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Shorter Reach Spark Plug

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Old May 31, 2007 | 12:45 PM
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Default Shorter Reach Spark Plug

Am currently running Accel 414S plugs in 73-350 with aluminum heads. The plug threads are actually 1/4" too long, they are 3/4". A comparable non-shorty plug would be Autolite AR2593 or AC Delco 41XL. How do I find plugs that are 1/4" shorter (1/2" long threads)? Don't think there is any advantage to the plugs being too long.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 12:52 PM
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Too long really??? I'm kinda doing the same thing, I have AC R43 something or other which have a 3/4 reach and I have a header interference problem so I ordered that same plug you have. The end of the threads are just about even with the edge of the combustion chamber of both the original ZZ4 heads and the new Brodix heads. I think the only other length is .340 but could be wrong.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 01:17 PM
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Found an NGK Spark Plug chart on line. Going to switch from the recommended B9ES to a B6HS - a 1/4" shorter and a little hotter.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 01:26 PM
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You need the 3/4" threads on most aluminum heads. I went through this whole problem a few months back.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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You should check with your head mfg. Dart recommends autolite AR3933 on all there alum pro 1 heads. Thats 3/4 reach, gasketed. That"s allso a shorty plug.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
You need the 3/4" threads on most aluminum heads. I went through this whole problem a few months back.
I don't doubt it. But, doesn't it seem odd that the plug extends into the combustion chamber, in my case for a 1/4"? The only thing that makes sense is that it moves the spark into the center of the combustion chamber.
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Old May 31, 2007 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST73
I don't doubt it. But, doesn't it seem odd that the plug extends into the combustion chamber, in my case for a 1/4"? The only thing that makes sense is that it moves the spark into the center of the combustion chamber.
Extending the electrode into the combustion chamber is a good thing. It promotes a better overall burn of the fuel. I nearly crapped my pants when I saw how close my electrode was to my .125 domed pistons. I have no more than 1/8th of an inch and thought for sure I was going to have to index the plugs. I had a problem in that I needed a shorty plug (hooker headers) with a non-projected tip and a reach of 3/4" inch. No-one makes a "shorty" plug like this - trust me. I ended up using Autolite's racing series (part# AR3935) and even though they weren't classified as shorty's, they were the exact same length as the Accel shorty's I ordered that hit my pistons (they had an extended tip).

Why do you want to swap plugs?
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Old May 31, 2007 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
Why do you want to swap plugs?
Engine misfiring after a rebuild, the plugs are black, need a slightly hotter plug.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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Heat range may be your problem , but i kinda doubt it. My guess idle transtition slots. Have you tried a steady 60mph cruise for about 10-15 miles shut the engine down, (do not) let it idle then check plug color.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 12:26 PM
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Not sure this is what you are looking for but I will put the info out in case it helps. My 1967 327/300 can use Delco heat ranges from AC 43 (cold) to AC 46 (hot). I generally use 45 but it is very difficult to find AC 45 these days. Most modern versions are R (resistor) and S (extended tip). I looked for an equivalent to AC 45 and with a little help from C2 friends came up with NGK B-4: non-resistor and standard tip. They work very well and just for your note, the reach is 1/2", non-tapered.



The heads are original GM.


Last edited by Paul L; Jun 1, 2007 at 12:52 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST73
Am currently running Accel 414S plugs in 73-350 with aluminum heads
What heads are you running? It does make a difference.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
Extending the electrode into the combustion chamber is a good thing. It promotes a better overall burn of the fuel.
Not if the threaded portion of the plug also extends into the chamber. Carbon can build up on the exposed threads making removal difficult and possibly destroying the threads in the head. Also, the sharp edges of the exposed threads can get hot enough to glow red, causing pre-ignition.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Not if the threaded portion of the plug also extends into the chamber. Carbon can build up on the exposed threads making removal difficult and possibly destroying the threads in the head. Also, the sharp edges of the exposed threads can get hot enough to glow red, causing pre-ignition.
So should 1/2" plugs be used instead of 3/4" on aluminum heads?
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST73
So should 1/2" plugs be used instead of 3/4" on aluminum heads?
It depends on the thread length in the head. I believe aluminum heads have a longer thread length than iron heads do.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
It depends on the thread length in the head. I believe aluminum heads have a longer thread length than iron heads do.
Both my stock ZZ4 alum heads and new Brodix alum heads use 3/4 reach plugs. The threads do not extend into the combustion chamber and should not, as bashcraft said in previous post.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
What heads are you running? It does make a difference.
Once again. Why don't you tell us what head you're running?
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sperkins
Once again. Why don't you tell us what head you're running?
I'm running ProComp heads and the 3/4" plugs do extend 1/4" into the combustion chamber. So I guess I need to switch to 1/2" plugs.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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I am not familiar with aftermarket cylinder heads but here is another look at that NGK spark plug. But surely the best thing to do is seek the advice of the head manufacturer.

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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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It could be a quality problem with the sealing surface cut to low allowing the threads into the quench/combustion area.
Do you have a gasket on the plug ?
3/4" reach calls for a gasket, putting in a 1/2" reach will cause spark efficiently and build up carbon/foul plugs.
Ford in the 60's had the carbon build-up problem from the threads in the quench area and the threads would break off in the head calling for it's removal.
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Old Jun 2, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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Plug does have gasket. Think I found the perfect plug - NGK BP6HS. I'm gapping at .035, does that sound right?
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