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Those of you that have done the swap...would you do it again? Was it worth the money and labor? Any problems installing? Any problems with alignment? Was the steering that much better? Is there a better kit out there? I will be doing the install myself so I want to get as much information as possible. Needless to say, I'll need it and more....Thanks guys.
I have just completed the conversion and this is an easy task that took no more than 3 hours with the car on the lift. Would I do it again – Properly not, the geometry of the tie rods is far from parallel with lower A-arms, causing lots of “bump steer”. There is too much play in the R & P unit for my taste (more than half an inch in the steering wheel). Paying that much money for a kit with built-in play from new is a no-go for me. I have compared my kit with another Steeroids equipped C3 and that car does have the same amount of play so it is not only my kit that have this problem. I have been told by the manufacturer to try and adjust the R & P unit by myself but I’m afraid to ruin the unit in the long run by making it too tight.
I have about 300 miles on my install. The installation was a 'piece of cake'. The installation instructions are good and comprehensive. The one thing I did notice was a clearance issue with one of the hydraulic lines. I was able to bend it enough to resolve it. I can feel no play in my setup. I find it very responsive and I have not noticed any 'bump steer'. At this point in time I would not think twice about installing the kit.
I could not see any advantage over the stock system. If you rebuild you own steering box and power system, it should function perfectly. The only problem with the stock system is that it gives little road feel and tends to leak.
I just put a steeriods rack on my '69, and yes I would do it again. I do not have any of the play in the steering wheel that Karsten has. Absolutely the smallest steering wheel movement will start to turn the wheels. The quicker ratio is welcome also. I didn't have any problems with the install and alignment was breeze for the shop. Also as the bump steer issues Karsten mentioned my kit came with a series of different sized washers to place at the tie rods connections to allow for parallel adjustment to minimize bump steer. It's set up a lot better than stock was in my opinion. I haven't got the car on the track yet but on the street it responses much better than especially a worn out stock system. But, I needed a new steering box and rag joint to start with and my control valve and ram needed either overhaul or replacement too. So, I think the steeriods system makes a lot of sense if don't care if your car is stock or not and you have a worn out stock system that you need to spend money on anyway and you like to do some spirited street driving or take your car on a road course at least occasionally.
I also had and 82 with a perfect stock system and the biggest difference there I saw was the quicker turning ratio as for as street driving is concered. That car had only a little play in the steering wheel but not much. It was a 99% stock Collector Edition, so no, I would not have even considered steeriods for it.
Went from manual to Steeriods, once I got the angles correct on the u-joints it has performed exellent, no binding and no steering slop what so ever. Pricey but since I had no pwer steering I was not going to pay almost the same for a OEM old tech set up.
I have just completed the conversion and this is an easy task that took no more than 3 hours with the car on the lift. Would I do it again – Properly not, the geometry of the tie rods is far from parallel with lower A-arms, causing lots of “bump steer”. There is too much play in the R & P unit for my taste (more than half an inch in the steering wheel). Paying that much money for a kit with built-in play from new is a no-go for me. I have compared my kit with another Steeroids equipped C3 and that car does have the same amount of play so it is not only my kit that have this problem. I have been told by the manufacturer to try and adjust the R & P unit by myself but I’m afraid to ruin the unit in the long run by making it too tight.
My install is not Steeroids....did it in my garage while they were working on getting production ramped up.....all I Know is there is a hell of huge improvement, mostly noticed at freeway speeds, no more of that wandering/constant attention at the wheel, wheel is still, just like a modern car....AND the ratio is 2.7 turns lock to lock now, not 3.8 or something silly....and I have a late shark TT column/wheel too....car is a '72....
larges single thing besided tires/wheels to improve ride/handling, then, it's springs/sway bars/shocks.....
brakes are another issue entirely....
you want to think your shark is a hotrod, you gotta update parts on it to modern standards, and 50's tech left over from some truck is not in the cards for that.....
If they are not parallel I guess the tie rods will work against the toe-in change. According to the installation manual, you have to use shims to make it parallel. Problem is my car is lowered at about one inch and the outer rod ends are way too short to get within range.
Also, according to Steeroids tech. line, there is supposed to be a little bit of play in the R & P unit from new - at least that was what I was told via mail, however my amount of play is way more than normal
If they are not parallel I guess the tie rods will work against the toe-in change. According to the installation manual, you have to use shims to make it parallel. Problem is my car is lowered at about one inch and the outer rod ends are way too short to get within range.
Also, according to Steeroids tech. line, there is supposed to be a little bit of play in the R & P unit from new - at least that was what I was told via mail, however my amount of play is way more than normal
Regards from Denmark
Karsten Horn
Karsten, did you replace the lower steering column bearing when you did your install? I bought a new replacement bearing thinking mine might be worn but it was tight anyway. I know this is one of the things that can create some play in the system.
Karsten, did you replace the lower steering column bearing when you did your install? I bought a new replacement bearing thinking mine might be worn but it was tight anyway. I know this is one of the things that can create some play in the system.
Thanks for the hint and as a matter of fact I have the lower bearing on order from Ecklers. I have a small amount of play in that lower bearing but it is very clear to see that I have a problem with the R & P unit itself.
If you take a look at this file you will see that there is an issue (BIG file):
That is me turning the steering column by hand/wheels on the ground, while recording with the other hand at the same time You can see that the input shaft on the R & P unit moves a lot while not turning the wheels (Even though I’m a Viking, I’m not that strong ).
If they are not parallel I guess the tie rods will work against the toe-in change. According to the installation manual, you have to use shims to make it parallel. Problem is my car is lowered at about one inch and the outer rod ends are way too short to get within range.
Also, according to Steeroids tech. line, there is supposed to be a little bit of play in the R & P unit from new - at least that was what I was told via mail, however my amount of play is way more than normal
Can someone post a picture of the "tierods" This kit is supposed to have tierods, from the pictures of the kit they have himerod.... Himerods can be dangerous after driving alot, having the joint exposed to dirt, and the dirt acting like sand paper....
Easy to install. No play at all with mine.
Installed it this winter, and have not been to the alignment shop yet, (And i have only beent testing the car for 5min.)so it is to early for me to say anything aboyt quality. but a real good first impression.