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I got my new used heads for my old 406.. (bought those heads off Ebay) I'll have them checked for any issues by a machine shop next week before I'll install them. They are RHS (Pro Topline) 235 cc heads which were FULLY ported and cut (milled) to 56 cc. They have .750 lift dual springs on them with titanium retainers. (Valves are 2.08/1.60)
Now I wonder if I'll be able to use the pushrods that I used in combination with my Dart Pro 1 heads (which also had been cut to 56 cc). However, my Dart Pro 1 heads had .700 lift dual springs, so the spring height might be different.
How do I determine how long the pushrods have to be for ideal geometry???
Last edited by GrandSportC3; May 4, 2007 at 11:21 AM.
Ah! I just went throught his same thing. I got an adjustable pushrod length checker. I picked the number one cylinder and set up my rockers/studs/valves using the adjustable pushrod. You want to have the roller rocker "centered" over the valve stem at 1/2 valve lift. the total travel of the rocker bearing over the valve stem should stay in the middle 1/3 of the stem. Also the geometry of the stud/pushrod should be as close to parallel as possible.
There are some pretty good reads online...I will see if I can recall the links.
Ah! I just went throught his same thing. I got an adjustable pushrod length checker. I picked the number one cylinder and set up my rockers/studs/valves using the adjustable pushrod. You want to have the roller rocker "centered" over the valve stem at 1/2 valve lift. the total travel of the rocker bearing over the valve stem should stay in the middle 1/3 of the stem. Also the geometry of the stud/pushrod should be as close to parallel as possible.
There are some pretty good reads online...I will see if I can recall the links.
I'm pretty sure that with .700" lift you're using solid lifters.... hydraulic lifters must be shimmed "solid" to measure pushrod length.
I adjusted my adjustable pushrod checking tool to 7.400" and installed a solid lifter, adjusted the rocker arm nut and rotated the crank two turns. I had black Sharpie ink on the valve tip, after two crank rotations there was a shiny stripe right at the center of the valve tip indicating that the pushrod length is correct.
I've been seeing/reading lately that full lift should be at center of tip which makes sense to me. Starting position still at inner 1/3. (My .02)
Yeah I noticed that my roller tip didn't travel very far over the valve stem. I ended up just slightly off center at 0 lift and just slightly over center at full lift. More like <1/4 of the valve stem area. But I suppose that is a good thing.
I'm pretty sure that with .700" lift you're using solid lifters.... hydraulic lifters must be shimmed "solid" to measure pushrod length.
I adjusted my adjustable pushrod checking tool to 7.400" and installed a solid lifter, adjusted the rocker arm nut and rotated the crank two turns. I had black Sharpie ink on the valve tip, after two crank rotations there was a shiny stripe right at the center of the valve tip indicating that the pushrod length is correct.
I have a queston for you about this: I believe you mentioned you were using hyd lifters and you bought one to modify so it was now solid to use so you could determine the correct pushrod length without the lifter collapsing.
So you put in the modified lifter, assemble everything, use an adjustable pushrod and determine for the sake of arguement that the pushrod length should be 7.400. Now you install the hyd lifter, put in your new pushrod at 7.400 and snug the rocker to the pushrod..........then you give it 1/2 or 3/4 turn to set the adjustment on the lifter. That now puts the pushrod down inside the lifter collapsing the spring, effectively changing the pushrod length.
Does the lifter stay in that relative position after it's set or does the oil pressure bring up the seat in the lifter to the top so it resembles the solid one thereby restoring the correct geometry?