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O.K. - I've just spent 6 hours trying to reinstall my rebuilt 350 engine into my 1970 convertible. I can't get the manual transmission to mate up with the engine. I get within about 1/2" (the length of the tip of the input shaft) of the transmission mating with the bell housing but no further.
Use the alignment tool to make sure everything is lined up. Then when you get to that 1/2 inch point, depress the clutch (or move the clutch fork like the clutch was being depressed) and it should slide in the rest of the way. You might also try rotating the tranny slightly with it in gear to make sure the teeth align. Don't tighten the bolts to pull it on.
If it's a new transmission, you got the correct number of teeth on the shaft, right?
My guess is the input shaft is not going into the pilot bearing.
I used an alignment tool to line up the clutch and pilot bearing.
I've tried everything except depressing the clutch. What does that do that allows the engine to go the rest of the way? Do I need to reconnect the clutch pedal or am I able to depress the clutch fork from under the car?
Just installed my new LT-1 yesterday. We put a jack under the tranny and jacked it up a few inchs then lowered the motor. It took two of us and a long pry bar that we put between the motor and cross member & used it to push the engine back. After a few trys it went in. Just like "butter" G/L
Just installed my new LT-1 yesterday. We put a jack under the tranny and jacked it up a few inchs then lowered the motor. It took two of us and a long pry bar that we put between the motor and cross member & used it to push the engine back. After a few trys it went in. Just like "butter" G/L
PS the key is a buddy to help.
I just did this last week. A jack under the trans is often the fix. It allows you to easily move the trans up and down and side to side to get the location you need.
Make sure the bellhousing is indexed to zero.(Longshot) And while you're there, put studs in the bell with some locktite. This will make it much easier to hold the trans in place while you work the trans into position.
Having someone depress the clutch allows the disc to release, and you will then have true alignment.
The plastic alignment tools only get you so far. I keep a used input shaft around to get perfect alignment of the disc and pilot.
Three more hours at it and still no success - and this is with helpers who have been there before. We get within about 1 1/2 inches from the transmission and engine mating and then no more progress.
I have a concern that my clutch disk is installed backwards. There's no markings that say flywheel side or anything like that. There is a dab of yellow paint on one side. The only visible difference I can detect from each side is that the center hub that accepts the transmission shaft is a little longer on one side.
There's no discernable difference in the way the springs look on either side of my clutch disk. The only difference is the shaft that slides onto the input shaft is a little longer on one side.
There's no discernable difference in the way the springs look on either side of my clutch disk. The only difference is the shaft that slides onto the input shaft is a little longer on one side.
I don't think this would make a 1 1/2 in. difference. Just curious - did you try the pilot bushing/bearing on the shaft before you installed it?
i had the same prob...come to find out the shop that cleaned the engine and supplied the new parts never removed the old bearing...so i ended up with 2 bearing in...removed the new one and it went in fine and works great! i used the plastic tool only
the bushing was installed by the engine rebuilder. I didn't take it out and try it on before I started the engine install.
There is a common problem with new pilot bushings being slightly oversize so when you drive them in they shrink becoming to small I.D. for the imput shaft to slide in. I've read over on chevelle.com many times you have to take a dremel & polish the inside of the pilot bearing to allow the imput shaft to slip in.