dizzy rebuild
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: liberty mo
dizzy rebuild
im looking through a jegs magazine at HEI tune up kits, im wanting to rebuild mine and perk it up some. replace cap,rotor,coil,module,spring and weights. anybody have any suggestions on which one might be better than any of the others. I realy can't see any diff in them. im looking at the pertronix and the HEI hi-pro kit and MSD ultimate HEI kit.
thanks in advance for your help.
thanks in advance for your help.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 647
Likes: 22
From: Norwalk CT and Boynton Beach FL
I went the Printronics route --- but I replaced the entire distributor as well and bought the entire package because the centrifical advance mechanism in my stock distributor kept freezing up and this gizmo needs to move freely to provide the optimum timing. Works fine. I also replaced the plugs and ignition wires and spent several hours tuning it to perfection (see tuning/timing thread in this forum). Makes a BIG difference over stock set-up.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: liberty mo
yes that is a good thread, i have read it too, a couple of times. i have a dizzy out of 79 l82 that im going to rebuild,have already taken it apart and put it through my bead blaster,cleaned up and lubed. my original dizzy has been rebuilt too, but since my car is pretty much original except for some performance parts i have installed i want to leave the factory parts factory,i clean them up rebuild them and then store them away. never know someday i might want to put it back factory. i have a 78 L82. but for now just want to play with the car some.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
you can play with the different springs to get the curve to come in when you want but whatever you do DON'T use the replacement weights, stick with the stock weights. A high quality replacement cap and rotor is also fine.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: liberty mo
i have done that to my original dis. so those HEI tune up kits with a diff module and coil are not worth spending the $$$ on, no real gain with them. thats what i guess i was after if they are any better than stock.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
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From: liberty mo
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 290
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From: Omaha, NE
A stock 1979 L82 HEI will give only 16 degrees mechanical advance no matter what springs you use. The L48 mainshaft assembly will give 20 or so and then different springs can detemine when that comes in. I'm running 34 degrees total with a 14 degree vac can getting up to 48 at cruise. No hard starts, surging or pinging with 19mpg consistently. Check the table in the GM service manual at end of the emissions section. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
stick with the stock weights? what is the diff between the after mkt and the stock. i put the after mkt weights on my 78 dis with the gold springs but the full mechanical timing was comming in at to high an RPM,i think some where around 4,000. so i put both the black springs on and im all in around 2800 rpm now, but i have noticed it comes in a little to early about 1000 rpm. would the stock weights fix that and try the gold springs again.
Basically, I believe the difference comes down that stock weights are specific for a particular model distributor and designed curve and the aftermarket weights are generic. Generic is like "universal fit" which usually relates to that it universally fits nothing!
I've never personally compared aftermrket and stock weights side by side to see if the geometry is really different or if the weight differs but there are countless posts describing problems after using aftermarket weights that disappear once the factory stock parts are reinstalled and most of the distributor experts I've ever spoken to and/or seen post all say the same thing - stick with the stock weights rather than the aftermarket parts.
As for the springs, the aftermarket springs in the rebuild kits are fine, it's just a matter of a bit of trial and error sometimes trying out various combinations of the springs to get the timing to come in when you want it and all in at the RPM you desire without the timing coming in too soon or too late.
I personally prefer to have the timing all in somewhere between 2800-3000 rpm although many people prefer to bring it all in by 2500 rpm.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: liberty mo
aftermarket weights are known to give very different operating characteristics than the stock weights - the weight amount and the geometry is different.
Basically, I believe the difference comes down that stock weights are specific for a particular model distributor and designed curve and the aftermarket weights are generic. Generic is like "universal fit" which usually relates to that it universally fits nothing!
I've never personally compared aftermrket and stock weights side by side to see if the geometry is really different or if the weight differs but there are countless posts describing problems after using aftermarket weights that disappear once the factory stock parts are reinstalled and most of the distributor experts I've ever spoken to and/or seen post all say the same thing - stick with the stock weights rather than the aftermarket parts.
As for the springs, the aftermarket springs in the rebuild kits are fine, it's just a matter of a bit of trial and error sometimes trying out various combinations of the springs to get the timing to come in when you want it and all in at the RPM you desire without the timing coming in too soon or too late.
I personally prefer to have the timing all in somewhere between 2800-3000 rpm although many people prefer to bring it all in by 2500 rpm.
Basically, I believe the difference comes down that stock weights are specific for a particular model distributor and designed curve and the aftermarket weights are generic. Generic is like "universal fit" which usually relates to that it universally fits nothing!
I've never personally compared aftermrket and stock weights side by side to see if the geometry is really different or if the weight differs but there are countless posts describing problems after using aftermarket weights that disappear once the factory stock parts are reinstalled and most of the distributor experts I've ever spoken to and/or seen post all say the same thing - stick with the stock weights rather than the aftermarket parts.
As for the springs, the aftermarket springs in the rebuild kits are fine, it's just a matter of a bit of trial and error sometimes trying out various combinations of the springs to get the timing to come in when you want it and all in at the RPM you desire without the timing coming in too soon or too late.
I personally prefer to have the timing all in somewhere between 2800-3000 rpm although many people prefer to bring it all in by 2500 rpm.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
thanks, that was some good info and just what i was looking for. i went and bought some new parts tonight plus a recurve kit,the factory weights will be going back in. luckily one of our forum members TimAt offered to come over tommorow and help me set it up,from talking to him on the phone he has many years of experince in the automotive field, and works on airplanes too. so im going to pick his brain and watch closely,their is nothing like learning from somebody that has been their done that. oh yeah purchased a new t/signal switch tim said peice of cake.don't know how i can ever re-pay somebody for this.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: liberty mo
yes and a heck of a nice guy too, take time out of his day off to come over and help me, says alot. i have a pretty good background turning wrenches too,on cars and planes. but there is always room for improvement. like i mentioned earlier "nothing like learning from somebody who has been their done that" many times. isn't this forum great between Tim and you Big2Bird im always learning.
maybe thats why im 41 and in college for the 2nd time for a diffrent degree, either crazy or just cant get enough.
between Tim and you Big2Bird im always learning.maybe thats why im 41 and in college for the 2nd time for a diffrent degree, either crazy or just cant get enough.
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 242
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From: Riverside CA
a time or two im guessing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,500
Likes: 1,508
From: Little Rock AR
FYI - I put the Pertronix HEI upgrade kit in my distributor. The stock '80 has a very bad curve and the Pertronix curve kit actualy has decent parts in it. The center autocam plate is removable on an HEI so it is not welded like an old school points style distributor. You just remove and replace the autocam. The weights come with nylon bushings and the distributor has nylon weight glides. The mechanisim does not bind. You get some springs in the kit but I think I used some from my stash. It also comes with an adjustable vacuum advance canister. I do not remember off the top of my head where the initial will fall but it is in the 11° -13° BTC range so it is pretty good for what we want.
Here is the part that sucked!
The electronics! The car would run fine for a few minutes then start to misfire and die intermittantly. I limped back to the garage and it repeated again along the way. After checking everythnig else, I popped the GM coil/module back in there and the issues went away. Runs strong now.
I realy liked the curve kit but you have to buy the whole enchalada to get it.
The GM electronics are worth keeping IMHO.
-Mark.
Here is the part that sucked!
The electronics! The car would run fine for a few minutes then start to misfire and die intermittantly. I limped back to the garage and it repeated again along the way. After checking everythnig else, I popped the GM coil/module back in there and the issues went away. Runs strong now. I realy liked the curve kit but you have to buy the whole enchalada to get it.
The GM electronics are worth keeping IMHO. -Mark.
