I tested Voltage to the Battery Connection in the HEI, 12Volts Solid, wire coming straight from the Battery, no fuse at this point (I will install once I have spark).

I took the top of the HEI off and it is 12 volts to the Yellow and Red wires. I tested them to the black wire there and good current so the black is grounded good.

I thought it was as simple as that? Don't seem to be.....

 

You don't say what year and whether it is a Delco or aftermarket unit. More info would help.

Let me assume that you have a GM Delco unit. These are very reliable units and also very easy to work on with parts available everywhere. Fwiw, I had to replace the module under the cap twice during my ownership of a 77 Buick Electra with the same HEI system. Takes about 15 minutes to swap out the module and is a very simple screwdriver type of repair. For the cost of one of these modules, I would try that first.

Gary

 

Inspect the rotor very carfully. I've seen then burn a very small hole thru the rotor and the spark jumps right to the dizzy shaft. After that, look at the pickup coil. The 2 small wires that connect to the module flex everytime the vacuum advance moves. They break too. Easy to check with a meter, just pull the plug off the module, and check for continuity thru the wires. Green and white I think, can't miss, there's only 2 wires from the pickup to the module. You've already proved the power to the dizzy, so next step is inside the cap.

 

I had a brand new Mallory HEI up and die. I had never seen it happen and it had me looking for other things. Replaced it and no problems!

 

Here is what I bought.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=140099586136

Is is brand new. I have a 69 Corvette with a 1988 350 in it.

I checked using a Volt meter and Test light at the terminals at the top of the Cap and at the end of the Wires and I get nothing!

As I said, I took the top of the cap off and I am hot at the Yellow and Red wires, and a good reading on the Black for ground.

 

I think it has just crapped out on you. I had the module checked on the one I was talking about and it was fine, but no spark. Summit sent me a new one and now it's in a box in the garage since I went out and bought an Accel dist at the parts store.

 

Never used it... Bought it... Just got the motor in.... I guess it could be bad from the factory....

 

Nothing like great electrical parts!

 

Ya, Going to be 80 degrees today. Wanted to put her on the road for the first time in 29 years and the PIA Dist. holding me back!

I checked the nipple on the bottom of the coil and nothing, no hot or ground. That touches the rotor center, should be hot I would guess.

 

Try this. I just pasted it here because I can't host it.

1. With the ignition on, connect a test light to the coil positive (+) post or HEI BAT terminal.

LIGHT ON: Go to step 3.

LIGHT OFF: Go to step 2.

2. Check for continuity or voltage drop in the ignition switch and in the circuit from the switch to the coil positive (+) side or HEI BAT terminal, including any aftermarket ignition modules or ballast resistors. On conventional ignitions, also check for continuity in the bypass wire from the solenoid R terminal. Repair or replace as necessary.

STARTS: Stop—you’ve found the problem.

NO START: Go to step 3.

3. Remove a spark plug wire and insert an extension. Using insulated pliers, hold the spark plug wire ¼-inch away from the engine block while cranking the engine.

SPARK: The problem is not the ignition system. Check the fuel system, spark plugs, timing, and internal engine condition.

NO SPARK: Go to step 4.

4. Remove and inspect the distributor cap for cracks and carbon-tracking. Visually inspect the distributor mechanism for moisture, corrosion, or burns. Repair as needed.

STARTS: Stop—you’ve fixed it.

NO START: Go to step 5.


5. Check the coil.

CONVENTIONAL COIL: Go to step 6.

HEI (IN-CAP COIL): Go to step 9.

6. Set an ohmmeter to the low scale. Connect the leads across the primary terminals. Coils requiring ballast resistors should have about 1-2 ohms of resistance. Those not requiring a ballast resistor should have about 4-5 ohms of resistance.

OK: Go to step 7.

NOT OK: Replace coil.

7. Switch the ohmmeter to the high scale. Connect one lead to either coil primary terminal and the other lead to the secondary cable tower. A stock-style coil should read between 4K and 8K on the scale. Some aftermarket coils may have lower values; consult the appropriate specs.

BELOW 4K OR OVER 8K: Replace coil.

WITHIN SPEC: For points systems, go to step 8. For electronic systems other than HEI, consult the system manufacturer for further troubleshooting steps.

8. Using a voltmeter, connect one lead to ground and the other to the distributor side of the coil. Remove the high-tension wire from the coil and ground it. Bump the starter switch to open and close the points; the voltmeter reading should be 1/3 to ½ the battery voltage during cranking as the points open and close.

READING AT OR NEAR ZERO: Replace the points and condenser.


9. Set an ohmmeter to the low scale. Connect the leads across the HEI’s “BAT” and “TACH” terminals.

ABOVE 1 OHM: Replace coil. If vehicle still doesn’t start, go to step 11. 0-1 OHM: Go to step 10.

10. Switch the ohmmeter to the high scale. Connect one lead to the “BAT” terminal and the other lead to the coil contact in the inside-center of the cap. Switch the first lead to the “TACH” terminal and recheck.

EITHER TEST READS 6K to 30K: Coil is OK. Go to Step 11.

BOTH TESTS READ INFINITY: Replace the coil. If the engine still won’t start, go to step 11.

11. Remove the green and white leads from the HEI control module. Connect the ohmmeter from ground to either lead.

INFINITE:
Go to step 12. LESS THAN INFINITY: Replace the pickup coil. If the engine still won’t start, replace the module.

12. Connect the ohmmeter across the green and white module leads.

READS 500-1,500 OHMS: Repeat Steps 11 and 12 while moving the vacuum advance with a screwdriver. If reading is still OK, replace the module.

DOES NOT READ 500-1,500 OHMS: Replace pickup coil. If the engine still doesn’t start, replace the module.

 

The pickup coil is considered to be very reliable. Many say the pickup coils do not fail. Try moving the vac. advance while checking continuity.

I bought a "new in the box" HEI, checked it out before install & found the pickup coil "bad". I disassembled including the pickup coil & found a lead was not soldered to a pickup coil wire. Soldered to fix.

 

Check the wires from the module that plug into the cap. I bought a new one from NAPA and the wires were backwards. I swapped the wires, and it started right up.

 

$45.00 Nothing's too good for your car.

 

Bird,
You're a scream!!!

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn

 

Hey Bird, you bustin my stones?... I just bought the biggest (highest output) they had... It just happened to cost 45 bucks.

 

Bird.... Maybe I am reading too much into your comment, but I find it a little rude. Should we check in with you to see what an acceptable/respectable price is to pay for a part?

 

its probaly the other way around....$45 is alot to pay for one of those parts.....and he is commenting favaorably on your purchase and for digging into your wallet.....if i bought it it would have been a 19.99 special from auto zone, i'm sure he did not mean to insult you

 

I've seen them for 100-200 bucks.

Bird..... In that case. Thanks! I know I am cheap at times... But, having a wife, 4 kids and a Dalmation.... Only have so much to go around!

 

My bad. It must be my time of the month.

Points all WELL taken!

 

So did you figure out the problem?