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Please help! I have a 73 BB that I'm rebuilding the front suspension on. I'm having trouble getting the lower control arm bushings in. I have both partially in with the control arm shaft in place but I can't seem to get the bushing on either side through the second whole. Any advice on how other forum members did this would be appreciated. I'm using a hammer and a piece of pipe that fit over the bushing and onto the lip of the bushing. I go around the pipe hitting it with the hammer which drives the bushing in. Is there a better way? This method worked well on the uppers.
Thanks
Tony
That's the way I did mine. I used a socket that fit over the rubber on both ends and tapped them in. I put a little bearing grease on them to make them go in a little easier, but it was a PITA.
How hard were you hitting the socket? I was hitting the metal pipe I was using pretty hard and was getting no where.
I was wacking it pretty hard. I used my vise to hold the socket. Then put the control arm bushing over it. Held it by the shaft, put the other socket over the top bushing and started wacking it. Is it lined up with the second hole?
Wont help you this time but for others.
Put bushings in the freezer for a hour or 2 prior to installing.
Also works well for U-joints and bearing races
Please help! I have a 73 BB that I'm rebuilding the front suspension on. I'm having trouble getting the lower control arm bushings in. I have both partially in with the control arm shaft in place but I can't seem to get the bushing on either side through the second whole. Any advice on how other forum members did this would be appreciated. I'm using a hammer and a piece of pipe that fit over the bushing and onto the lip of the bushing. I go around the pipe hitting it with the hammer which drives the bushing in. Is there a better way? This method worked well on the uppers.
Thanks
Tony
I did mine basically the same way. I had a large socket under the hole, just a little bigger than the hole. Then I had a large socket on top of the bushing, the same size as the bushing face, then drove it in with a 5 lb hammer. I used anti-seize for a lube. That was messy; still is.
When I did mine, some people warned me that some name brand bushings weren't tapered and don't go in right. I used Clevite bearings and had no problem.
Wont help you this time but for others.
Put bushings in the freezer for a hour or 2 prior to installing.
Also works well for U-joints and bearing races
Thats good advice there slimm.. Ill remember that..
I am at the exact same step on the 71' rebuild. In the Chevy manual it shows a buch of custom tools that support the space between the hinge points so the compression of the hydraulic press doesn't distort the A-arm too badly. I made these tools from the picture and I am still stuck. I made a press with a 6-ton bottle jack and still bending the arms - they do spring back but I imagine there is a point of no return.
How does one support the arm so you dont bend up the arm too bad when slamming it with the "5 pounds of persuasion"?
I am at the exact same step on the 71' rebuild. In the Chevy manual it shows a buch of custom tools that support the space between the hinge points so the compression of the hydraulic press doesn't distort the A-arm too badly. I made these tools from the picture and I am still stuck. I made a press with a 6-ton bottle jack and still bending the arms - they do spring back but I imagine there is a point of no return.
How does one support the arm so you dont bend up the arm too bad when slamming it with the "5 pounds of persuasion"?
I got to the same point on my 73. I made up the supports as per the pictures in the manual. Stuffed around all day. In the end I thought F#@#@ it. Took my arms and bushes to the shop and had them pressed in by a pro. Some jobs are better with a bit of help.
I am at the exact same step on the 71' rebuild. In the Chevy manual it shows a buch of custom tools that support the space between the hinge points so the compression of the hydraulic press doesn't distort the A-arm too badly. I made these tools from the picture and I am still stuck. I made a press with a 6-ton bottle jack and still bending the arms - they do spring back but I imagine there is a point of no return.
How does one support the arm so you dont bend up the arm too bad when slamming it with the "5 pounds of persuasion"?
There are special tools for this job.... in the GM Service Manual.
I bought them... use them for every set of arms I do.
Keeps the arms from bending. The shafts should rotate freely by hand when you are done. If they don't you've bent the arms.
But don't tell anybody.... they'll call you "Chicken Little".