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I changed my front calipers and hoses and I am trying to bleed the brakes with a motive products brake bleeder. I get a nice firm pedal until I start it up then it gets mushy. If my master cylinder got empty do I still need to bench bleed it separately or will the pressure bleeder take care of that?
I've got the same issue, and am also using a motive bleeder. This is what I'm going to do wednesday,, bench bleed the M/C,, then put the car on jack stands and get 4 glass bottles and bleeder hoses, then fill the Motive full and open all 4 bleeder valves at once. I figure the air will have no where to hide, then shut them off per the order,, RR, LR... ect. Think it may work, as I've bled them through twice with the sinking pedal returning, but I did run the M/C dry on the change of the calipers. BTW, can your motive hold 15 PSI w/o leaking with the flat adapter on the M/C? Mine was leaking, think I over tightened it and bowed it slightly, but I just got a new one in.
....I get a nice firm pedal until I start it up then it gets mushy......
I assume you have power brakes? I think this is normal, you'll never get the same feel with the engine running as you did with the engine off, if they are power brakes...did the brakes stop the car after all you've done??...also, with the car running and hitting the brakes hard, did the brake lite come on, on the dash? If not, I think you are at the best you're gonna get....
My 2 cents....
Bench bleed is a must-then Tap the Fittings "while the fluid is flowing"-Tap the Fittings-Tap the Fittings-Tap the Fittings-Tap the Fittings-the air clings and hides in the Threads-You dont have to beat them to death just tap them enough to allow the air to move.This is why I use the gravity method-slow and easy-have patience.The Motive will work also but it uses more fluid than I like before I can get around to all the fittings.If you use the tap method with the Motive try not opening the bleeder too far.