For some reason I am confused... Do you have the engine installed already or is it waiting to be installed...

 

I have the engine on a stand waiting to go in. My next step is to gather parts for the fuel system buildup. Then I can begin the install. I am trying to get everything that I might need, on hand to make it as easy as it can be.

 

Hello guys. Nice thread. I am getting things ready for a LS swap on my '68 vette. Have ordered the VBP total supsension package, rack attack and brakes. Will be doing a complete break down and rebuild. I have an extra LS6 and T56 for the project. I plan on using a stock LS6 cam, you guys looking for more are crazy. I have a race car for when the urge for more comes over me, but not on the street.

Some questions:
1. Will the loss of weight effect ride height, and what are you all doing about it?
2. Does the stock reaer end give any issues with this kind of increased HP/Torque, and can you beef it up by putting in a stronger pumpkin (I am not familiar with these C3's)
3. My '68 has factory a/c and I would like to keep it if possible. Anyone else trying to keep their's? Any success stories?

Thanks for the help. I will keep you all posted once I break into the project.

Brady Morehead

 

For the time being if I have to adjust ride height in the front I will probably just cut a coil or so off the front springs to get the ride height I like. I am going to take a few measurements and keep them for before and after. I am guessing the front should come up some, just how much is anyone guess.

Buddy, how much did yours come up when you put the LS in compared to the stock small block?

 

I would think the biggest problem you are going to face when working on the AC is the placement of the compressor. If I remember correctly, the ac compressor is down low on the LS motors and will not work in our cars. You can probably find some brackets that will allow the compressor to be moved up top. Then I guess getting the lines will be the next obstacle to over come. None of this should be too big of a sticking point though.

 

Brady - re your ?'s:

1. My 79 front ride height was way to high before I even swapped sbc350 for LS1, no before measures though. I just cut a full coil off the front a couple of weeks ago (while using front crossmember dent removal tool), reduced ride height by ~ 1.25" (from over 29" to about 28" to fender lip -still to high, but better for now). Would rather get fiberglass front cross spring, but gotta wait to save more $ (and other priorities like new paint ).

2. I also swapped out my old diff gearoil for Lucas 85W-140, after the swap it started making some noises when hot, but had old gearoil that had been sitting for 18 months! Rearend is running ok for now, no noises, seems to be running cooler (but summer is over also). When I eventually get TTII 17 wheels and sticker tires I may find the failure point (lots of fun burning rubber once in a while, the 255-60-15 BFG radial TAs spin like they are greased!)

3. For AC - as Eddie said, pass side high seems like the place for compressor. Mine had AC before, currently working to get brackets for pass high R4 - there are also drawings out there for pass side high 96 vette style compressor. S&P and others have nice, but pricey, brackets. Thinking of more modern condensor design also for more efficient heat transfer...

 

Home made tool to remove springs. Seems to work pretty good.

 

Blasphemy!!!

 

Your stock differential should be alright. L88's and the ZL1's produced more HP/Torque than the new LS7's. So your LS6 shouldn't hurt a thing. If it does, even though I doubt it would, you could always upgrade to a Tom's 12 bolt differential set-up (it is a much beefer IRS). If your not running more than 600 HP, your rear end in its stock form should be enough. I think the main reason why people would have a problem with an IRS is due to launches from a dead stop and burnouts. This is not to say that it will fail on you the first time you do one of those, but that is what I believe weakens them the most.

 

I've got a question about the motor mount plates that everyone seems to be using. The adapter plates put the center bolt of the old style 3 bolt mount in the lower front bolt hole on the LS1 block. I measured my 6.0L block and this hole is around 14 5/8" from the bellhousing flange of the block. Then I measured an old SBC block and found the center bolt hole to be 16" from the bellhousing flange. It seems to me that these mount adapter plates will move the motor ahead 1 3/8". Am I missing something?

 

Can't answer specifically but do know that many have used the Street & Performance adapter plates and it's been a bolt in situation. Might want to give tham a call at 479-394-5711 and ask about their plates.

I used the S&P Mounts but with a T56 tranny and it was a built in with an SRIII Tube Chassis but I cannot say how that will equate with a stock setup.

They also document and make availabel a bunch of install and tech articles for LSx conversions at:

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/New%20LS%20...ks%20page.html

Just click on "Installs" or "Tech info" at the top.

 

Here are a few pics that clearly show how the engine sits in the frame. The adapter plate I have uses the bolt hole you mentioned. The 2 main areas of concern with fitting the engine are the AC compressor - can't use the LS1 mounting location due to the engine mount, and the water pump connections. The heater hose inlet/outlets really need 90 degree fittings and the radiator hose needs a straight fitting.



Rick B.

 

(Nice Shots 72LS1!)

Different chassis, same principles. You can see the 90degree fittings and straight rad hose neck on on the waterpump. When installed, I actually went almost straight down with the 90degree fittings (they swivel) and ran the hoses along the lower frame rail.

I used -10 and -12 hose ends which mated perfectly with 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose respectively.

 

Has anyone used these with the stock 4 speed? That's what I'm doing so I need the back of the motor to be in the same place as stock.

 

Mmmmmmmmm - Shiney. I wish I had your budget!

Is that a T56 trans or a 5-speed? I was working on a mount adapter last weekend and came up with something that was almost too easy. The mount was landing right on the forward edge of the X-member so I made a plate that bolts to the trans and moves the mount back a couple of inches so that it bolts to the holes in the X-member. It looks like your mount sits a couple of inches closer to the engine than mine. I haven't leveled the frame yet and measured the tailshaft angle yet but it looks like your trans is angled down more than mine is at present.



Rick B.

 

T56 from an 02 Camaro.

 

Hot Rod, I just tested fitted our C4 brackets into a 71 to see how close they would be to working. This car is a heat only car so I still need to fit an AC evap box to the wall for a clearance check, but so far my C4 plates work in the C3s. I put the original muncie behind the engine and it sits right where it should. I will be testing a 700R4 and then a tremec TKO 5 speed as well. I don't have a T56 around for any fitting with it unfortunately. Anyone won't to loan me one? I'll also be making sure headers can be designed correctly before I say my brackets work in C3s. Yes, these headers will be available for sale for all you guys doing LSx swaps and they will be specifically designed for this application, none other. I'm also working on a Zbar bracket so those that choose to run their manual clutches can still do so.

The reason I bring this up is because I know where my bolt holes are and where other people's holes are at. Mine are not in the same location as others. I really have no idea how these multiple brackets with different bolt hole locations are all working. All I can think is the slotted holes in the trans mount bracket are enough.

Cars are looking great everyone. For those that aren't done yet or are wondering, it's totally worth all the effort involved. You will smile the first time you nail it after it's done. You won't stop smiling for a while either.

SA I did the same thing with the heater hose fittings when building C4orce. Same issues on a C4 with the outlets pointing right at the control arms as well.

 

Thank you very much. It looks like your brackets place the motor further back than the others. That's what I want. I don't want my motor moved ahead at all.

 

Well, it seems I spoke too soon. My C4 plates won't work as is because I forgot to put the water pump on last night. Put it on this morning and, bam, right into the control arm it went. I really wish those dang things weren't so wide. So it is back to the drawing board a little bit.

Hotrod, I believe I can still make a bracket design that will work without moving the transmission. It may end up being a one off custom type deal where I only make it for people who ask. I will let you know how it goes though. The headers working with those plates is up in the air though. I will have to design the headers to work with the OD transmissions since that is what everyone uses for the most part. I can see now that the plates will be designed differently to accomodate the OD transmissions.

Rick B., is that an Evans water pump? I am having a hard time placing it and I thought they made one.

Thanks
Trey

 

Trey,

The pump is a Meziere LS1. Quite expensive - I'm glad it was already on the engine when I bought it. The straight fittings MIGHT be useable but I think the hoses will be too close to the control arm. 45 degree fittings will probably work better. My son ordered a straight radiator hose connection so we'll have that on this weekend. Here is another pic of the heater hose clearance, although it's obscured a bit by a hose.



Rick B.