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If anyone remebers, I had hell with my 78. Was gonna burn it/run it into the Red River/Sale it... :nopity Apperently I could not do it. I am in the process of completly rebuilding the engine. The follow is the list: std crank, 6" rods, Keith Black 11.5 pistons, with mild heads and aCrane cam with 4.480 lift with 1.5 rockers( I have put in 1.6 roller rockers), Weiland Dual Plane with Holley 750cfm on top.
Now the est numbers are 281 hp / 246lb of torque @ 6000. :U ( I was trying for at least 300hp. Have a new Corbra I need to shut up :smash: )
Question 1. How do I determine what stall Torque Converter I need?
Question 2. Some People are telling me with this Piston, I will have ping problems. True? and if so what can I do to correct or will it do harm!
Question 3. Should I go ahead and rebuild the front end while the engine is out. The rear-end was just rebuilt at the first of the year.
Honestly, I nevver left, just got disgusted with the vette and complained too much :cry so I just quit talking and working on the vette... Back now tho :lol:
Re: I am Back and Still need help. (SprintCarDriver)
You will be happier with a compression ratio of 10 to 1 or less.
6 inch rods are for race cars that drive 3500 RPM and above full time. 5.7 rods will work better in a street motor.
Stock heads and a cam with 4.48 lift sound like they would want a stock convertor.
If you really want to see 300 HP, spend money on good cylinder heads and a bit more cam.
Agree with 1979toy, it's my understanding that with cast iron heads, anything over 9.5 : 1 can have detonation problems, and may have to 'de-tune' to avoid pinging problems. I understand that with new fast burn after market design aluminum heads, you can run 10.5 : 1, and maybe 11: 1. Depends on how much duration you have on camshaft to 'bleed off' some of that higher compression.
Re: I am Back and Still need help. (SprintCarDriver)
1. If this is a street car I wouldn't go much higher than 2500 rpm stall. 2200 might be better. These stalls are a little low for ultimate performance but it you gotta drive it on the street...
2. I have an Aluminum headed smallblock with 10.5:1 pistons, I don't get detonation with 92 octane, but I do ge dieseling:U I would never again build a street motor over 10:1, preferably 9.5:1 so I could run 87 octane...The performance gain BTW is only a few percent :rolleyes:
3. If the front end is loose I would definitly rebuild it...
Thanks for the reply. I thought that 24-2500 stall would be it but I did see talk in an earlier topic of a 3000. As a soon to be (again) daily driver the 2400 would most likely be the best.
he front end is not loose, with the exception of the bushings on the swaybar, just thinking of the diffulculty after the engine goes in.