1980 L48 Engine Mount Replace
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Royal Oak Michigan
1980 L48 Engine Mount Replace
1980 L48 2004R
Will performing my pressure check procedures from BTO on my new 2004R- I noticed that while doing the 1500 rpm check the engine lifted on the driver side seems like a 1.5 inches- so my engine mount must be bad.
Are there any tricks to replacing the engine mount.
1. support engine at oil pan? (what is the best way to do this?)
2. Remove bolts
3. insert new mount
4. replace bolts
Any other tricks or is this more difficult than it sounds
Darrel1
Will performing my pressure check procedures from BTO on my new 2004R- I noticed that while doing the 1500 rpm check the engine lifted on the driver side seems like a 1.5 inches- so my engine mount must be bad.
Are there any tricks to replacing the engine mount.
1. support engine at oil pan? (what is the best way to do this?)
2. Remove bolts
3. insert new mount
4. replace bolts
Any other tricks or is this more difficult than it sounds
Darrel1
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
1980 L48 2004R
Will performing my pressure check procedures from BTO on my new 2004R- I noticed that while doing the 1500 rpm check the engine lifted on the driver side seems like a 1.5 inches- so my engine mount must be bad.
Are there any tricks to replacing the engine mount.
1. support engine at oil pan? (what is the best way to do this?)
2. Remove bolts
3. insert new mount
4. replace bolts
Any other tricks or is this more difficult than it sounds
Darrel1
Will performing my pressure check procedures from BTO on my new 2004R- I noticed that while doing the 1500 rpm check the engine lifted on the driver side seems like a 1.5 inches- so my engine mount must be bad.
Are there any tricks to replacing the engine mount.
1. support engine at oil pan? (what is the best way to do this?)
2. Remove bolts
3. insert new mount
4. replace bolts
Any other tricks or is this more difficult than it sounds
Darrel1
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo New York
As simple as you put it, that is what you do. My only suggestion would be to lossen the transmission mount bolts so that you can move the engine a little. Makes it easier to get the bolts in.
It is not a lot of fun...especially the driver's side...
Good Luck!!!
It is not a lot of fun...especially the driver's side...
Good Luck!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Royal Oak Michigan
Where do you lift the engine from??
I was under the car tonight and could not figure out a way to lift the engine without denting the oil pan. Am I missing something? Where do you lift from? front of the pan or behind the steering arms?
Need some help
Darrel1
Luckily I had some othe things to do so I did not waste too much time.
Need some help
Darrel1
Luckily I had some othe things to do so I did not waste too much time.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 337
Likes: 10
I just did my 81 in February, used the red urethane ones, the brand escapes me right this second. I lifted the engine as required with a 1/4 thick 6 x 10 inch piece of aluminum plate I had handy and bottle jack.
You will need to loosen the trans mount....and you should just do it the same night. Mine was shot
The drivers side went quick, the pass was a PAIN. I got smart around 3am and bevelled the tip of the last bolt I was trying to get into the motor. This did the trick. The precision of the holes in mine was remarkable....no slop, which made it difficult on the pass only. In retrospect, I would have hit both side of all mounting holes with a countersink bit, bevelled the tips of all three bolts, and maybe the through bolt as well.
The trans mount was fairly easy, but again, I would countersink holes slightly to get rid of 90 degree edge and bevel mounting bolts. If you loook around the vehicle, most of the stock hardware has some sort of reduced tip to ease insertion.
You will need to loosen the trans mount....and you should just do it the same night. Mine was shot
The drivers side went quick, the pass was a PAIN. I got smart around 3am and bevelled the tip of the last bolt I was trying to get into the motor. This did the trick. The precision of the holes in mine was remarkable....no slop, which made it difficult on the pass only. In retrospect, I would have hit both side of all mounting holes with a countersink bit, bevelled the tips of all three bolts, and maybe the through bolt as well.
The trans mount was fairly easy, but again, I would countersink holes slightly to get rid of 90 degree edge and bevel mounting bolts. If you loook around the vehicle, most of the stock hardware has some sort of reduced tip to ease insertion.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
I was under the car tonight and could not figure out a way to lift the engine without denting the oil pan. Am I missing something? Where do you lift from? front of the pan or behind the steering arms?
Need some help
Darrel1
Luckily I had some othe things to do so I did not waste too much time.
Need some help
Darrel1
Luckily I had some othe things to do so I did not waste too much time.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 457
Likes: 1
From: Royal Oak Michigan
Thanks for all the ideas. I just put a block of wood under the oil pan and it seemd like the pan was going to crush in when I started to lift so I stopped and decided I need to ask my fellow members.
Darrel1
Darrel1
