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How do you measure for correct push rod length?

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Old May 4, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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Default How do you measure for correct push rod length?

I got my new used heads for my old 406.. (bought those heads off Ebay) I'll have them checked for any issues by a machine shop next week before I'll install them. They are RHS (Pro Topline) 235 cc heads which were FULLY ported and cut (milled) to 56 cc. They have .750 lift dual springs on them with titanium retainers. (Valves are 2.08/1.60)
Now I wonder if I'll be able to use the pushrods that I used in combination with my Dart Pro 1 heads (which also had been cut to 56 cc). However, my Dart Pro 1 heads had .700 lift dual springs, so the spring height might be different.

How do I determine how long the pushrods have to be for ideal geometry???

Last edited by GrandSportC3; May 4, 2007 at 11:21 AM.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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Ah! I just went throught his same thing. I got an adjustable pushrod length checker. I picked the number one cylinder and set up my rockers/studs/valves using the adjustable pushrod. You want to have the roller rocker "centered" over the valve stem at 1/2 valve lift. the total travel of the rocker bearing over the valve stem should stay in the middle 1/3 of the stem. Also the geometry of the stud/pushrod should be as close to parallel as possible.

There are some pretty good reads online...I will see if I can recall the links.

Good Luck.








http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/1814/

Last edited by oregonsharkman; May 4, 2007 at 11:47 AM.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by oregonsharkman
Ah! I just went throught his same thing. I got an adjustable pushrod length checker. I picked the number one cylinder and set up my rockers/studs/valves using the adjustable pushrod. You want to have the roller rocker "centered" over the valve stem at 1/2 valve lift. the total travel of the rocker bearing over the valve stem should stay in the middle 1/3 of the stem. Also the geometry of the stud/pushrod should be as close to parallel as possible.

There are some pretty good reads online...I will see if I can recall the links.

Good Luck.








http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/

http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles/1814/
Thanks!
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Old May 4, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Good info posted above!

If you're using hyd rollers be careful when figuring this out, they collapse slightly sometimes without oil pressure giving you a false indication.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
Good info posted above!

If you're using hyd rollers be careful when figuring this out, they collapse slightly sometimes without oil pressure giving you a false indication.

I was gonna mention that but I am pretty sure GSC3 is using solid lifters.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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I'm pretty sure that with .700" lift you're using solid lifters.... hydraulic lifters must be shimmed "solid" to measure pushrod length.

I adjusted my adjustable pushrod checking tool to 7.400" and installed a solid lifter, adjusted the rocker arm nut and rotated the crank two turns. I had black Sharpie ink on the valve tip, after two crank rotations there was a shiny stripe right at the center of the valve tip indicating that the pushrod length is correct.

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Old May 4, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
Good info posted above!

If you're using hyd rollers be careful when figuring this out, they collapse slightly sometimes without oil pressure giving you a false indication.
It's a solid roller setup!!
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Old May 4, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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I've been seeing/reading lately that full lift should be at center of tip which makes sense to me. Starting position still at inner 1/3. (My .02)
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Old May 4, 2007 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Surfer69
I've been seeing/reading lately that full lift should be at center of tip which makes sense to me. Starting position still at inner 1/3. (My .02)
Yeah I noticed that my roller tip didn't travel very far over the valve stem. I ended up just slightly off center at 0 lift and just slightly over center at full lift. More like <1/4 of the valve stem area. But I suppose that is a good thing.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Hey Oliver also check this link, This is a handy tool to check pushrod lenght, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/536,...h-Checker.html
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Old May 4, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BLACK SHARK
Hey Oliver also check this link, This is a handy tool to check pushrod lenght, very easy to use. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/536,...h-Checker.html
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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I'd think a Sharpie would maybe not rub off as well as it should to give you a good pattern.

I'd get a bottle of machinists' dye.. Dykem? I think it is. Dark blue, and will leave a coat so thin you can scratch it with a fingernail.

I don't know, maybe a SHarpie will too? Not trying to rain on a parade, I'm just asking here.
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Old May 5, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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I found crayon worked best for me. Sharpie would barely make marks once it dried hard. Crayon would wipe off easy for re-do's and was easy to read.
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Old May 6, 2007 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BLACK SHARK
Hey Oliver also check this link, This is a handy tool to check pushrod lenght, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/536,...h-Checker.html
Thanks!
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Old May 6, 2007 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I'd think a Sharpie would maybe not rub off as well as it should to give you a good pattern.

I'd get a bottle of machinists' dye.. Dykem? I think it is. Dark blue, and will leave a coat so thin you can scratch it with a fingernail.

I don't know, maybe a SHarpie will too? Not trying to rain on a parade, I'm just asking here.
I could not live without Dykem Bluing.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MYBAD79
I'm pretty sure that with .700" lift you're using solid lifters.... hydraulic lifters must be shimmed "solid" to measure pushrod length.

I adjusted my adjustable pushrod checking tool to 7.400" and installed a solid lifter, adjusted the rocker arm nut and rotated the crank two turns. I had black Sharpie ink on the valve tip, after two crank rotations there was a shiny stripe right at the center of the valve tip indicating that the pushrod length is correct.

I have a queston for you about this: I believe you mentioned you were using hyd lifters and you bought one to modify so it was now solid to use so you could determine the correct pushrod length without the lifter collapsing.

So you put in the modified lifter, assemble everything, use an adjustable pushrod and determine for the sake of arguement that the pushrod length should be 7.400. Now you install the hyd lifter, put in your new pushrod at 7.400 and snug the rocker to the pushrod..........then you give it 1/2 or 3/4 turn to set the adjustment on the lifter. That now puts the pushrod down inside the lifter collapsing the spring, effectively changing the pushrod length.

Does the lifter stay in that relative position after it's set or does the oil pressure bring up the seat in the lifter to the top so it resembles the solid one thereby restoring the correct geometry?


Bill
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Here's another good one.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...pushrod_length
Eddie
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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I have tried the dye or sharpie or whatever, it is a waste of time, if you can't see the travel with your eyeballs somethings wrong
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
I'd think a Sharpie would maybe not rub off as well as it should to give you a good pattern.

I'd get a bottle of machinists' dye.. Dykem? I think it is. Dark blue, and will leave a coat so thin you can scratch it with a fingernail.

I don't know, maybe a SHarpie will too? Not trying to rain on a parade, I'm just asking here.
I use dark blue sharpie and it works well for me.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:09 PM
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CompCams' Hi-Tech checking pushrods are very cool. Easy to use and read like a mic.
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