Please help! Ignition Lock stuck!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,165
Likes: 950
From: Keizer Oregon
Please help! Ignition Lock stuck!!
My ignition lock took a crap during the first start up off my new motor
The starter stuck ON and i had to disconnect the batt cable to turn it off. Talk about scrambling for a wrench
So my delima is: All of the manuals I have read disagree. Some say remove the steering wheel, others say different. So I have removed the steering wheel and everything else and still can not get to the lock.
I think the problem might be: I cannot turn the ignition to the "lock" position, it is stuck ON.
BTW car is a 76, no tilt, cruise or anything else.
Any suggestions???
The starter stuck ON and i had to disconnect the batt cable to turn it off. Talk about scrambling for a wrench So my delima is: All of the manuals I have read disagree. Some say remove the steering wheel, others say different. So I have removed the steering wheel and everything else and still can not get to the lock.
I think the problem might be: I cannot turn the ignition to the "lock" position, it is stuck ON.
BTW car is a 76, no tilt, cruise or anything else.
Any suggestions???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Thats a strange one. I suspect the bar that runs from the ignition to the electronic switch is jammed.
Lie on the carpet and look up. You should see a switch...small rectangular shaped thing...its above the column...wires will be going to it....on the other side will be a rod...thin like a coat hanger...goes from the switch to the key area...I think your problem is there. When you turn the key the bar clicks the switch to the start position...it springs back when you release the key...sounds like yours is jammed on "on".
Jim
Lie on the carpet and look up. You should see a switch...small rectangular shaped thing...its above the column...wires will be going to it....on the other side will be a rod...thin like a coat hanger...goes from the switch to the key area...I think your problem is there. When you turn the key the bar clicks the switch to the start position...it springs back when you release the key...sounds like yours is jammed on "on".
Jim
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
To get the cylinder to the lock position there is a cable acutated lever on the steering shaft right by the firewall(engine bay side). That has to be all the way up to allow the column to lock.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,165
Likes: 950
From: Keizer Oregon
All screws are removed. The housing that contains the ignition is completely disconnected from everything. No screws, no nothing left except the piece of the steering column that contains the ignition switch and the wire harness.
From my new lock it looks like the is a "tab" on the switch that locks it in. However It is basically unreachable. I appreciate all the suggestions.
It is pretty frustrating to fire up a brand new motor, have it run for 3 minutes, and then have the ignition switch go bad
On the plus side the motor seems to ROCK
From my new lock it looks like the is a "tab" on the switch that locks it in. However It is basically unreachable. I appreciate all the suggestions.
It is pretty frustrating to fire up a brand new motor, have it run for 3 minutes, and then have the ignition switch go bad
On the plus side the motor seems to ROCK
Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 702
Likes: 1
From: Sealy TX
St. Jude Donor 06-'07
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
Search this forum for ignition lock removal. There is are several how to articles by Jim Shea that are very informative. He explains in detail how to remove the lock from the column.
You can even search on Jim Shea.
cc
You can even search on Jim Shea.
cc
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
from Jim's article
If your steering column has never had the lock cylinder removed or replaced, there will most likely be a thin metal die cast membrane covering the slot. Keeping a thin bladed tool to the right side of the slot, break the housing flash and the same time depress the spring tab at the lower end of the lock cylinder. Also I have found that if you don't push the spring tab pretty much in the center it will not release the lock cylinder because it tends to rock side to side. Don't be tempted to pry on the lock cylinder wings to get the lock cylinder moving. The wings will pop off and can't be put back on. The lock cylinder should slide right out.
If your steering column has never had the lock cylinder removed or replaced, there will most likely be a thin metal die cast membrane covering the slot. Keeping a thin bladed tool to the right side of the slot, break the housing flash and the same time depress the spring tab at the lower end of the lock cylinder. Also I have found that if you don't push the spring tab pretty much in the center it will not release the lock cylinder because it tends to rock side to side. Don't be tempted to pry on the lock cylinder wings to get the lock cylinder moving. The wings will pop off and can't be put back on. The lock cylinder should slide right out.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Woodland Park Colorado
If I remember correctly there is a screw in pin behind the key busser switch holding it in. The key needs to be in the on position to get it out but it was last year when I did mine. Happened to me when I had new keys made then none would work right outside the hardware store. Finally got it to on position to get home. My is a 79 tho might be different.
Good luck
Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Just to clear up some terminology. The ignition lock cylinder is located in the steering column housing and is where you stick your ignition key. It is held in place by a thin metal tab that is spring loaded into a slot that is molded into the lock cylinder housing. The tab was used to hold the lock cylinder in place from 1969 through early 1979. The tab was eliminated midyear in 1979 and was replaced by a screw.
The ignition switch is down under the dash on top of your steering column.
The slot with the thin die cast skin is exactly 1.75 inches measured from the edge of the housing boss as shown below.
JIM
The ignition switch is down under the dash on top of your steering column.
The slot with the thin die cast skin is exactly 1.75 inches measured from the edge of the housing boss as shown below.
JIM
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
I'm confused. What are you removing the key cylinder or the ignition switch?
The key cylinder will not come out unless the key is in it. Can only be removed in the "run" position.
Jim
The key cylinder will not come out unless the key is in it. Can only be removed in the "run" position.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; May 15, 2007 at 09:27 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Not true! If the key is in the ignition lock cylinder, you must turn the key and switch to RUN. If the key is not in the ignition lock cylinder, you can just depress the tab and remove it.
If you are far enough along to just remove the lock cylinder from the column, you can then play with the cylinder and key and determine if the lock cylinder is operating correctly. You should be able to insert the key into the cylinder and it should smoothly rotate from START; to RUN; to OFF; to OFF-LOCK; and then you need to push in on the key to reach ACCESSORY. What you feel between START, RUN, OFF, and OFF-LOCK are the detents in the switch down under the dash. They are not in the lock cylinder itself. Unfortunately, I do not have the angle that the key should rotate through from START to OFF-LOCK.
If the switch feels good, your sticking problem is in the switch under the dash or it is in the plastic sector and die cast rack inside the steering column.
Jim
If you are far enough along to just remove the lock cylinder from the column, you can then play with the cylinder and key and determine if the lock cylinder is operating correctly. You should be able to insert the key into the cylinder and it should smoothly rotate from START; to RUN; to OFF; to OFF-LOCK; and then you need to push in on the key to reach ACCESSORY. What you feel between START, RUN, OFF, and OFF-LOCK are the detents in the switch down under the dash. They are not in the lock cylinder itself. Unfortunately, I do not have the angle that the key should rotate through from START to OFF-LOCK.
If the switch feels good, your sticking problem is in the switch under the dash or it is in the plastic sector and die cast rack inside the steering column.
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
Not true! If the key is in the ignition lock cylinder, you must turn the key and switch to RUN. If the key is not in the ignition lock cylinder, you can just depress the tab and remove it.
If you are far enough along to just remove the lock cylinder from the column, you can then play with the cylinder and key and determine if the lock cylinder is operating correctly. You should be able to insert the key into the cylinder and it should smoothly rotate from START; to RUN; to OFF; to OFF-LOCK; and then you need to push in on the key to reach ACCESSORY. What you feel between START, RUN, OFF, and OFF-LOCK are the detents in the switch down under the dash. They are not in the lock cylinder itself. Unfortunately, I do not have the angle that the key should rotate through from START to OFF-LOCK.
If the switch feels good, your sticking problem is in the switch under the dash or it is in the plastic sector and die cast rack inside the steering column.
Jim
If you are far enough along to just remove the lock cylinder from the column, you can then play with the cylinder and key and determine if the lock cylinder is operating correctly. You should be able to insert the key into the cylinder and it should smoothly rotate from START; to RUN; to OFF; to OFF-LOCK; and then you need to push in on the key to reach ACCESSORY. What you feel between START, RUN, OFF, and OFF-LOCK are the detents in the switch down under the dash. They are not in the lock cylinder itself. Unfortunately, I do not have the angle that the key should rotate through from START to OFF-LOCK.
If the switch feels good, your sticking problem is in the switch under the dash or it is in the plastic sector and die cast rack inside the steering column.
Jim
Doesn't inserting the key depress the Tab? Just curious.
Jim
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
In order to remove the key from the lock cylinder, the lock cylinder must be in the OFF-LOCK position. In the OFF-LOCK position, the plastic tab sticks up with the key in place, it drops down into the lock cylinder when the key is removed.
Now, with the key in the lock cylinder, in all positions (except RUN) the key would cause the plastic tab to stick up. This could damage the key warning buzzer if you tried to pull the lock cylinder with the tab sticking up.
Jim
Now, with the key in the lock cylinder, in all positions (except RUN) the key would cause the plastic tab to stick up. This could damage the key warning buzzer if you tried to pull the lock cylinder with the tab sticking up.
Jim
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,165
Likes: 950
From: Keizer Oregon
In order to remove the key from the lock cylinder, the lock cylinder must be in the OFF-LOCK position. In the OFF-LOCK position, the plastic tab sticks up with the key in place, it drops down into the lock cylinder when the key is removed.
Now, with the key in the lock cylinder, in all positions (except RUN) the key would cause the plastic tab to stick up. This could damage the key warning buzzer if you tried to pull the lock cylinder with the tab sticking up.
Jim
Now, with the key in the lock cylinder, in all positions (except RUN) the key would cause the plastic tab to stick up. This could damage the key warning buzzer if you tried to pull the lock cylinder with the tab sticking up.
Jim
Thansk Jim. Part of the problem was that I could start the car without the key in it
So even without the key in, the plastic tab was sticking up. I was able to get it pushed down with a small screwdriver, but for some reason I can't depress the lock cylinder retainer?? I have "fished" for it with a small screwdriver and a piece of metal but it feels like the tab doesn't move and is locked in place.
Last edited by oregonsharkman; May 15, 2007 at 12:51 PM.
