is not the greatest at handling the twisting motion.
A third set of bushings are on the strut rods. Again these see not only rotational motion but twisting motion. You see heim joint kits as the ultimate solution (VBP and Guldstrand). Again short of that, I’d use rubber rather than poly for these bushings.
On the rear trailing arms, these bushings see not only see rotational motion up and down, they get “twisted” as well. A spherical solid bushing is the ultimate competition solution, short of that rubber makes the most sense. Poly is not the greatest at handling the twisting motion.
A third set of bushings are on the strut rods. Again these see not only rotational motion but twisting motion. You see heim joint kits as the ultimate solution (VBP and Guldstrand). Again short of that, I’d use rubber rather than poly for these bushings.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I’m in the camp of selecting the bushing material by application. On the front A-arms, these bushings only see rotational motion. The way rubber works in this application is it twists as the A-arm moves up and down. Poly, which I’m not a big fan of, acts as a bearing material, the bushing sleeves rotate around the poly as the A-arm moves up and down. No one has mentioned a third choice, and that is Delrin. Delrin is a hard, self-lubricating plastic. It is far superior to poly as a bearing material. Global West makes Delrin bushings for the corvette.
On the rear trailing arms, these bushings see not only see rotational motion up and down, they get “twisted” as well. A spherical solid bushing is the ultimate competition solution, short of that rubber makes the most sense. Poly is not the greatest at handling the twisting motion.
A third set of bushings are on the strut rods. Again these see not only rotational motion but twisting motion. You see heim joint kits as the ultimate solution (VBP and Guldstrand). Again short of that, I’d use rubber rather than poly for these bushings.
On the rear trailing arms, these bushings see not only see rotational motion up and down, they get “twisted” as well. A spherical solid bushing is the ultimate competition solution, short of that rubber makes the most sense. Poly is not the greatest at handling the twisting motion.
A third set of bushings are on the strut rods. Again these see not only rotational motion but twisting motion. You see heim joint kits as the ultimate solution (VBP and Guldstrand). Again short of that, I’d use rubber rather than poly for these bushings.
I'm going with the spherical steel in the rear for just that reason. I hate rubber, and I'd like to leave my suspension together this time for as long as possible.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 491
Likes: 12
From: Los Altos Hills, CA
Yep, the Global West Delrin bushings are a PITA to install. I think they need to be pushed to get their corvette kits cleaned up. The biggest problem is forcing you to weld threaded studs in the cross shafts. For other makes of cars Global West makes special cross shafts. They don't think the corvette market is big enough to justify special parts. (They say everyone is restoring corvettes, not hot-rodding them!)
Poly is certainly durable, I just don't think it's the best for performance in certain places.
Poly is certainly durable, I just don't think it's the best for performance in certain places.
