Starter Issues...Need Help
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Safety Car
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From: Clymer PA
Starter Issues...Need Help
I installed the mini starter on Friday. I had to clock the starter to make it fit my application. It bolted on fine but it took 7-10 seconds of cranking before it would fire. I know it's not the motor because I had the stock starter from my 350 on and it fired right up. I'm guessing it's not engaging the flywheel because as I'm cranking the oil pressure stays at 0. I stuck two skinny shims in and it made no difference. Does it sound like it needs shimmed out more. It starts but as I pointed out it takes like 7 seconds of cranking before it seems to engage the flywheel and fire up.
Safety Car
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Usually if it is not engaging correctly it will make an aweful sound as the starter teeth grind on the flywheel.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Clymer PA
The problem with the OEM starter is that once the engine gets hot, the starter can't crank it over.
I will check the cranking voltage and I think I may also hook up a remote starter with the car in neutral and on ramps to see what the bendix looks like while it's trying to start.
I will check the cranking voltage and I think I may also hook up a remote starter with the car in neutral and on ramps to see what the bendix looks like while it's trying to start.
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From: Taylor Michigan
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From: Taylor Michigan
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Clymer PA
And I mean there is no such condition. They all get hot, so hot you cant hold them. If the Vette or for that matter any car or truck wont start when hot, get a better battery or have your charging system checked. I have sold hundreds of starters and helped even more on their cranking and charging problems.What I could never figure out is why a person would crawl under a car and remove a super hot starter before checking all the systems and saving from doing a messy job. It takes a lot to kill a good starter and most of the time they are still good. Low voltage is there enemy, not engine heat.
The mini starter is a 2HP starter.
I'm telling you that the OEM starter works fine but with the higher compression and a hot motor it can't do it. I never said the OEM starter was bad...I "crawled under the car" to remove the starter while it was cold because I have a nice mini starter that saves me some weight off the front end and doesn't struggle with the 11:1 compression.
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From: Lakeland, FL
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St. Jude Donor '03, '06, '17
Oliver:
The mini starter is a 2HP starter.
I'm telling you that the OEM starter works fine but with the higher compression and a hot motor it can't do it. I never said the OEM starter was bad...I "crawled under the car" to remove the starter while it was cold because I have a nice mini starter that saves me some weight off the front end and doesn't struggle with the 11:1 compression.
The mini starter is a 2HP starter.
I'm telling you that the OEM starter works fine but with the higher compression and a hot motor it can't do it. I never said the OEM starter was bad...I "crawled under the car" to remove the starter while it was cold because I have a nice mini starter that saves me some weight off the front end and doesn't struggle with the 11:1 compression.
I went to a 3.5 HP mini starter for my new engine (13.9 : 1 compression small block)
Last edited by GrandSportC3; Apr 24, 2007 at 02:30 PM.
Safety Car
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
Heat soak on a starter is certainly a condition, why do you think they make heat shields for starters?? It is normally the selinoid that gets hot and will not work properly.
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From: Taylor Michigan
Oliver:
The mini starter is a 2HP starter.
I'm telling you that the OEM starter works fine but with the higher compression and a hot motor it can't do it. I never said the OEM starter was bad...I "crawled under the car" to remove the starter while it was cold because I have a nice mini starter that saves me some weight off the front end and doesn't struggle with the 11:1 compression.
The mini starter is a 2HP starter.
I'm telling you that the OEM starter works fine but with the higher compression and a hot motor it can't do it. I never said the OEM starter was bad...I "crawled under the car" to remove the starter while it was cold because I have a nice mini starter that saves me some weight off the front end and doesn't struggle with the 11:1 compression.
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From: Taylor Michigan
The answer is! Shields are only to protect the solenoid's bakelite cover on the end. Very brittle and heat will cause them to crack . The shield is not for protecting the starter. Ford uses a similar solenoid shield for there 429-460 engines as that starter incorporates a similar GM style switch.
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From: Florida
The problem with the OEM starter is that once the engine gets hot, the starter can't crank it over.
I will check the cranking voltage and I think I may also hook up a remote starter with the car in neutral and on ramps to see what the bendix looks like while it's trying to start.
I will check the cranking voltage and I think I may also hook up a remote starter with the car in neutral and on ramps to see what the bendix looks like while it's trying to start.
A VAT40 or similar. A lot of parts places will test for free these days.
As Ironcross said the cheapies don't use the proper magnets and poor windings, but don't guess, test it.
Safety Car
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From: Pettis Performance 565 with two stages of Nitrous Supply nitrous 1.082, 4.61 at 155, 7.17 at 192
The answer is! Shields are only to protect the solenoid's bakelite cover on the end. Very brittle and heat will cause them to crack . The shield is not for protecting the starter. Ford uses a similar solenoid shield for there 429-460 engines as that starter incorporates a similar GM style switch.
http://www.google.com/products?q=sta...oogle&ct=title
Last edited by 69 N.O.X. RATT; Apr 24, 2007 at 05:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Clymer PA
I have personally have over 1/2 a dozen high compression engines {11-1+} and all are equipped with OEM starters directly from our parts inventory identical to those we sell over the counter to the public. There is nothing trick about them except of very high quality. I may be spoiled by offering these units to our customers but they don't fail at any HP rating. I too am also aware there is a awful lot of junk out there. I`m sorry you cant get quality and have to resort to other alternatives. But properly tuned engines are normally running almost before your hand is off the key, that's how good they are.