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Old May 9, 2007 | 03:56 PM
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Default goodies for my engine

rhs heads?, scat crank vs eagle, weiand vs edelbrock(intakes)
i want to build a 383 with a broad torque curve- strictly for killing mustangs and imports. looking for at least 495lb/ft of torque, where do you draw the line between driveability and " do i really care if i only get 2miles/gallon?" i want to be able to run on pump gas also.

thanks.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:05 PM
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There is not much of a difference between the Eagle and the Scat crank. Why are you looking at 495 instead of 500? When you get that high, you probably should go with a forged setup.

If you have to go with a forged setup, you probably ought to go with the 396, rather than the 383. There isn't much difference, if any, in price. That should get you to the higher numbers.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:13 PM
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thankyou for the advice!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:22 PM
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I have this motor

http://www.masperformance.com/490_383.htm

except with DART heads.

Still has good enough vacuum for lights and brakes.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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thanks for the link!
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Old May 9, 2007 | 07:22 PM
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When I researched 2 years I received more positive feedback on the Scat 9000 series Steel Crank, same for Edelbrock Dual Plane Mainfold. Not sure about RHS heads, I used AFRs.

Check-out www.tandlengine.com
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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tonys96
I have this motor

http://www.masperformance.com/490_383.htm

except with DART heads.

Still has good enough vacuum for lights and brakes.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:18 PM
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Eagle, for sure. Whatever else you do, you ought to buy American performance parts.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 10:33 AM
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i agree with the 396 set up. that is what i am going with. the cost for the forged kit was around $1700 that was eagle crank, h-beam rods, srp flat top pistons, rings, bearings, arp rod bolts, machine work and balancing. i also went weiand team g on the intake. i got a custom crower cam also. i should be in the 500 tq 500 hp range. i also used afr heads milled to 72 cc's to get me to 10.5 to 1 comp. the motor is at the machine shop right now so i should have it back in the car in a few weeks. i will let you know how it runs compaired to the 383 it used to be. one thing i have noticed is that most people here always go bigger on the cubes when they rebuild. i havent seen where anyone that has gone bigger changed back to a smaller set up. just be ready to spend some money on the rest of the drive train.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 12:51 AM
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indeed i will, my money tree is just starting to bloom!
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:53 AM
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Default 396 or 402?

i like the idea of the 396 engine, but i am confused as to its displacement. some magazines refer to it as a big block- is that depending on what it is bored out to?, is it also referred to as the 402?
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Old May 18, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by pointy1
i like the idea of the 396 engine, but i am confused as to its displacement. some magazines refer to it as a big block- is that depending on what it is bored out to?, is it also referred to as the 402?
The factory 396 is a big block. It is one of the small varieties. A 396 stroker is a small block. It is accomplished by taking a standard small block (350), boring it .030 over and installing a crank with a 3.875 stroke. It gains the displacement by the longer stroke. The longer stroke is what gives you the added torque.

Same thing goes for the 383. You have a 350 bored .030 over with a 3.75 stroke crankshaft.

The stock 350 crank is 3.48 inches.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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The only difference between a 383 and a 396 build (other than the stroke of the crank) is down to the clearancing of the block and the need for stroker clearenced oil pan.
You have to do some clearencing of the oil pan rail and the bottom of the cylinder bores.
Check for cam clearence as well.

Nick
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Old May 18, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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i have learned that there are no stupid questions on this forum!
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