Coolant leak - Intake
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Maryland
Coolant leak - Intake
Put my new valve covers on and installed a new chrome alternator and I noticed a very small amount (for now I am sure) of coolant coming from the front bottom left corner of the manifold, where it meets the heads, by the manifold bolt. What's the deal?
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,372
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
Don't be surprised if the manifold bolt closest to the leak snaps when you try to remove it. The water causes it to seize to the aluminum manifold. Before you go nuts trying to drill it or easyout it pry the manifold up off the broken bolt and it should then easily unscrew with a vicegrips as it was only stuck to the aluminum.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Maryland
Something else to put on my to-do list, it never ends. I won't have a chance to do this for a while. Maybe next week, maybe. This should be fun with this car, with all the smog and vacuum garbage. Stock q-jet, aluminum manifold, 1980. Never took off a carb and intake so it should be a blast, only thing I am worried about is the distributor. Any tips are appreciated.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,372
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
A few marks with a majic marker will make distributer reinstallation a breeze. Remove the sparkplug wire retainer with the plugs attached and tie it off out of the way. Remove the dist. cap. Note where the rotor is pointing and put a corresponding mark on the dist. housing. Remove the hold down clamp without moving the dist. Put another mark on the dist. flange and a corresponding mark on the intake manifold. Without turning the dist. slowly pull it straight up. You'll notice the rotor turn slightly. Put a mark on the dist. housing where the rotor points as you pull it up.
When you install it line the rotor up with the mark it pointed to when you removed it and line up the marks on the flange and manifold. When it's back into the block the rotor will turn and be lined up with the first mark you made.
You'll be within a few degrees of timing with a little care.
This all assuming you don't turn the motor over with it apart.
When you install it line the rotor up with the mark it pointed to when you removed it and line up the marks on the flange and manifold. When it's back into the block the rotor will turn and be lined up with the first mark you made.
You'll be within a few degrees of timing with a little care.
This all assuming you don't turn the motor over with it apart.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Something else to put on my to-do list, it never ends. I won't have a chance to do this for a while. Maybe next week, maybe. This should be fun with this car, with all the smog and vacuum garbage. Stock q-jet, aluminum manifold, 1980. Never took off a carb and intake so it should be a blast, only thing I am worried about is the distributor. Any tips are appreciated.
Veteran
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,284
Likes: 81
From: Nashville, TN
A few marks with a majic marker will make distributer reinstallation a breeze. Remove the sparkplug wire retainer with the plugs attached and tie it off out of the way. Remove the dist. cap. Note where the rotor is pointing and put a corresponding mark on the dist. housing. Remove the hold down clamp without moving the dist. Put another mark on the dist. flange and a corresponding mark on the intake manifold. Without turning the dist. slowly pull it straight up. You'll notice the rotor turn slightly. Put a mark on the dist. housing where the rotor points as you pull it up.
When you install it line the rotor up with the mark it pointed to when you removed it and line up the marks on the flange and manifold. When it's back into the block the rotor will turn and be lined up with the first mark you made.
You'll be within a few degrees of timing with a little care.
This all assuming you don't turn the motor over with it apart.
When you install it line the rotor up with the mark it pointed to when you removed it and line up the marks on the flange and manifold. When it's back into the block the rotor will turn and be lined up with the first mark you made.
You'll be within a few degrees of timing with a little care.
This all assuming you don't turn the motor over with it apart.
Dont be cheap on the intake gasket, use a fel-pro and make sure you use a timing light after the install with the vc advance plugged, the marks will get you close but not exact, in the last 3 intake jobs I've done I have been from 3 to 16 degrees off and never on the money.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,372
Likes: 223
From: Beecher Illinois
I broke 2 the last one I did. Don't think the PB Blaster will help in this situation as the chemical reaction of the steel bolt and aluminum manifold make it appear welded together. Luckily my 2 broken ones were on the same side and let go when I worked the manifold up. It was surprisingly easy unscrewing the bolt remains from the heads.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Cecil County Maryland
I am going to save this for when I am ready to do it. I will keep you updated. Good time to buy a good timing light I guess. You guys are awesome as usual, it boosts my confidence knowing if I screw something up I can count on the forum to get me through.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Edmond OK
New member here, have two questions:
1) how do I start a new thread?
2) Does any one know if there are any modern style cold air systems which have adapters to make them combatable with my holley 750? Or, do I have to fabricate one. the reason I ask, is because the new holley doesn't fit my old L82 cold air system..... and the old stuff is pretty beat up anyway.
1) how do I start a new thread?
2) Does any one know if there are any modern style cold air systems which have adapters to make them combatable with my holley 750? Or, do I have to fabricate one. the reason I ask, is because the new holley doesn't fit my old L82 cold air system..... and the old stuff is pretty beat up anyway.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
New member here, have two questions:
1) how do I start a new thread?Top of page "Start a thread."
2) Does any one know if there are any modern style cold air systems which have adapters to make them combatable with my holley 750? Or, do I have to fabricate one. the reason I ask, is because the new holley doesn't fit my old L82 cold air system..... and the old stuff is pretty beat up anyway.
1) how do I start a new thread?Top of page "Start a thread."
2) Does any one know if there are any modern style cold air systems which have adapters to make them combatable with my holley 750? Or, do I have to fabricate one. the reason I ask, is because the new holley doesn't fit my old L82 cold air system..... and the old stuff is pretty beat up anyway.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
I broke 2 the last one I did. Don't think the PB Blaster will help in this situation as the chemical reaction of the steel bolt and aluminum manifold make it appear welded together. Luckily my 2 broken ones were on the same side and let go when I worked the manifold up. It was surprisingly easy unscrewing the bolt remains from the heads.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Edmond OK
Cut and pasted all the links here.....am I blind, or just too new to have the option.
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