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2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
B A T T E R Y Cable help ???
B A T T E R Y Cable help ???
I'm replacing the battery & also want to replace the cables as well as they are corroded & spliced somewhere in the middle not making a good clean, connection.
Here is my delema........does anyone know the measurements of both cables ? ( 1968 BB TOP MOUNT ) i was able to see the negative with appears to be only about 12" I have no idea how long the positive cable is, anyone know ?
Next issue is all of the vette supply houses sell the factory replacements, which were spring loaded, i was told these do not make the best connections & wear out.
All of the after market places like pep boys, autobarn, nappa, etc sell them as sets that are 32" i know that this is incorrect, can anyone help ? ( DISC FROM GM )
The factory i believe was 4 gauge, would you go to 2 gauge, whats your opinion ?
Would you just buy the wire, cut it yourself to size & add the connectors & terminal clamps yourself ?
Lastly, i see what appears to be the remains of a braided ground strap near the cross member, can anyone verify this, & where it goes to or from ?
The original battery cable lengths were as follows.
Center of hole to center of hole on the ground cable was 18”. Center of hole to center of hole on the positive cable was a whopping 85”.
The braided cable you are seeing on the cross member is for radio noise suppression. I assume you are talking about the center cross member and if I’m right it’s located on the outside edges of where exhaust pipes come through the cross member. There should be one on each side.
The other end of this cable was put on the clamp when the car was assembled new. When the exhaust was replaced they probably just cut the cable.
You should also have a ground cable located at the number two frame mount position at the fire wall and one on the antenna mounting grounding plate.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Well, I can tell you the battery cable runs from the battery box to the starter and it runs under the transmission tunnel insulation and it is fun to replace with the tranny in place. I have no idea what the length is.
As for the braid ground strap you see on the crossmember, mine was connected to the exhaust clamp in the middle there. I could not tell you if that was correct or not though.
you are much better off to make your own cables including various ground straps.
All the cable and ends are available at a welding supply and last forever. See pics in this thread.
You will eliminate most hot start problems too. I use marine batteries from Costco <than 50 bucks and they have both sets of terminals and use a ground disconnect.
you are much better off to make your own cables including various ground straps.
All the cable and ends are available at a welding supply and last forever. See pics in this thread.
You will eliminate most hot start problems too. I use marine batteries from Costco <than 50 bucks and they have both sets of terminals and use a ground disconnect.
The new Delco cables are all copper - or at least they were 10 years ago.
With the driveshaft and exhaust out, you can get to all but one of the positive cable clamps. I'm just going to loop it over the top of that last clamp and keep the run fairly taut.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
The new Delco cables are all copper - or at least they were 10 years ago.
With the driveshaft and exhaust out, you can get to all but one of the positive cable clamps. I'm just going to loop it over the top of that last clamp and keep the run fairly taut.
this is starting to sound like a major project............
You have the measurements, but yes installing a positive cable is a job! Plus it has a large grommet on it where it runs out the battery box. If you replace the cable with a generic cable, you will need to cut this off the original and use it over to seal up the box tray
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Willcox Corvette
You have the measurements, but yes installing a positive cable is a job! Plus it has a large grommet on it where it runs out the battery box. If you replace the cable with a generic cable, you will need to cut this off the original and use it over to seal up the box tray
Willcox
gustimate ? how long to install.........i guess i'm not doing this with a floor jack...........need a lift !
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Originally Posted by Dream Bikes
Does someone have a picture or a tech draw that show me where runs exactly the positive battery cable??
i looked in all the manuels & books, including the large assembly one on my car & cant find it.......
if anyone has it that would be great to see.......
The POS cable runs from the battery compartment across to the pass side of the driveshaft tunnel and then to the starter. There are several clamps along there.
Noonie is right, making your own cable is a good idea, buying a repop cable is pretty much getting a Pig In A Poke, you just don't know what your getting.
The factory cable is large enough, but just. The ends are where the problems happen unless there is some external dammage. Weather and age get to the ends where the lug is crimped on the cable and cause corrosion and breaks. The resultant High Resistence is one of the causes of hard starts.
Not really. While I had the engine and tranny out (4 speed), I replaced my positive cable with a new one (had the molded end on the battery end). After a month, I began having intermittant starter/electrical problems. After much troubleshooting, it turns out the positive cable had a break somewhere in it. That sucker was expensive. Luckily, I was able to get it out (not too bad since I put it in, it seems to help to take it out when you know how it's routed and attached. I got a 1 gauge cable (store was out of 2 gauge), some ends, and I made my own cable. Works great and less than half the price.
this is starting to sound like a major project............
It is. I just did mine and it was bit@#. The hardest part was getting the grommets through the holes. I did my positve cable without removing the driveshaft or anything else. Its difficult and tedious but can be done.
it is ......and you will have to cut and abandon a portion of the old one if you have an autotrans since you cant get at the retaining clips
You can get to five of the six clips with the driveshaft out. I THINK I can loosen the one at the front of the tunnel enough to slip the new cable through - it's on a stud, not a screw like the other five.
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
The factory cable is large enough, but just. The ends are where the problems happen unless there is some external dammage. Weather and age get to the ends where the lug is crimped on the cable and cause corrosion and breaks. The resultant High Resistence is one of the causes of hard starts.
Actually, as noonie (I think) has pointed out, the factory cable is a piece of aluminum garbage. Apparently Delco removed their head from their azz and started making the replacement cables out of pure copper - my new (well, 10 years old but unused) Delco positive cable is about twice as heavy as the old one. Having the grommets already on the cable is nice.
i took good photos of the before (the factory installation) which also happened to not agree with the AIM (they probably just installed any way they felt on a given day). i think this is one of those jobs that you put off 'till the tranny is out, you have to pull back the tunnel insulation too, unless the wire has just given up completely . . .