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Which diff for 600hp?

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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
What RPM are you bringing it up to (or however it works, I never ran an auto) before the shock hits the rear tires?
I'll probably leave at about 5000 RPM off the brake.. However, I will need a 2nd set of wheels and tires for the brake as I'm running radial slicks which would probably break loose if hit with the transbrake.. Might get a set of 30 x 10.5 - 15 ET Drag slicks on a 2nd set of rear wheels for transbrake use..
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 12:46 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I'll probably leave at about 5000 RPM off the brake.. However, I will need a 2nd set of wheels and tires for the brake as I'm running radial slicks which would probably break loose if hit with the transbrake.. Might get a set of 30 x 10.5 - 15 ET Drag slicks on a 2nd set of rear wheels for transbrake use..
Okay...that's a lot LESS than what I plan to leave at. I just don't think an IRS will hold up to 8000+ RPM dumps with a clutch and slicks.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 01:01 PM
  #23  
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Strongly suggest working your way up rather than down to whatever RPM works best on the ET slip, and save some unnecessary trauma to your pocketbook. You might be surprised to find that a lower number than you think does the best job. RPM sounds cool, but sound isn't performance. The less RPM you turn, the less stuff you're going to hurt...

And, don't get stuck in a rut over shift point. Had a big inch drag only car that all the theory said to shift at 6,200, but shifting at 5,900 was a full 1/4 second quicker.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 02:05 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
Okay...that's a lot LESS than what I plan to leave at. I just don't think an IRS will hold up to 8000+ RPM dumps with a clutch and slicks.
It all depends on your engine power.. I'll be running over 700 HP on engine + 250 -300 HP shot of spray..

I personally like solid axles a lot and would have one if I would've found somebody that could've done the conversion in a reasonable amount of time for a reasonable amount of money.. I found somebody AFTER I already went with the 12-bolt.. So far, I'm very satisfied!!! I will go with the spool very soon....
The good thing about still having the IRS is that the world record for a IRS Vette is beatable.. As far as I know, the fastest IRS Vette runs 8.30's... I won't be able to beat it with my current setup (that will be going in soon) but I might be able to get close to that ET with my next setup..which will be built with SB2 Heads and a big shot of spray...
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 02:52 PM
  #25  
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I like that once you install a solid axle like a Ford 9 inch or Dana 60, your worries about rear end breakage are pretty much over. As long as everything else is done correctly, that is.

Dep
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
I like that once you install a solid axle like a Ford 9 inch or Dana 60, your worries about rear end breakage are pretty much over. As long as everything else is done correctly, that is.

Dep
I'm not really too worried about the rear end breaking either.. If it happens, I can still convert to a solid axle...
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 03:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
I like that once you install a solid axle like a Ford 9 inch or Dana 60, your worries about rear end breakage are pretty much over.


(since most of this discussion is talking about straight-line/drag-racing )

..... besides reliability, a solid-axle would provide an easier-way to tune the chassis / transfer-weight onto the slicks, making consistent runs easier, with less-worries about the wheels tipping in-board/out-board on launch.....

My fiancee would KILL me if I put a solid-axle under our 27,000-mile '82 (and Tracy Lewis would dis-own me, too! ), but I am still tinkering with the idea if it can be done properly without breaking the bank.

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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 03:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Glensgages


(since most of this discussion is talking about straight-line/drag-racing )

..... besides reliability, a solid-axle would provide an easier-way to tune the chassis / transfer-weight onto the slicks, making consistent runs easier, with less-worries about the wheels tipping in-board/out-board on launch.....

My fiancee would KILL me if I put a solid-axle under our 27,000-mile '82 (and Tracy Lewis would dis-own me, too! ), but I am still tinkering with the idea if it can be done properly without breaking the bank.

I know just the right guy that can do it for a reasonable price.. He is a race car builder and could probably get it done for under $5k (depending on what parts you want)
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:18 PM
  #29  
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Thanks guys, I'm getting some good info... keep it coming.

DJ Dep, you're right, solid axles are the way to go for power. But, I am not going to go with a solid axle. I enjoy the handling of this car too much to give up the IRS. Around a windy road at the top of 3rd and 4th gear is where my car will spend most of her life. I will take this car to the strip every now and then when my GN buddy pushes me to, but not seriously. I doubt that I'll ever own slicks. Also a solid axle conversion is waaay out of my price range. I'm going for an affordable stout IRS.


Last edited by enkeivette; Apr 17, 2007 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by torqvette
Thanks guys, I'm getting some good info... keep it coming.

DJ Dep, you're right, solid axles are the way to go for power. But, I am not going to go with a solid axle. I enjoy the handling of this car too much to give up the IRS. Around a windy road at the top of 3rd and 4th gear is where my car will spend most of her life. I will take this car to the strip every now and then when my GN buddy pushes me to, but not seriously. I doubt that I'll ever own slicks. Also a solid axle conversion is waaay out of my price range. I'm going for an affordable stout IRS.

I understand and don't fault your decision. My Vette will live at the strip, so it's an easy choice for me. It would be too big a $$$$ risk for me to use IRS and have all that money invested in a Tom's setup and have something let go. And I've seen what a 1/2 shaft can do to the floor of a Vette if a u-joint pops. Pretty scary stuff. My nads would be pulled inside my body every time I popped the clutch!!!

Dep
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:26 PM
  #31  
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If you want to see a thread where we discussed the pros and cons of a solid axle, this is a golden oldie:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1012681

Dep
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 04:41 PM
  #32  
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Dep will enjoy this -

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1651829
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Glensgages
AWESOME!!! Wow!!! Over 9000 samolies!!! Guess I better start saving my pennies.
He used what I would use only I'd use a spool instead of the Detroit Locker. The Locker was probably used because he still drives it on the street. Notice he said "rides better (than) the the stock set up." I think the assumption that a solid axle will ride like crap is mistaken. If done correctly with the proper parts, I think it would ride just fine. Dang that looks spectacular. Thanks Glen!!!!

Dep

Last edited by DJ Dep; Apr 17, 2007 at 05:19 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #34  
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D60 is a truck axle, and a poor one at that. 14BFF is the only way to go in the rear.

I'd use a 9 inch rear if I was going to make a ill handling drag car
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 05:21 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Yellow73SB
D60 is a truck axle, and a poor one at that. 14BFF is the only way to go in the rear.

I'd use a 9 inch rear if I was going to make a ill handling drag car
There are Dana 60s that are made for cars too. The late 60s Hemi Chargers and Challengers with 4-speeds came standard with Dana 60 rear ends. They are very heavy duty. NASCAR uses 9 inch Ford rear ends in all their stockers. Probably the best you can buy.

Dep
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #36  
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Here are a few pics of others.
-Patrick
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 05:47 PM
  #37  
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And what I plan to do.No back-half, no frame butchering.Detroit Locker for the steet and wheelie bars for when slicks are used. My next mod after VF VI VIII.
-P
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To Which diff for 600hp?

Old Apr 17, 2007 | 06:38 PM
  #38  
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A solid axle rear end is certainly doable for strip or street/strip. The picture I posted in #10 on this thread is the rear end from a Motion Performance Vette (allegedly).
While it's authenticity as a Motion Performance car may be in question, the rear end is certainly real.

Dep
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
AWESOME!!! Wow!!! Over 9000 samolies!!! Guess I better start saving my pennies.
Yeah, but if I understood correctly, the guy drove it into the shop, and drove it our 4 days later, provided no pieces for the swap, and that price included all parts, including a 5-point bar and a Locker (more-expensive than a spool ), and labor:
for a guy who has the weaker Dana-44 IRS, I'd spend almost that-much in parts-alone to convert & upgrade to pre-'79 standards, and still have a rear-suspension designed to go-around corners, not to plant the rear-tires.....

For a severe-duty drag-race/bracket-car C3, this might be cheap-insurance, and a way to 'forget' about rear-axle/differential problems once-and-for-all.
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Old Apr 17, 2007 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by DJ Dep
There are Dana 60s that are made for cars too. The late 60s Hemi Chargers and Challengers with 4-speeds came standard with Dana 60 rear ends. They are very heavy duty. NASCAR uses 9 inch Ford rear ends in all their stockers. Probably the best you can buy.

Dep
I know they were available in cars. The axles aren't very big. I've heard of people breaking them. These are in manly trucks though .
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