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Should the timing advance after the connector is re-connected?
My timing with the connector unhooked is 6 btdc and after I reconnect the connector it advances to 8* after top dead center.
Plus the smoke is burning my eyes....does that mean it's running rich??
Please help
Im thinking you should have 26* at idle with the est wire hooked up. I just turned on my other laptop so I can look at a datalog to confirm that. Yes, if your eyes are burning its rich. Could be caused by the slow timing. Do you have a laptop ?? Datamaster could be a big help and you can use it 20 times free.
Im thinking you should have 26* at idle with the est wire hooked up. I just turned on my other laptop so I can look at a datalog to confirm that. Yes, if your eyes are burning its rich. Could be caused by the slow timing. Do you have a laptop ?? Datamaster could be a big help and you can use it 20 times free.
26* after top dead center?? It's running lean....
I do have a laptop, how would I connect it to my ecm??
Last edited by 1982CorvetteDude; Jun 14, 2007 at 05:36 PM.
26* after top dead center?? I think it is running rich
I do have a laptop, how would I connect it to my ecm??
26* advance. You need to get a cable. You can buy or make one. I bought one but you can make one for a few $$. There are usually some on ebay. If you go to ttspowersystems.com you can download Datamaster and get some info. Be sure and get the correct version for your ecm.Also try Moates.net for cable info. First you can go to the forum C4, Scan and tune section and read the FAQ at the top. You dont have to pay much attention to the tuning parts but read about datalogging and making the cable. Click on some of the links and check them out. If you get the Datamaster program you can PM me if you have ???s Tunerpro is also free but I have not tried it yet.
26* advance. You need to get a cable. You can buy or make one. I bought one but you can make one for a few $$. There are usually some on ebay. If you go to ttspowersystems.com you can download Datamaster and get some info. Be sure and get the correct version for your ecm.Also try Moates.net for cable info. First you can go to the forum C4, Scan and tune section and read the FAQ at the top. You dont have to pay much attention to the tuning parts but read about datalogging and making the cable. Click on some of the links and check them out. If you get the Datamaster program you can PM me if you have ???s Tunerpro is also free but I have not tried it yet.
If it looks complicated, dont get discouraged. Its not that bad, and once you start using it, its pretty cool to see all the sensor input that your ecm sees, in real time.
One more question, I don't want to sound like an idiot but I went out and tried my scenerio again and it was 6* BTDC (EST unhooked) and it actually moved back to 16* BTDC (EST hooked back up).
One more question, I don't want to sound like an idiot but I went out and tried my scenerio again and it was 6* BTDC (EST unhooked) and it actually moved back to 16* BTDC (EST hooked back up).
I'm def going to do what Spankyellow suggested about datalogging
Yes, the advance curve will be determined by the chip. It can add timing based on the initial setting. You can advance the base timing until you see the knock sensor become active.
Yes, the advance curve will be determined by the chip. It can add timing based on the initial setting. You can advance the base timing until you see the knock sensor become active.
This is a good idea. Advance timing a couple degrees at a time and listen for ping. When you get to that point back it down 2*. If it cranks good and does not ping it should run good.
It would still be good to datalog. Its a great tuning and troubleshooting tool.
This is a good idea. Advance timing a couple degrees at a time and listen for ping. When you get to that point back it down 2*. If it cranks good and does not ping it should run good.
It would still be good to datalog. Its a great tuning and troubleshooting tool.
This is particularly true if you’re running at high altitude. If you have no engine knock under acceleration, but the car “chugs” or “jerks” at cruising speed (light throttle application), you are getting too much vacuum advance on top of the mechanical advance. You may need to change out the vacuum advance diaphragm with an adjustable unit available from aftermarket sources. Adjust these units so that you get the most vacuum advance possible without any “chugging” or “jerking” at cruise speed.
This was taken directly from the Lars tech article on setting ignition timing.....I'm getting these symptoms as well..
How would that apply in my situation with an electronic distributor?