Well,
last week I asked for adive on header gaskets...I bought Earls brand...after I had one side off, I ripped one of the gaksets...I bought some gaskets from the local auto store and put them on...now, instead of one leak, I have several...I tightened them by hand with a ratchet, no tourque wrench (I can't imagine squeezing one in)...did I make them too tight or not tight enough? How do I use a tourque wrench on a 72 vette without a lift? any suggestions?...also i disconnected a vacuum hose that leads out of the intake manifold....idle went way up, I adjusted idle...i think i reconnected it correctly, but I did not have to readjust the idle so what does that mean.


thanx

newbie realtoe

 

I have always had great success using stock exhaust manifold gaskets on headers. The ones on my car have been on there for 10 years, with no probs. Every once in a while i will check the bolts, snug up the ones that loosin' a bit, and rock on.

Keep in mind, a gaskets job is to make up for imperfections in 2 mating surfaces. If there are any places that exceed the limits of the gasket, you will have a leak. I doesnt matter what type of gasket, or what the surfaces are.

Make sure your surfaces are clean and free of any debris. Both of them. Then check to make sure your mating surfaces are reasonably flat. Ensure there are no high or low places that might exceed the crushed value of the gasket.

When it comes to headers, make sure that the flange where the tubes are attached at the head is straight. Over tighting of a header can cause the flange to warp. It is more likely with a really thick, or double gaskets and/or with a cheaper set of headers with a thinner flange. The same is true for the collector gaskets. If the flanges are bent, they will have to be straightened to fix your problem. This will allow for even pressure on the gasket, allowing it to seal, and prevent a blow out of the gasket.

Tighten the bolts evenly, a little at a time...then do it again. Just don't over tighten them to the point that the gasket is pinched in two, or the flange warps. Good and snug, with an average wrench should do it. Then check them a time or two after you drive it. Then, check on them periodically.

Also, make SURE your bolts are not too long. If you can move any part of the header at all with all the bolts tightened down, then there might be a problem with the bolts bottoming out.

As for your vacuum issue, i'm not sure. Depends on what exactly you disconnected. I cant think of many choices on a 72. Vac to the wiper/headlights? Maybe egr?

Your idle increase was due to the lean fuel mixture that was forced by the vacuum leak you created. If you reconnected it back the way you got it, i would think the idle should return to where it was.

You shouldnt have had to adjust the idle stop to get the idle to return. If you did, i would think that the idle mixture would now be incorrect. And you would have some vac controlled component not opperating correctly and/or a rough idle and/or a whistling noise from the leak.

Keep in mind, there are 2 idle stops. High and a low. Depending on the position of the choke. You may have adjusted one, and be running on the other now. Maybe?

Just some thoughts.... hope they help.

 

Thanks you for your input.

Toe