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It seems every time I remove my intake I find the gasket has shifted and in some cased even torn around bolt locations. I have been using Edelbrock Gaskasinch on the head side but I believe this is causing the problem. Has anyone else experienced this? I use the Felpro 1205 or 1206 type gaskets. It seems like I need a more robust gasket as I have seen this also happen with other production type paper gaskets. I replaced one on a friends Saturn, part of the gasket eventually shifted completely into the intake port. This appears to be a common problem with Saturns. The replacement was a steel core type.
on my '65 I use the Paragon Reproduction intake manifold gaskets and on my '78 I use the standard Chevy intake manifold gasket from the Chevy parts dept. On both cars I use the Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant to hold them in place on the heads and let it sit for 5-15 minutes or so before dropping the intake down. I haven't had a gasket shift on me yet.
here is a pic of my '78 L82 with the gaskets on the heads just before dropping the intake down on it:
Very simple to make a perminate repair with whatever gasket you use. First clean all surfaces, heads, intake, and both ends of the block. Use the yellow 3M 8001 trim cement on the gasket and place on the heads. Let it set and dry completely. Do the same for the block front and rear pieces. Before setting the intake on, grease the gasket completely with wheel bearing or similar grease. The excess grease if there is any will melt off from engine heat. This also works for the valve covers except glue the gasket to the valve covers not the head. The result is that bumping the gasket will not affect it`s position on either the intake or the valve covers while replacing either one. The grease will also allow simple removal with out sticking on both surfaces and reuse of the gaskets over and over. Try it, you will not be dissapointed and no more leaks.
That sounds interesting. You use the end seals? Seems most folks don't.
Yep, that where most mistakes are made. Silicone is not a good idea except in the corners of the end seals. This proceedure eliminates accidental bumping something unseen your not aware of while installing intakes or valve covers causing the gasket to move because the 3M stuff makes them dead solid.
I spray the head side of the gasket with permatex red and stick it in place. i use nothing on the manifold side other than the bead of permatex black very much like what was done in the picture posted abave
How long do you let the Permatex set (on the ends and around the water port) before you set the intake down? I think I have a vacuum leak at the intake, looks like I'll need to pull it and replace the gaskets.
How long do you let the Permatex set (on the ends and around the water port) before you set the intake down? I think I have a vacuum leak at the intake, looks like I'll need to pull it and replace the gaskets.
The Permatex only takes about 5 minutes to "skin" so anywhere from 5-15 minutes is when I drop the intake down
Ok, 3M 8001. It also comes in black, but it's the best thing I've found for intake gaskets. It'll stick 'em to the heads like no other. Bear to clean when you pull the intake. I use the rubber seals on the china walls, along with a dose of RTV at the corners, IF the block has the holes for the rubber seals. If not, then a nice FAT bead of RTV after cleaning the edges with alcohol or acetone.
I was going to tell them about 3M 08011 in black but I figured they wouldn`t use it black or yellow or whatever. They wont listen. I guess it`s better to use permatex and complain about leaks rather than fix um.
I was going to tell them about 3M 08011 in black but I figured they wouldn`t use it black or yellow or whatever. They wont listen. I guess it`s better to use permatex and complain about leaks rather than fix um.
I'll not argue with you since you have decades more experience than I do working on motors. All i'll say is that I learned by following John Hinckley's directions and so far I've never had a leak, including the very first time I ever did it.
i'm sure there can be more than just only one way of doing it and have it work without leaks.
No doubt that if you take your time, make sure all the surfaces are nice and clean, and pay special attention to to the areas that are especially prone to leaks such as the corners, that you can do the job sucessfully and have leak free results.
After reading all the replies I think maybe there was a slight misunderstanding as to what I meant. The gaskets appear to be shifting AFTER I install the intake as a result of the expansion and contraction of the aluminum intake relative to the heads. Aluminum likes to move. That is why I am intersted in the steel core gasket. I did not have this issue with my Edelbrock heads but if I recall the gasket surface had slight machine marks in them where the AFR's are almost mirror polished. And yes, I use a torque wrench when I install.
Stick the gaskets to the heads with something, (I use yellow death) and then torque. And then every 3 or 4 days for a month, re-torque. the aluminum intake and the heads all move and the bolts come loose. Just the nature of the beast. After a month or so of chasing the torque, everything will settle down and stay tight.
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